88 hatch lx dropped 2 in...............well i just got back from the byron dragstrip and the timeslip was 13.7 at 99.7 with a 2.1 60 ft- (keep in mind the motor was barely broke in and i wheel hopped all the way through 1st) -5-speed--the motor has 4000 miles on it---9.8:1 compression-- its a 351W bored and stroked to a 377 / f-303 cam/ forged internals and at the time i had a performer rpm intake with 24 lb injectors and 3.73 rear end. and i have stock heads with f-303 matching valve springs-----i was just wondering what heads would match my combo (by the way it will have a weiand stealth intake and a 650 demon instead of fuel injection) and with the new heads, are low 13s possible?
went to the track with my new motor! 377
- Thread starter 85stangt
- Start date
maverick0716
Founding Member
What are the new heads gonna be? Low 13's should be easily achieveable. You should actually be low 13's already, but maybe thats because it's not completely broken in....I dunno
NYC LSC
Founding Member
yeah....you have the bottom end but nothing else. Those heads are so SMALL for that motor. And the intake is ok...but not really the best for a 351w. Also, could go bigger then the f303, inother words there is ALOT of room, you can stay with the f303 no problems, but get a set of heads on thee and id go with a 750 instead of a 650, might not be big enouhg, should be easy 12's
Jason 302
10 Year Member
Yea, a 377 breathing good should get you 11's. 4000 miles it should be broken in pretty well. My 306 has about 2500 (i have it in my garage) and turns over a lot easier than when I built it. I think some AFR 185's would be a good choice. Why are you going carb? I would just get some 30lb-hr once you get the heads but that's me. I would say the combo you plan on should very easily get 11's, with slicks and a good launch. I plan on mid 12's once I slap my 165's on and spring gets here.
EMW150
Founding Member
Heads and cam and you won't believe the difference. The F cam is a decent 302 cam but for a 377 I'd be looking for something in at least the 240/250 range @.050 with lift in the high .500s.
Skoobie
Damn...Tyler65's hot!
Yeah man just get some nice heads and some traction your set for 11's. Hell Im running a standard GT40 setup on a 302 and Im almost to the mid 12's on a stock bottom end. You've got a lot to look forward too 
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
yeah, i was hoping for low 13s to mid 13s as is--the heads r probably choking it up a lot more than i originally thought--afr 185s sound like a good choice to me to-and if i remember correctly, theres not a piston to valve clearance problem like some others out there, uhh and im pretty sure the F-303 has 280 degrees of duration and .512 lift plus i have 1.7 rr(which increases lift and duration slightly) --so that powerband should be good till about 6200- maybe ill go with a single plane air gap intake instead of the stealth--and good call on the 750, thats true when i buy the heads im probably going to have a lot of extra airflow--sounds good! this combo is making more and more sense! if anyone has any other suggestions im up for em
Hissing Cobra
Founding Member
Do you have to pass emissions? If so, you're probably better off to stay with the fuel injection and add bigger injectors. If not, then the carburetor setup will work well. Those A.F.R. heads will work wonders with either combination.
If you want to use the carburetor setup, combine those heads with a Victor Jr. single plane intake and the aforementioned 750 cfm carb. You'll be surprised with the results.
Your combination has the potential to run in the 11's! Remember, it's not just the engine that makes it go fast! What kind of exhuast/suspension/gears are you using? They play a major role in creating a strip terror!
If you want to use the carburetor setup, combine those heads with a Victor Jr. single plane intake and the aforementioned 750 cfm carb. You'll be surprised with the results.
Your combination has the potential to run in the 11's! Remember, it's not just the engine that makes it go fast! What kind of exhuast/suspension/gears are you using? They play a major role in creating a strip terror!
Time to tune, tune tune. What is your total timing, fuel pressure and what do your plugs look like immediately after a run?
How much and what type of fuel in the car? What size exhaust?
I agree that the heads are holding you back, but there might be some left without spending any money!
How much and what type of fuel in the car? What size exhaust?
I agree that the heads are holding you back, but there might be some left without spending any money!
