what amount of clutch fork movement needed to engage clutch?

[wicked93gs]

well, I used a steeda quadrant(82-04) and kit..but due to limited space and not quite ideal mounting height I think the arc is incorrect and not pulling enough to engage the clutch...so I will go with the mustang steve quadrant kit...

 

[D.Hearne]

What D. Hearne pointed out is correct, my clutch is getting a little over an inch, around 1 1/4" of throw to disengage. I believe the T-45 is very similar, although I am not for sure on the location of the pivot on a T-45. If you can't turn the driveshaft with the pedal depressed then the clutch is not disengaging all the way. DO NOT go hydraulic unless you absolutely have to. I would have gone cable if there was a decent setup for a 69, hydraulics are great when they work, but I can't even begin to explain how much of my hair I ripped out getting it all setup properly so the air would rise to the top, and then the bleeding process to top it off took me hours. Maybe it's personal preference but I will take anything that is mechanical before electric or hydraulic because I can actually see what is going on and tweak it as needed. With a 66 the mustangsteve setup can't be beat. Take a look at it and make sure you won't have contact issues with your exhaust. If it will clear everything via straight routing, then get the car going and troubleshoot the clutch with the car running, you shouldn't have issues that would require you to rip out the system with a cable.

I've went thru the same hell using the McCleod hydro T/O bearing in my 89 Ranger with the Toploader 4 speed. Once you work the kinks out it's very reliable. I don't know if this will help you, but I extended the bleeder line up to the back of the intake manifold, it just made things easier when I did have to bleed the system. No more laying on the floor getting fluid squirted all over you. It's been several years since I had the thing apart. That's how reliable it can be. But it IS a bitch to bleed.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

I've went thru the same hell using the McCleod hydro T/O bearing in my 89 Ranger with the Toploader 4 speed. Once you work the kinks out it's very reliable. I don't know if this will help you, but I extended the bleeder line up to the back of the intake manifold, it just made things easier when I did have to bleed the system. No more laying on the floor getting fluid squirted all over you. It's been several years since I had the thing apart. That's how reliable it can be. But it IS a bitch to bleed.

Hmmmm....that seems like a great solution I never expected to take as long as it did. If I ever take it apart again I am doing exactly that. I spent, I kid you not, at least 10 hours bleeding and reconfiguring that system to get it working right. Never again, I will do cable if possible, I was almost considering putting together my own linkage at the point I was at.

 

[D.Hearne]

Well I never took 10 hours to do it, but it did take 1 or 2. I found that pumping the pedal about 30 times per bleed seemed to help. But that was with the Ranger's master cylinder. I also left the cover off the reservior while doing it. Leaving it open(the resrvior) over night helps to let the air find it's own way out too.

 

[brh66cobra]

Wicked I started to use a Mustang steves set up on my t45 but couldnt because of my oil pan mods on my 4.6. Id sell it if you are interested.