wet or dry Nitrous.

[Guero]

Well im gonna by my own Nitrous whats the differnce between dry and wet systems? which one is safer?

 

[King Cobra 22]

Well im gonna by my own Nitrous whats the differnce between dry and wet systems? which one is safer?

Dry is when just nitrous is sprayed in the intake.Wet is when nitrous and fuel is sprayed.

As far as which is safer. IMO there is no which one is safer. They can both be safe if used right with the proper supporting mods and they both can be a disaster to your motor if not used properly.

If you do a search there is a bunch of topics on wet vs. dry along with a bunch of useful info.

 

[Labora]

Dry is when just nitrous is sprayed in the intake.Wet is when nitrous and fuel is sprayed.

As far as which is safer. IMO there is no which one is safer. They can both be safe if used right with the proper supporting mods and they both can be a disaster to your motor if not used properly.

If you do a search there is a bunch of topics on wet vs. dry along with a bunch of useful info.

IMO the dry kit is safer. No chance of fuel puddleing where it shouldn't and having a nitrous backfire.

Now of course either can cause problems if they aren't used correctly and nitrous is nothing to mess with if you don't know how to use it.

If you want a really safe kit, I would get a dry kit, with a bigger fuel pump to back it up, and of course at the very least a WOT switch if not that AND a window switch. (of course you need to do the other stuff colder range plugs, retard the timing, etc.)

 

[blksn955.o]

with a window switch set to start the n2o at 3k rpm you will not have a puddle issue with a wet kit with a shot under 200.

The big, big issue with the n2o is if you hit the rev. limiter. On the efi mustang the eec shuts off the fuel...with a n2o kit running that = big arse boom. The window switch is important here as well as it shuts off the n2o (if you set it below the rev. limit) before you hit the rev. limit.

With a wet kit it is less strain on the inj. so you can run whatever inj. you need for your N/A setup and as long as they are within the BSFC you will be fine.

A dry kit will put a bit of extra strain on your inj. as they now have to supply the extra fuel to the engine that the n2o needs to not go super lean. You WILL or SHOULD upgrade to a larger inj. than needed for a N/A engine as when spraying the n2o you WILL need to make sure your inj. can supply the needed fuel.

Either way a window switch, bigger or in-line fuel pump, retard 2* of timing for every 50hp worth of n2o you use, and run at least 1 range colder plug with any hp level over 100 and above. Also do not leave out the need for an ign. upgrade a power adder of any kind will find and show you a weak ing. system.

 

[nmcgrawj]

IMO the dry kit is safer. No chance of fuel puddleing where it shouldn't and having a nitrous backfire.

Now of course either can cause problems if they aren't used correctly and nitrous is nothing to mess with if you don't know how to use it.

If you want a really safe kit, I would get a dry kit, with a bigger fuel pump to back it up, and of course at the very least a WOT switch if not that AND a window switch. (of course you need to do the other stuff colder range plugs, retard the timing, etc.)

IMO the window switch is a must...unless u remember to activate it above 3k everytime.

 

[Swarzkopf]

The big, big issue with the n2o is if you hit the rev. limiter. On the efi mustang the eec shuts off the fuel...with a n2o kit running that = big arse boom. The window switch is important here as well as it shuts off the n2o (if you set it below the rev. limit) before you hit the rev. limit.

Unless you have an AODE like me...the AODE computers pull timing during shifts.

I've CRUSHED the rev limiter between first and second on a 125 shot several times and my car seems to be okay.

IMO the dry kit is safer. No chance of fuel puddleing where it shouldn't and having a nitrous backfire.

Now of course either can cause problems if they aren't used correctly and nitrous is nothing to mess with if you don't know how to use it.

If you want a really safe kit, I would get a dry kit, with a bigger fuel pump to back it up, and of course at the very least a WOT switch if not that AND a window switch. (of course you need to do the other stuff colder range plugs, retard the timing, etc.)

This man speaks the truth! I agree 100%.

 

[nmcgrawj]

Unless you have an AODE like me...the AODE computers pull timing during shifts.

I've CRUSHED the rev limiter between first and second on a 125 shot several times and my car seems to be okay.



This man speaks the truth! I agree 100%.

ALL of our computers pull timing between shifts...unless with a 5-speed u do not let off the gas at all.

I would consider yourself lucky if u crushed the stock rev limiter that pulls fuel...thats not something i would make habit of. DEFINATELY get a window switch and IMO a aftermarket ignition that pulls spark to limit the revs.