PhLoBuS
New Member
no emmissions, so thats a good thing, basically im going to carbueration because i like the mechanical feel and sound it has-but more importantly i did do a plug check on it after about a month of running and they looked fairly good very light tan--almost white, then i put them back in and checked them when i got home from the strip, well this time they were white(almost like baby powder white) so that was it I immediately tore the fuel injection off and have been waiting for a carb set up since--after all lean is mean ...right now i dont have the time or patience to screw around with F.I.--
*my fuel pressure is probably going to be set at 7 or 7.5 psi
*i might have to leave the timing at base timing with no advance because the electronic ignition will not be functioning with the carbuerator --ill probably set it at 25-30 degrees total --and maybe ill take out my cam and re-install it 4 degrees advanced now that its broken in
*i have steeda 4130 sub frame connectors and off-brand lower control arms and 90/10 shocks and as stated previously 3.73 cogs with nitto 555s on the rear---- ill post again when i get everything worked out and as usual thanx again stangnet for the helpful advice
*my fuel pressure is probably going to be set at 7 or 7.5 psi
*i might have to leave the timing at base timing with no advance because the electronic ignition will not be functioning with the carbuerator --ill probably set it at 25-30 degrees total --and maybe ill take out my cam and re-install it 4 degrees advanced now that its broken in
*i have steeda 4130 sub frame connectors and off-brand lower control arms and 90/10 shocks and as stated previously 3.73 cogs with nitto 555s on the rear---- ill post again when i get everything worked out and as usual thanx again stangnet for the helpful advice
5.0 HOtrain
Founding Member
EMW150 said:
What EMW said. FWIW, duration on the "F" cam @.05 is 226/226, the cam in my 418 @.05 is 252/262 with lift at .576/.576. What are you running for exhaust? What does you're fuel system consist of? I would try a set of victor jr heads, victor jr intake, 750 carb, and at least 1 3/4 long tubes and 3" exhaust. Just for comparison the 418 in my 3300lb lx wheel hopped through first, cut a 1.685 short time on dr's, and ran 126.66mph on the second and last pass I made this year.
mike.
5.0 HOtrain
Founding Member
85stangt said:
No reason with the right parts low 11's arent in you're grasp. If you can swap heads, try to get the compression into the 10.5-11:1 range. My 418 is 11.25:1 and runs on pump gas n/p.
mike.
Hissing Cobra
Founding Member
I agree, my cam has .560 lift and I run AFR 185's with a compression ratio of 10:8:1 in my little 306. With very little seat time at the track, I've run a best of 12.88 @ 110. It runs fine on 93 octane. I also have 1-3/4 inch longtubes but with 2.5 inch exhaust. You should DEFINITELY be in the 11's if you maximize this combo.
5.0 HOtrain
Founding Member
Hissing Cobra said:
I saw you're car at the track the day I went down 10/17. Didnt get to see you run though, sweet looking car
IMO your biggest concern is low MPH. You are only at 99 mph. Advancing the cam may just take some more of that low MPH away. You might hit the sweet spot. Time will tell.
I would check the timing with a dial timing light and make sure you have enough fuel at the top end. Unless the heads are holding you back that badly.
Before I tuned my car the first full pass I ran was like a 12.70 at 110. Tuning and tweaking netted me a full second and 7 mph.
I would check the timing with a dial timing light and make sure you have enough fuel at the top end. Unless the heads are holding you back that badly.
Before I tuned my car the first full pass I ran was like a 12.70 at 110. Tuning and tweaking netted me a full second and 7 mph.
Hissing Cobra
Founding Member
5.0 HOtrain said:I saw you're car at the track the day I went down 10/17. Didnt get to see you run though, sweet looking car
Thanks!
'85stangt, if you switch over to the complete MSD ignition (distributor, 6AL ignition, and Blaster coil, you'll be able to run advance on the timing. Your fuel pressure set at 7 psi should be good. I run mine there and with both carburetors, I have no problems. Good luck!
85stangt said:
A white plug means nothing here's a link to plug reading
http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html
To read the plug right, you should do a WOT run an check the plugs right after. That will tell you if the mixture is to rich or lean, an the porcalin still will have nothing to do with telling if it's running rich or lean.
Similar threads
- Locked