Eventually. I don't even care right now. I'm very put down by it all.
They said it's running great but something is buckling under heavy load. I'm not about to pay shop wages for them to figure it out, so I'll do it when I have the mindset for it.
You're more than welcome to come figure it out. I'm just burnt out on working on it. I have been ever since last year. I got to my goal with it (twice) and everything kinda died, lol.
I am picking it up tomorrow morning, so we'll see how she runs.
Ugh. I got a heads up from the tuner this morning on what's going on and I swear I sat here for 10 minutes wondering if I even want to bother going to pick it up.
I got the car this morning, runs good. I've got to call later and talk to the tuner and see what's up. I've got a missing header bolt in which the threadings are messed up so I've got to fix that and tighten it up, that's one problem. He spent a lot of time fixing vacuum leaks, too.
The MAF is a new 90mm SCT Big Air, so it can't be pegged or anything.
Monz-- Can you describe the WOT issue a bit more? Have you taken it up into that range since you got it back? What ignition system are you running and how much boost?
My volt gauge starts dropping as I hit WOT, down to 12V. I think that's a loose ground though because the car feels fine other than looking at that gauge. The stock gauge doesn't drop either, so that's my first tipoff.
Stock ignition. Had an MSD distributor in there last year and it died on me every time the car warmed up.
Boost, we have no idea. We went to dyno it last spring but ran out of fuel delivery and pegged my MAF. We were unable to see how much boost I'm pushing out since we couldn't push the RPMs. So he gave me a "just let me drive it easily and safely" tune and I added the bigger injectors & non-peggable MAF that fall. And NOW, we were unable to find out again because of the current ****. I still have to call and talk to hear him out on what he found out.
When you're hard into it, does the power fall on it's face? I mean... you say it 'feels' good but that your voltage gauge drops to 12V so I'm a little confused.
The power is still there, feels like it wants to be mashed to the floor and rip the highway into shreds! But I see the voltometer dropping a bit and I can't help but let off the throttle, ya know? The stock volt gauge doesn't do the same but that's not exactly a fine example of diagnostic monitoring, either
First thing's first: recover my rear seat w/new leather Picking it up tomorrow morning.
Second, get my pictures taken and do a show at the end of the month - get some enjoyment back into it. THEN once that's out of the way (my main objective at this point, of course), one of my guru friends is going to help me battle those demons and get it running fine.
I also have to retap the header flange that attaches to the Hpipe as some funky-ass situation has stripped the threadings and resulted in a loss of my bolt. :wtf: But that's easy - at first I thought they said it was the flange at the HEAD. That's half of what I was pissed about.
FINALLY I will be back on the dyno once that's all straightened out.
It'll brighten up my outlook on things, anyway. I am feeling better about it all now that I talked to my friend, if anyone can and will fix it, it's him.
I am doubtful because the guy who was doing the work isn't just some dude at a shop, he's someone I've known for years, has done about everything possible to do as far as cars goes, and simply knows them in and out. So if it were something simple he would've made note. He wasn't exactly there to be diagnosing in-depth either, and I didn't wanna pay the shop to do it themselves either. We'll figure it out, it'll just take a while