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What 351W Block?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 90mustangGT
  • Start date Start date Oct 31, 2004

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
17
89
Dallas, GA
Oct 31, 2004
#1
  • Oct 31, 2004
  • #1
I am considering a 351W N/A stroker combo. I have a few Questions:

What are the best blocks and what are the advantages of those blocks?

Are there any bad years to stay away from and what's so bad about them?

I am planning on a roller cam and I know that not all are roller blocks, how hard is it to convert them to roller?

Should I just look in salvage yards or is there a retailer?

What is a reasonable price?

Input is apreciated, please don't let me make a mistake.
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
6,819
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New York
Nov 1, 2004
#2
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #2
69-74 blocks are the best production years. Only down fall is they are not a 1 piece rear main and you need $400 link bar lifters to run a good roller cam. How much power are you looking to make? Trust me I researched this too and it gets ungodly expensive to build a 351 based stroker. You will more than likely need a cowl hood, so theres another $800 for hood + paint. I'm looking into boost now
 

moonenn3186

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Jan 9, 2002
233
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Dubuque, Iowa
Nov 1, 2004
#3
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #3
The 69-70 blocks have a slightly lower deck height - so you might want to look for a block with the code D1 or D4 (71-74). The 94 blocks were the first roller cam blocks.

You can run a roller w/o link bars by simply using the 5.0 spider and lifters w/ a small base circle roller cam - any cam company can do any of their cams in the small base circle, just ask - if rarely costs anymore.

As far as the 2 piece rear main seal - its only a problem if you don't know how to install it. Read some directions and take your time - they can last 100k w/o issue.

Look around junk yards - you could buy a new one from FORD for a pretty reasonable price, but the 100 price tag of a rebuidable core is nice. You can also reuse lots of the stuff. I used a setup from a 76 T-turd. It had a 74 block and the football rods (it was a towing package Canadian car - also had a 9" posi 3.0 geared rear end). The date code is in the lifter valley - just pull the intake. If you do buy a 69-70 try and ger the whole engine becaus ethe heads are the best factory stockers around. Also make sure if you have a 69-70 to let the engine builder and the piston mfgr know you deck height is only 9.480".

Hope it helps
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Nov 1, 2004
#4
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #4
69-70 are 9.48" deck height, 71-74 are 9.50" and these are all thick wall blocks. Don't be worried about the 2 piece seal, if done correctly they will last a long time, you just have to know how to install them right.

If you go soild roller cam you can get the linked lifters for $270, they are only $470 if you go Hyd roller.

Small base circle cams are JUNK, you are very limited to what you can run as far as size and lobe.

The later model blocks will split just like a 302, right up the middle however they are a tad stronger.
 
D

dkhl

New Member
Aug 22, 2004
101
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0
Nov 1, 2004
#5
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #5
If you got the cash, you can go for a DSS 351 Longblock. The block is made from Level 20 CNC which DSS claims to be the strongest production block available.

Then you can go for some real horsepower by adding a 408 stroker kit to the 351 and that will more than likely tear anything on the road, which will include LS1's, 5.0's and most other vehicles.

OT: Dumb question, but can you supercharge a 408 stroker motor?
 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member
Oct 27, 2003
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Tampa Florida....USF!!!
Nov 1, 2004
#6
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #6
How much powere do the lightning blocks handle?
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Nov 1, 2004
#7
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #7
The Level "xx" blocks make me laugh.....

Yes they are supposed to be machined to take away the stree points etc, but they will still split right up the middle like a stock block. The late model blocks are weak through the mains and lifter valley, no real way to add a lot of strength there.

I've seen blocks 75+ split with 600RWHP, I have seen/heard of 69-74 taking 900RWHP...how long is the question. Get a lil greedy and BOOM!
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Nov 1, 2004
#8
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #8
BlueOvalStangGT said:
How much powere do the lightning blocks handle?
Click to expand...

The Lightning blocks are just like all the other late model 351W rollers, after 550-600HP you are taking chances. Ask onefaststang he'll show you the proof.

If you are planning on making big power and want it to take some abuse and last you need to really think about a aftermarket block, be it a SVO, DART or DART Sportsman.
 

5.0 HOtrain

Founding Member
May 20, 2001
2,247
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47
New Hampshire
Nov 1, 2004
#9
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #9
I run a 69' block with my 418, #'s in sig. I will go into combo details if you are interested. Pump gas motor too.
mike.
 
M

mustangman33

Member
Mar 13, 2004
262
0
16
Chicago, IL
Nov 1, 2004
#10
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #10
Rick 91GT said:
The Lightning blocks are just like all the other late model 351W rollers, after 550-600HP you are taking chances. Ask onefaststang he'll show you the proof.

If you are planning on making big power and want it to take some abuse and last you need to really think about a aftermarket block, be it a SVO, DART or DART Sportsman.
Click to expand...


agreed, even an older block 69-74 can't handle a whole lot of power, I mean a 351 should be able to hold around 650hp safely, not rwhp, these are still passenger car motors, so they were not built to handle alot of power, if you want more than that, a dart block is my suggestion.
 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member
Oct 27, 2003
2,849
0
46
Tampa Florida....USF!!!
Nov 1, 2004
#11
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #11
Ok then next question. If a N/A 351 can make 350 hp easy, how much can it make with a 125 shot or 12 #'s of boost? I can bolt my blower right onto the 351 right?
 
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