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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

water temp gauge wiring help pleaseeee

  • Thread starter Thread starter ryan218
  • Start date Start date Apr 29, 2009

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Apr 29, 2009
#1
  • Apr 29, 2009
  • #1
ive only had this for 5ish months now and never hooked it uo. wired it in last night and it don't work its a ultra lite series. ( elec ) the power for the back light was hooked up. then there was a blue wire. and a black wire left. took the blue to the sending unit ( autometer unit ) and black to a separate ground. is this right or did i mess up a simple wiring job lol
 

LaserSVT

Got FB banned again for saying nards
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
9,389
3,536
233
Apr 29, 2009
#2
  • Apr 29, 2009
  • #2
Its only three wires?
You shoud have a positive with ignition (red wire, could be yellow)
a ground (black)
and a signal (blue)
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Apr 29, 2009
#3
  • Apr 29, 2009
  • #3
LaserSVT said:
Its only three wires?
You shoud have a positive with ignition (red wire, could be yellow)
a ground (black)
and a signal (blue)
Click to expand...

sorry. red and a ground for the back light to it. i have it wired to where when the ignition is turend on the back light comes on. then a blue and a black wire left. i put the blue to the sending unit and black to the dash frame as a ground. it dont work lol.

 

LiquidGT

Member
Oct 8, 2007
368
0
16
Near STL hell
Apr 29, 2009
#4
  • Apr 29, 2009
  • #4
You should have five wires right? Two wires for the light and three for the gauge. Wire the backlight up to something like the AOD shifter light or IP lights.

Then on the gauge part; ground goes to the b-- wire the one that goes to the sending unit-- and find an ignition source for the ignition wire.
 

kpack5982

Yeah, it was pretty stiff, but eventually a buddy
Jul 13, 2005
325
1
19
Granger, IA
Apr 29, 2009
#5
  • Apr 29, 2009
  • #5


http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/1079A.pdf
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Apr 29, 2009
#6
  • Apr 29, 2009
  • #6
problem was the igniton source. got that figured out and it works. runs right under 210 now.
 

Jaswir

Member
Mar 31, 2005
578
0
18
Orlando, FL
Apr 29, 2009
#7
  • Apr 29, 2009
  • #7
thats still high... mine never saw over 200 on the hottest days! Usually ran right at 180 - 190


unless your using the stock 192* t-stat
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Apr 29, 2009
#8
  • Apr 29, 2009
  • #8
Jaswir said:
thats still high... mine never saw over 200 on the hottest days! Usually ran right at 180 - 190


unless your using the stock 192* t-stat
Click to expand...

i am. no matter what brand 180* ive got. ive tried 3 different ones. it doesnt fit into the housing right and causes it to leak.
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Apr 30, 2009
#9
  • Apr 30, 2009
  • #9
try an new housing and get a 180 thermostat in there. 210 is on the hot side, what happens when you get stuck in traffic?
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Apr 30, 2009
#10
  • Apr 30, 2009
  • #10
90lxcoupe said:
try an new housing and get a 180 thermostat in there. 210 is on the hot side, what happens when you get stuck in traffic?
Click to expand...

i sat in traffic for an hour and a half. it never rose above the 210 mark. but yes i agree. i have a explorer thermostat housing i got from a buddy im going to clean up and try again with it. i broke the old housing tightening it down since the ****ty thermostat didnt sit right.
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Apr 30, 2009
#11
  • Apr 30, 2009
  • #11
Might also try the Super Glue trick when putting in the T-stat.

Clean the housing up real nice and make sure it's all dry, then put a dot of Super Glue on either side where the thermostat sits in it (make sure the bleeder valve on the t-stat is toward the top) and let it sit for a minute. This will keep the thermostat from dropping down and getting the edge pinched between the housing and the intake mounting surface. Then slime on some RTV silicone and carefully push your gasket onto the housing, and then let that set up for a little while - this will help the gasket stay in place and not shift around a bunch when you go to stick the housing onto the intake. Then apply your final bead on the other side of the gasket, stick 'er on there, thread in your bolts, cinch it down, fill 'er up, and go watch TV or browse Stangnet for awhile until it all sets up before you go starting it up and driving around.
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Apr 30, 2009
#12
  • Apr 30, 2009
  • #12
Darkwriter77 said:
Might also try the Super Glue trick when putting in the T-stat.

Clean the housing up real nice and make sure it's all dry, then put a dot of Super Glue on either side where the thermostat sits in it (make sure the bleeder valve on the t-stat is toward the top) and let it sit for a minute. This will keep the thermostat from dropping down and getting the edge pinched between the housing and the intake mounting surface. Then slime on some RTV silicone and carefully push your gasket onto the housing, and then let that set up for a little while - this will help the gasket stay in place and not shift around a bunch when you go to stick the housing onto the intake. Then apply your final bead on the other side of the gasket, stick 'er on there, thread in your bolts, cinch it down, fill 'er up, and go watch TV or browse Stangnet for awhile until it all sets up before you go starting it up and driving around.
Click to expand...


thats how i do it. minus the superglue. its the 180* i got are too big for the after market thermostat housing.
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
3,637
8
79
Tucson AZ
May 1, 2009
#13
  • May 1, 2009
  • #13
Darkwriter77 said:
Might also try the Super Glue trick when putting in the T-stat.

Clean the housing up real nice and make sure it's all dry, then put a dot of Super Glue on either side where the thermostat sits in it (make sure the bleeder valve on the t-stat is toward the top) and let it sit for a minute. This will keep the thermostat from dropping down and getting the edge pinched between the housing and the intake mounting surface. Then slime on some RTV silicone and carefully push your gasket onto the housing, and then let that set up for a little while - this will help the gasket stay in place and not shift around a bunch when you go to stick the housing onto the intake. Then apply your final bead on the other side of the gasket, stick 'er on there, thread in your bolts, cinch it down, fill 'er up, and go watch TV or browse Stangnet for awhile until it all sets up before you go starting it up and driving around.
Click to expand...

Why do you need the bleeder valve towards the top? What happens if it's not? I'v never heard of this before. peace




john
 

90lxvert13

Member
Aug 4, 2007
33
0
7
Bristol, CT
May 1, 2009
#14
  • May 1, 2009
  • #14
thats how i do it. minus the superglue. its the 180* i got are too big for the after market thermostat housing.
Click to expand...

I used a motorcraft 180 t-stat with a housing from advance and it fit fine. mine also heats up to just under 210, im going to flush the system this week and see if it changes any thing.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,356
208
114
Ohio
May 2, 2009
#15
  • May 2, 2009
  • #15
Its been a long time since I changed my Thermostat but I want to say that it turned and locked into place in the housing on my car, I used a Motorcraft 180.
 
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