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Weird fault codes

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tugamypuda
  • Start date Start date Aug 21, 2018
T

Tugamypuda

Member
Jul 30, 2018
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8
Fort worth tx
Aug 21, 2018
#1
  • Aug 21, 2018
  • #1
Hey guys I've got an 87 gt mustang. Has random backfire underload. Fuel pressure is good. Just fixed vacuum leak. Was a brake booster. Hooked up an innova 3145 to check for codes. When I first did koer it showed 8 for an 8 cylinder. Today I checked codes again and it showed a 4. Checked again and showed 000. Also had codes 98r for hard fault in fmem mode and code 63r which I cant seem to find. Anyone ever had this code? Thanks in advance.
 

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#2
  • Aug 22, 2018
  • #2
Code 63 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low.

Revised 02-Jul-2009 to update TPS setting procedure & add 10 pin connector layout.

Vref missing (5 volt reference voltage supplied by the computer), bad connections or damaged wiring, TPS sensor failed, TPS sensor way out of adjustment. Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the Orange wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the Orange wire on the EGR or MAP/Baro sensor located on the firewall near the center of the car. If there is +5 volts on the MAP/Baro sensor, but not on the EGR, clean the #2 & #5 pin on the white 10 pin connector. If there is +5 volts on the EGR but not on the TPS, look for bad wiring inside the engine fuel injector harness.

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.


Setting the TPS voltage
You'll need a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job.

Wire colors & functions:
Orange/white = 5 volt VREF from the computer
Dark Green/lt green = TPS output to computer
Black/white = Signal ground from computer

Always use the Dark Green/lt green & Black/white wires to set the TPS base voltage.

Do the test with the ignition switch in the Run position without the engine running.

Use the Orange/white & Black white wires to verify the TPS has the correct 5 volts source from the computer.
Setting the TPS: you'll need a good Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job. Set the TPS voltage at .5- 1.1 range. Because of the variables involved with the tolerances of both computer and DVM, I would shoot for somewhere between .6 and 1.0 volts. Unless you have a Fluke or other high grade DVM, the second digit past the decimal point on cheap DVM’s is probably fantasy.

Since the computer zeros out the TPS voltage every time it powers up, playing with the settings isn't an effective aid to performance or drivability. The main purpose of checking the TPS is to make sure it isn't way out of range and causing problems.

The Orange/White wire is the VREF 5 volts from the computer. You use the Dark Green/Lt green wire (TPS signal) and the Black/White wire (TPS ground) to set the TPS. Use a pair of safety pins to probe the TPS connector from the rear of the connector. You may find it a little difficult to make a good connection, but keep trying. Put the safety pins in the Dark Green/Lt green wire and Black/White wire. Make sure the ignition switch is in the Run position but the engine isn't running.

Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.

When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

The TPS is a variable resistor, much like the volume control knob on a cheap radio. We have all heard them crackle and pop when the volume is adjusted. The TPS sensor has the same problem: wear on the resistor element makes places that create electrical noise. This electrical noise confuses the computer, because it expects to see a smooth increase or decrease as the throttle is opened or closed.

TPS testing: most of the time a failed TPS will set code 23 or 63, but not always. Use either an analog meter or a DVM with an analog bar graph and connect the leads as instructed above. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage with the throttle closed. Slowly open the throttle and watch the voltage increase smoothly, slowly close the throttle and watch the voltage decrease smoothly. If the voltage jumps around and isn’t smooth, the TPS has some worn places in the resistor element. When the throttle is closed, make sure that the voltage is the same as what it was when you started. If it varies more than 10%, the TPS is suspect of being worn in the idle range of its travel.


Code 98 - basic computer internal tests not passed before it started processing the request to dump codes. Do a Key On Engine Off test before starting the engine. Wait until you see the 11 flash before pressing any buttons if you have a hand operated scanner. The computer is operating in Limp mode, so fix any codes it dumps prior to doing anything else.
 
T

Tugamypuda

Member
Jul 30, 2018
36
0
8
Fort worth tx
Aug 22, 2018
#3
  • Aug 22, 2018
  • #3
Yes I had found code 63o and 63c but not 63r. Didn't know if that made a difference. Just to be sure I will check to make sure I've got my 5vref. Thanks.
 
T

Tugamypuda

Member
Jul 30, 2018
36
0
8
Fort worth tx
Aug 23, 2018
#4
  • Aug 23, 2018
  • #4
Ok got my tps recalibrated. No more codes besides left and right smog pump. Only problem now is my random backfire under acceleration. I just bought this thing a month ago. Has been backfiring since I bought it. I know they have been in the engine. Has mild cam and some fancy blue roller rockers. Timing is at 12 degrees. Looks to have a new coil. Has a d on it so I dont know what brand that is. I've done plugs which were gapped at 38. I set them to stock at 54. New cap rotor plugs. Fixed vacuum leak at brake booster. Now holds steady at 18hg. What else should I be checking.
 
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