Weird No Start Issue.

After finishing my head and intake swap I am having starting issues. I just wanted to say that I first followed jrichker's cranks no start checklist verbatim. I also found SBF TEch.com's checklist about testing the ignition coil. Now here is the weird part, when I probe ignition coil's (-) side or green/yellow wire while turning the distributor the voltage will drop to 0 and then go back to 12v; also the fuel pump will cycle (prime) like I turned the key form the off to the run position. The fuel pump also does this when I don't probe the wire too. Is this crazy or what?


Remove the space between SBF and Tech
sbf Tech.com/index.php/topic,588.msg180429.html#msg180429

Remove the space between 351 and windsor
351 winsor.com/joel/Ignition_Systems/tfi2.html

I follow everything on jrichker's cranks no start checklist and everything checked out except maybe the spark at plug which is yellowish.

Cylinder Compression = 150 psi
Fuel pressure = ok
Coil Red/green 12v= ok
Spark at coil = blue spark
TFI pin #4 (ICM Power) 12v = ok
Injectors firing = ok
Injector red wire voltage 12v = ok
Cap & rotor = new
Distributor = new


Spark at plug = is yellowish


Green/yellow wire:

Ok, so i found out that cycling is normal. Liljoe07 at SBF explains it as follows;

"The cycling is normal, when you rotate the dizzy, The Vane rotor inside passes by the Pick up coil, this sends a PIP signal to the ECM, which in turns gives a signal for a injector pulse, so the pump kicks on also, kinda like the Engine is running....Sorta."

I will give you guys an update when I replace the ignition coil tomorrow. If anyone has any other input, feel free.

ID89GT said:

Put a test light on the negative side of the coil and crank the engine over. It should flash

Click to expand...

The light dims, it doesn't go on and off.

The distributor was out 90 degrees. I am an idiot. Someone smack me in the head.