 

[bimmertech]

ALL of our computers pull timing between shifts...unless with a 5-speed u do not let off the gas at all.

I would consider yourself lucky if u crushed the stock rev limiter that pulls fuel...thats not something i would make habit of. DEFINATELY get a window switch and IMO a aftermarket ignition that pulls spark to limit the revs.

i say window swtich and no rev limiter. i have seen bad things by any style of rev limiter, especially the soft touch on an msd box. the 3 motors i have personally see blow all let loose on the msd rev limiter.

the msd will cut out certain cylinders then reignite the nex go around, this leaves a whole lot of gas and oxygen in the exhaust to backfire and go boom.

again this is just my experiences, i am sure there will be an internet expert along shortly to say i'm wrong.

 

[Methodical]

i say window swtich and no rev limiter. i have seen bad things by any style of rev limiter, especially the soft touch on an msd box. the 3 motors i have personally see blow all let loose on the msd rev limiter.

the msd will cut out certain cylinders then reignite the nex go around, this leaves a whole lot of gas and oxygen in the exhaust to backfire and go boom.

again this is just my experiences, i am sure there will be an internet expert along shortly to say i'm wrong.

Tell me more - you've sparked my interest because I was thinking somewhat like this. I plan to get a dry kit. I currently have the MSD6al and was wondering if I should change to the MSD box that automatically retards timing while on the juice. I have the TwEECer and have removed the rev limits so no problem with that.

This is what I want while running the dry kit. With the TwEECer I have the tune set for NA but I want to be able to hit the nitrous at anytime without having to switch to a Nitrous tune. So I'm thinking that if I have the MSD box that retards timing I can do this.

Basically what I am saying is I want it in NA full time and if for some reason I need or want to use Nitrous I can just go for it without switching tunes - may not have time (see what I mean)

Also, it sounds like you do not recommend the WOT switch but a window switch - which I understand can be set to come on at a set rpm and go off at a set rpm.

Thanks
Al

 

[bimmertech]

Tell me more - you've sparked my interest because I was thinking somewhat like this. I plan to get a dry kit. I currently have the MSD6al and was wondering if I should change to the MSD box that automatically retards timing while on the juice. I have the TwEECer and have removed the rev limits so no problem with that.

This is what I want while running the dry kit. With the TwEECer I have the tune set for NA but I want to be able to hit the nitrous at anytime without having to switch to a Nitrous tune. So I'm thinking that if I have the MSD box that retards timing I can do this.

Basically what I am saying is I want it in NA full time and if for some reason I need or want to use Nitrous I can just go for it without switching tunes - may not have time (see what I mean)

Also, it sounds like you do not recommend the WOT switch but a window switch - which I understand can be set to come on at a set rpm and go off at a set rpm.

Thanks
Al

first off the window switch does not replace the wot switch, they work together. you still need a switch, or box as in the zex kit, to trigger your solenoids. the window switch just "regulates" that signal to the solenoids, turning them on and off at the specified intervals.

as far as not having to switch tunes, there are a couple ways. one get an ignition box with controlable ignition retard. or you could look into a methanol injection kit, i have no personal experience with meth inj on nitrous but i hope to soon have some with a blower.

i would keep your 6al and the tweecer tune you have and get a meth inj kit. it will allow you to run full timing on your max shot. http://snowperformance.net

 

[Methodical]

first off the window switch does not replace the wot switch, they work together. you still need a switch, or box as in the zex kit, to trigger your solenoids. the window switch just "regulates" that signal to the solenoids, turning them on and off at the specified intervals.

as far as not having to switch tunes, there are a couple ways. one get an ignition box with controlable ignition retard. or you could look into a methanol injection kit, i have no personal experience with meth inj on nitrous but i hope to soon have some with a blower.

i would keep your 6al and the tweecer tune you have and get a meth inj kit. it will allow you to run full timing on your max shot. http://snowperformance.net

Thanks

 

[Swarzkopf]

Eh, I'm not looking to hit the rev limiter obviously, but like I've said, it's happened on more than a few occasions and been fine.

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

The ZEX kits are really nice too, they take almost all of the guess work out of nitros...

 

[deion82]

I've never ran a dry kit but if you follow instructions and use the safety devices, window switch, low fuel cut out. etc. A wet kit is flawless. I've been running a 150 hp nx kit for 3 years on my stock 5.0 94' mustang with 130,000 miles and not one problem with it.