well, my motor was ordered today.....

Green 94 5.0

Founding Member
Mar 25, 2002
2,601
12
79
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
CHP 331 Stroker
8.8:1
Production Block
AFR 61cc stud mount 185's
Comp custom grind cam .533/.544 114lsa
4340 forged crank
lightweight i-beam rods
probe srs dished pistons
romac balancer
fidanza flywheel
canton pan
girdle
edelbrock performer rpm (lower port matched to heads)

should have it in 4-6 weeks and the only work that will need to be done is to bolt on the valve covers, water pump, and flywheel. the original motor i was going to go with got way too expensive once i factored in the fuel system upgrades, rear end upgrades, and the tranny. im shooting for about 500whp. shouldnt be too difficult to accomplish.
 
Man, I hate to say it, but I think you're flirting with disaster, with an expensive price tag attached to it. You have a lot of very nice parts going into a cheapo block that's very prone to breakage at that power level.
 
StangGT1995 said:
Man, I hate to say it, but I think you're flirting with disaster, with an expensive price tag attached to it. You have a lot of very nice parts going into a cheapo block that's very prone to breakage at that power level.
I think he should be fine.. Are you going with a Meth kit eventually?


Coud you please Email me with the parts/estimate sheet if you would be so kind?


Thanks and lemme know when it comes in.

RC
 
StangGT1995 said:
Man, I hate to say it, but I think you're flirting with disaster, with an expensive price tag attached to it. You have a lot of very nice parts going into a cheapo block that's very prone to breakage at that power level.
i thought the same thing. that is until every engine builder i spoke with told me not to bother going with a dart block because it wasnt necessary for what i am looking to do with the car. i am planning on a very conservative tune, only about 10psi, and the motor wont see anything above 6k rpm.
 
BlackVert said:
ouch! my balance would be $-6000 if i took that much out.

:hail2:
the price tag did hurt a bit, but considering its only going to take about an hour to bolt on the missing stuff to complete it, i can justify the cost. im sending my eddy lower to chp after tmoss ports it and they are going to even bolt that on for me. there is literally going to be nothing to do to it when it gets here but put it in.
 
Very very cool combo, definately seems well thought out. At 10 PSI I don't think you'll have a problem whatsoever with that goal. I like the choice of cam too, driveability won't be too much of an issue. Are you going to tune it yourself? And also, what kind of gearing are you going to use? With the centrifugal huffer and "large" heads, are you worried about missing out a little down low?

I love the idea of S/Ced 331s, seems like everytime you see one it puts down surprising numbers and has the potential for more.

Adam
 
You should be alright with the stock block. It has a girdle...I know...I know, all the girdle does is keep the pieces together, but my N/A combo puts 406 to the wheels and I shift it at 6800. It is a very similar setup to yours but with higher compression (10.5:1). Just keep the tune nice and keep the boost somewhat steady. Dont let the "I WANT TO GO FASTER" bug bite you and crank the boost, cause then you'll have a $7000 paper weight that wont even hold oil.
 
Black95GTS said:
Very very cool combo, definately seems well thought out. At 10 PSI I don't think you'll have a problem whatsoever with that goal. I like the choice of cam too, driveability won't be too much of an issue. Are you going to tune it yourself? And also, what kind of gearing are you going to use? With the centrifugal huffer and "large" heads, are you worried about missing out a little down low?

I love the idea of S/Ced 331s, seems like everytime you see one it puts down surprising numbers and has the potential for more.

Adam
as far as tuning goes, i have a tweecer r/t. i have been seriously debating selling that for a pms and having it tuned by a pro. i know a decent amount about the tweecer, but im still debating whether i am comfortable with tuning the 331 myself. as far as gearing goes, the car still has the stock 3.27's (used to be an auto). i have been debating a set of 3.55's but wouldnt think of going any steeper than that.
 
SQUEEZE&STROKE said:
You should be alright with the stock block. It has a girdle...I know...I know, all the girdle does is keep the pieces together, but my N/A combo puts 406 to the wheels and I shift it at 6800. It is a very similar setup to yours but with higher compression (10.5:1). Just keep the tune nice and keep the boost somewhat steady. Dont let the "I WANT TO GO FASTER" bug bite you and crank the boost, cause then you'll have a $7000 paper weight that wont even hold oil.
i just want to drive the car and enjoy it for a change. over the last 4 years, it has spent more time in the garage apart than it has on the road. that is 95% of the reason i ordered the motor as complete as i did.
 
SQUEEZE&STROKE said:
3.55's? That seems a bit low for that motor...but if it is just a cruiser...I have 4.30's in mine...but I also pretty much only go to the track.
well, im looking at it from this perspective. with my current setup, 3.27's, nitto 315-35-17 drag radials, and the stock bottom 302 making 394hp & 411lb/ft. i have zero traction in first and a good portion of second. i think putting anything more than 3.55's will make the car useless in first and second. i may even stick with the 3.27's since im not touching the rear until later on.
 
Green 94 5.0 said:
well, im looking at it from this perspective. with my current setup, 3.27's, nitto 315-35-17 drag radials, and the stock bottom 302 making 394hp & 411lb/ft. i have zero traction in first and a good portion of second. i think putting anything more than 3.55's will make the car useless in first and second. i may even stick with the 3.27's since im not touching the rear until later on.
i'm with you on the gears. 3.27s if i were doing it. especially if it's mostly a driver. you'll still be making plenty of power to snap your head back even with 3.27s.

with my current setup, and the fact that it is my daily driver, i'm going back to 3.27s when the funds become available.
 
I agree, I too would stick with the 3.27's. With the kind of power you will be making and the rpm range you are shooting for, there shouldn't be a need for gearing any higher than that.

Nice combo!