Well *****

Well yesterday I took my car to the ford dealer to have the charging system fixed and to have it aligned and now I need some help. The service manager called and said "Have you had any problems with the engine because its blown ?" well I pulled it down last night and one of the exh. valves was bent by the piston. It doesnt look like the piston is hurt but I will be pulling the pan tonight and knocking it out to double check it and recheck all of the main & rod bolts. I called ford racing's technical line before I built it about the cam and 1.7 rockers and they said it will be close but should be ok. Obviously I will be rechecking those clearances and may have to switch to 1.6 rockers to keep the lift down some. I wonder also if having the engine sitting for 2 years not turned has weakend the valve springs? My question is if the rod is not the problem what would yall check.
 
Wait a second, you took it in to have an alignment and electrical work, and they found a bent valve? Was there any issues with the engine last time you drove it? Did the tech miss a shift while road testing? What cam is in it?
 
I was very upset when I picked the car up but I cant seem to understand what they could have done as it was not driven and was supposablly just sitting there at idle. I though the problem was going to be from overheating but that doent appear to be the case. I left my book on the car at home so the cam's spec sheet is there but its an Anderson "blower" cam but I'll post its specs once I get home. I am at a loss as to the reason since the engine has around 1 hour on it and I drove it up there yesterday running it up to 5,500 Rpms several times.
 
Shakin66 said:
I wonder also if having the engine sitting for 2 years not turned has weakend the valve springs? My question is if the rod is not the problem what would yall check.

During an episode featuring Jay Leno's garage, he pointed out a motor that was destroyed by a piston and valve issue. He let the car sit too long without running it (I think it was only 6 months). The problem was a "sticky valve" cause by old fuel.
 
I had a 2000 V6 stang and in the amount of time it takes to walk in the house and get something, and walk back out, a valve spring broke. When I came back out I knew right away something was wrong. Luckily it was still under warranty and our dealership sent a flat bed to pick it up, which is about the only good thing I can say about their service dept...
 
Look closely at the rest of the valves/springs and the valve guides

If it happened to one valve, what other damage is there?

BTW: I gave you the link to the water neck temp gauge on the other thread. Just in case you are still interested.

Scott
 
oooh this happened to me once(5 times in a row actually).
i had a machinist put valve guides and hardened seats in. put the heads back on. ran it nicely for about half an hour then stood on it. tick tick tick whach whach whack put put put. pulled the heads and the valve was stuck open, got it out and it was galled all to hell. took it to the machinist had him replace the valve. put the head back on drove it nice for a half hour, then stood on it- sam @#$&%$ thing. after 3 more times of this hapening i took the heads apart comepletely myself and noted when the valves closed they moved sideways a little. scratched my butt some and came to the conclusion the seats wern't aligned with the guide. so i went back to the machinist and bitched him out got him to grind the hell outa the seats to straighten them up. this fixed the problem. so pull your valves and check that they go int the seats perfectly straight. also when the seat to guide alignment is off they will like to stick closed when push closed hard. something else i noticed when the last time i had that happen i babied it for a long time and the valve stuck the first second i got it over 2500rpm. so im assuming as soon as the assembly lube worked its way out is when this happened. how badly bent were your valves. mine got bent badly(20-30 degrees). in the end i developed a slight rod knock when hot in gear at idle.(about 20k on lower)
 
I am replacing the springs and retainers and will be checking all of the valves as I pull them out. I was just way over the springs limit with my lift so it was like you said a matter of time until it got hot and bound up. I will be researching the new ford racing part numbers this am before I order them. Oh and yes I got the link on that temp gauge, Thanks.