Went to the strip tonight.

steel1212 · Jun 25, 2005

Went to the strip tonight need suggestions.

Track temps where 130degrees according to the tower, 95 degree air temps

Here is the first run: didn't lower psi in tires, only 3rd ever pass at strip
reaction:1.131
60 foot:2.543
300foot:6.917
1/8 mile:10.458
1/8 mile mph: 71.151
1/4 mile: 15.889
1/4 mile mph: 87.201

Second run: Still didn't lower tires but was more comfortable, read: less nervous
reaction:.765
60 foot:2.081
300foot:6.084
1/8 mile:9.396
1/8 mile mph:75.422
1/4 mile: 14.601
1/4 mile mph: 94.459

Third run: Lowered bfg drs down to 25psi
reaction:.731
60 foot:2.066
300foot:6.035
1/8 mile:9.310
1/8 mile mph:75.987
1/4 mile: 14.495
1/4 mile mph: 94.617

I know my 60 foot is terrible but the track was aweful slick due to the heat and I haven't figured out what rpm to leave the line at. I'm hoping to put some slicks on for the next trip.

Shift point was 5500 rpms, according to desk top dyno thats my peak hp.

Any suggestions? Also I don't have the 351 DOOE's on yet, the machine shop didn't get them done in time. So they will be on for the next trip.

iskwezm · Jun 25, 2005

How was your traction??BFG's can go down to 15-20psi.

steel1212 · Jun 25, 2005

I wasn't leaving the line hard yet as this was only the 2nd ever drag strip trip I've made and I don't know what it will handle quite yet. It was also so dang hot I didn't want to keep running it.

As for traction it was holding what I was throwing at it and I think the last one I left at 2k. I couldn't tell if I was spinning if it was it wasn't much. But like I said I didn't have enough runs to keep going up the rpms and I don't think the track would hold much more.

steel1212 · Jun 25, 2005

Never mind figured it out.

Pbum5 · Jun 26, 2005

Looks like you improved with every pass. That’s great. Your ET’s will improve as the temp cools..

You can over-inflate your front tires by 5 to 10psi. It helps lower rolling resistance. Just lower them back down when you drive home.

You should also upgrade to a Dual Reservoir MC. It’s a cheap upgrade.
You don’t want to have a break failure at the end of a run!!!

steel1212 · Jun 26, 2005

Yeah, I'm going to do the duel master when I get 4 wheel discs.

steel1212 · Jun 27, 2005

I need suggestions??

on how to improve

thehueypilot · Jun 27, 2005

steel1212 said:
on how to improve

I would not put too much stock into the readings of the "Desk Top Dyno". It said I should be running in to 7.20's and thats being conservative. I shift mine at 6k and it still is pulling. I would think you could shift higher than 5.5k. Tires make a big difference at the track.

steel1212 · Jun 27, 2005

Well I think my engine pretty much stops pulling at 6k and so I had the shift light set at 5.5 just to be safe. I also had a 6400 pill so I if I tried to shift at 6k my limiter would kick in. I'm not practised enough yet to get it shifted. This was only my second time.

Yeah, hopefully I'll have slicks, and the 351 heads on before the next trip. I also hope that its cooler. I think the temps and little bit better driving I could have gotten into the high 13s or at least 14.1s. So hopefully I won't pick up a traction problem with the new heads that the slicks can't handle, I still don't have cal trac yet.

SoCalCruising · Jun 27, 2005

Power is in the heads. What are you having done to teh D0OEs? Porting? 3-angle valve job? Larger valves?

MustangMatt1966 · Jun 27, 2005

when the track is hot like that, i have the exact same traction problem with my dumb cooper cobra tires lol so when i cant hook up, i leave the line at like 3000 and smoke them through 3rd gear just to see how long i can do a burn out lol..so far my best is like 100 feet or so haha....maybe i should get slicks

steel1212 · Jun 27, 2005

THe reason I went with the Dooe heads is that I'm afraid I'll have valve clearance problems with anything bigger. I have flat tops with no reliefs. They are getting cleaned, a valve job, putting screw in studs and magnum roller rockers will go on. If they help me now get down into the low 13s I'll have them ported and intake matched this winter. My local machine shop does a ton of work for high dollar racers and he said he was to backed up to take on anymore port/polishing jobs until it slows down this winter.

steel1212 · Jun 27, 2005

I know this is asking a lot but do you think with the DooE heads being pretty much stock other than the valve job and magnum roller tipped rockers, a set of 26x10x15 mickey slicks and maybe some cal tracks will get me into the 12s? I don't care if I'm at 12.99 I just want to be in the 12s.

SoCalCruising · Jun 27, 2005

My opinion is "no", not without work to the heads. Of the work you mentioned, get a 3-angle valve job if you plan to keep these valves. That is, if you are not planning on larger valves this winter, then you won't be wasting money if you have it done now. This will marginally improve flow.

I hope you prove me wrong.

steel1212 · Jun 27, 2005

I'm pretty much doubting it myself but there is a lot of room for driver improvement and the temps where ungodly that night. I hopeing with better weather and a little better driving on my part I can get close to 13s with just that. Down to the 12s will be another story.

'69Stang · Jun 28, 2005

I hate to say it but I think those D00E heads aren't a great investment. You should not have any piston to valve issues with that cam. I ran a 230/235 @ .050 duration cam with no problems. A set of AFR 165's is the way to go. I believ they are 1.90 or 1.94 valves.

steel1212 · Jun 28, 2005

The reason I went with the DooE heads is that my next engine will be built with more research involve and therefore will be able to put the 185s on there. The DOOE are ending up being more expensive than what I had planned anyway but what is done is done now so I'm going to use the things on this engine.

If the heads, slicks and cal tracks can't get me into the 12s then I'll have to settle for what it doesn until I can afford another rebuild....that will be after the body work next year.

mustangdave · Jun 28, 2005

Stock heads usually don't make power past 5,000 r.p.m.'s, even with an aftermarket cam. You might go faster if you shift earlier. Just because the factory puts a 6,000 r.p.m. redline on the tach doesn't mean the car will make power to that point. Until the 4.6 mod motor came out, I don't think there was a small block Ford made whose power was still climbing after 5,000 r.p.m.(except maybe the Boss 302).

steel1212 · Jun 28, 2005

Well I just went and picked up my heads at the shop, untouched. He was wanting to charge me 800$ on these to:clean/check for cracks, put in hardened valve seats, screw in 3/8 studs and guide plates. I think thats a little to expensive for a rebuilt head?

12sec67 · Jun 28, 2005

are you disconnecting your front sway bar when going to the track? also, hate to tell you this but if you want a drag car then you shoudn't have done the upper a-arm drop.

but the front sway bar disconnected will still help out!

Went to the strip tonight.

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My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

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