The trouble with the older mechaincal linkage is wear in all the parts involved. This includes the pedal assembly wearing out the support bushing and into the steel support. This is a part often overlooked as it's up inside the dash, it has pot metal bushings that wear out over time. Make sure all the parts involved are fresh and tight.
I'm sorry, i forgot to mention this is a T45 with cable clutch
I don't see where this would make a significant difference.
It seems strange that a release bearing would be intended to be constantly spinning. I would expect that to invite bearing failure.
You mean like this?
I don't see where this would make a significant difference.
It seems strange that a release bearing would be intended to be constantly spinning. I would expect that to invite bearing failure.
My first 67 I had back in the 80's was worse than thatIt was worn down at least an inch into the pedal support on the clutch pedal side.
The best way to prevent recurrence of this failure is installation of a roller bearing kit. You have to modify them, though, they don't fit unless you discard the wavy washers and grind down the thick reinforcing washers. The results are dramatic, though.
I would think so too...its just what i read though(although by the very definition bearings of other types constantly spin...though they re different types), I have also read free play of .050(not sure how I can measure that) I do have a small amount of free play after grinding down the pedal stop and more cable adjustment though...but I just cant tell with a non running car if the engagement is correct...I suppose I could always jump the starter with the car in gear and clutch depressed to see if it moves...but its a kinda dangerous way of testing clutch engagement
as for the pedal assembly...I will be upgrading to roller or ball bearing soon simly because I melted the nylon bushing thing in there when modifying the clutch pedal for the steeda quadrant
I simply adjust the fork up until it is barely touching the fingers on the pressure plate and back off maybe a 1/4 turn on the adjusting nut. I don't like to preload the fingers, just a little bit of contact and the throw will do the rest.
Do not check engagement on the ground. Put the rear of the car on jackstands then check for movement when the pedal is depressed, give it a little rpms and observe.
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