Welding casters to K-member to transport for paint?

Just to be clear, the engine will be out of the car? If not, the load rating of those casters will be marginal. I'd say that with an engine, you want a load rating of at least 1,200 lbs per caster when using two casters like you linked to.

Also, IMHO, it's a much better idea to use the under wheel casters made for pushing cars around garages, and use some 4x4 wood to add height, then use a plate on top of the 4x4 (bolted to the 4x4 wood). then bolt/weld the top plate to the K-Frame. See my post below.

A single wheel per caster will result in a huge bearing load and tire load. IMHO, something that *I* wouldn't trust under my car - even for just painting. But, if you want to use those types of casters that you showed, and the the caster breaks, and your car/frame/body gets destroyed, that's your choice.

Also, if you're having that work done, then you're not scraping by living day to day with what little money you have. So, spend ~$100, get an MM K-frame support brace, and bolt the casters to the brace, and leave the K-frame alone.

Also, regardless of what some "experts" will tell you on this forum, you would never ever want to weld a caster assembly directly. Especially with pneumatic tires. The heat will stress the bearings, the race, and the tire. Again, it may work. But, do you want to risk your car? For me, I'd say no ****ing way!

Last, regardless of what caster arrangement you use, if you weld, then weld a separate plate to the k-frame/Brace and then bolt the casters to the welded plate.

BTW: Good Luck with the resto!

Here are the type of casters that I'd suggest using:

Amazon.com: Vehicle Repositioning Dolly Set - Heavy-Duty Steel with Swivel Casters - Set of Two: Home Improvement

View attachment 200325

The k-frame brace I was referring to:
K-Member Brace, 4 point, 1979-93 Mustang Hardtop [MMKB4-1] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

K-Member Brace, 4 point, 1979-93 Mustang Hardtop
$89.00
* Part # MMKB4-1
* Manufacturer: Maximum Motorsports

Why not put 4 junk tires on it and not worry?

RacEoHolic330 said:

I actually already have the wheel dollies, which I use to push the car around my garage.

Click to expand...

If you already have the wheel dollies, then I'd suggest adding the MM K-frame support that I listed. Plus, it'll help the k-frame - not much for a stock k-frame.

But, if you have the MM support, you can use
TWO 4x4's and the dollies. Make the 4x4s about the same length as the tire to tire width.



I would do the following:

Brace with THREE 3/8" holes.

4x4 #A Use 3/8" rod to go through the 4x4 to the brace. Trim the rod end after the rod is bolted to the 4x4. Use washers.

4x4 #B Press against #A to get location of the nuts. Take down, counter-sink those impressions to allow for the nuts and the 4x4's to sit flush with each other.

Get TEN decking screws (8") that are inserted by a drill and have a hex head. Home Depot has them. Secure the 4x4's to each other.

At the ends of the bottom 4x4, mount the dollies.

That will result in a very safe and stable platform that will be easy to move. Also, it's easy to do, not expensive, and you can get everything you need at Home Depot or Lowes. You already have the dollies.




So, I'm thinking of something like what follows:


As Mustang5L5 said, you have to consider the loads on the wheels as the car body is pushed. Those original casters you referenced are just asking to fold over, break, have bearings crushed, etc.


I think you have a lot of options, especially since you already have the wheel dollies. For now, my best suggestion is to use a 4x4 on top of the wheel dollies. I like two 4x4's for a couple of reasons. They get a better height for the front end, and they offer plenty of support. Using just one 4x4 gets into a number of issues. One is the flaws that are in any single piece of wood. That's why laminates have some benefits verses solid wood.

Good Luck!