water temp gauge
- Thread starter 5.0DuDe
- Start date
We will assume an elec gauge.
I would put the sender in the stock sender's location (driver side lower intake - front). Relocate your stock sender to the thermostat housing (you can buy an FRPP chrome housing for ~ 25 bucks, or a cast piece from DAP or AZ for 10 bucks).
Seems to me that the dash clock is dimmed, which should mean that the dimmer circuit runs a wire up there. You can use that wire for your gauge's lighting, if you choose. Put a test light on the wire and run the dimmer up and down - you should see the test light dim and brighten as you turn the rheostat.
I dont know what else is on the clock's power circuit, but you might be able to use the key-on power to the clock for your guage (gauge's dont draw hardly anything). You can also source power and/or lighting from behind the the radio/HVAC console.
That is the big stuff I can think of. Good luck.
I would put the sender in the stock sender's location (driver side lower intake - front). Relocate your stock sender to the thermostat housing (you can buy an FRPP chrome housing for ~ 25 bucks, or a cast piece from DAP or AZ for 10 bucks).
Seems to me that the dash clock is dimmed, which should mean that the dimmer circuit runs a wire up there. You can use that wire for your gauge's lighting, if you choose. Put a test light on the wire and run the dimmer up and down - you should see the test light dim and brighten as you turn the rheostat.
I dont know what else is on the clock's power circuit, but you might be able to use the key-on power to the clock for your guage (gauge's dont draw hardly anything). You can also source power and/or lighting from behind the the radio/HVAC console.
That is the big stuff I can think of. Good luck.
As Hissin mentioned, here's the location your gonna use on your lower intake...
I would not recommend the FRPP chrome unit...It flat out leaks...Had nothing but leaks with it for 2 yrs...That freakin thing has grunged the front of my motor with Green coolant slime for 2 yrs....
Definatly going in the garbage this Spring...done screwin with it...
I would not recommend the FRPP chrome unit...It flat out leaks...Had nothing but leaks with it for 2 yrs...That freakin thing has grunged the front of my motor with Green coolant slime for 2 yrs....
WERD on the Chrome Piece.. The cast ones from DAP, etc can be tq'd down really tight, and can be painted. As far as the wiring, mine come through a hole with grommet under the steering wheel created by the alarm installer years ago. Mine sits on the A-pillar.
Good Luck
RC
Good Luck
RC
CManT1914
New Member
I left my stock crap alone, and bought a new waterneck (thermostat housing, where the upper radiator hose connects to) that had a threaded hole in the top. That's where I put my sending unit, then I ran my wire through the grommet in the firewall above the pedals. As for power, I just tapped into my driver side park light in the engine bay. Super easy.
You dont need to hook it up (it has nothing to do with the computer, like the ECT does).5.0DuDe said:
Chris, make sure you keep an eye on your OEM gauge - with the AM gauge's sender located in the t-stat housing, if the stat sticks closed, the gauge will read a LOT cooler than what the actual coolant in the motor is at. That OEM lower-intake-port as about as accurate a location as one can find.
CManT1914
New Member
JT, yea I always am comparing what the two different gauges read. My stock gauge never reads past the "O" in normal though, so I haven't had any problems yet.
