what amount of clutch fork movement needed to engage clutch?

69Rcode_Mach1 said:

What D. Hearne pointed out is correct, my clutch is getting a little over an inch, around 1 1/4" of throw to disengage. I believe the T-45 is very similar, although I am not for sure on the location of the pivot on a T-45. If you can't turn the driveshaft with the pedal depressed then the clutch is not disengaging all the way. DO NOT go hydraulic unless you absolutely have to. I would have gone cable if there was a decent setup for a 69, hydraulics are great when they work, but I can't even begin to explain how much of my hair I ripped out getting it all setup properly so the air would rise to the top, and then the bleeding process to top it off took me hours. Maybe it's personal preference but I will take anything that is mechanical before electric or hydraulic because I can actually see what is going on and tweak it as needed. With a 66 the mustangsteve setup can't be beat. Take a look at it and make sure you won't have contact issues with your exhaust. If it will clear everything via straight routing, then get the car going and troubleshoot the clutch with the car running, you shouldn't have issues that would require you to rip out the system with a cable.

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D.Hearne said:

I've went thru the same hell using the McCleod hydro T/O bearing in my 89 Ranger with the Toploader 4 speed. Once you work the kinks out it's very reliable. I don't know if this will help you, but I extended the bleeder line up to the back of the intake manifold, it just made things easier when I did have to bleed the system. No more laying on the floor getting fluid squirted all over you. It's been several years since I had the thing apart. That's how reliable it can be. But it IS a bitch to bleed.

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