I need some recomendations for an amp for 3 mtx 10's rated at 500 max apiece. They are wired in parallel (i believe) in an enclosed box. I want good to have good sound. Should i angle the box so the subs point at the back window in my hatch? Capacitor? I'm a complete newb and need to knwo everything there is to know about how to hook one up too if anybody feels like explaining. btw says 4ohm by the speaker wire inputs on the box.
What amp for 3 mtx 10"?
- Thread starter mr_tinkertrain
- Start date
There is an awefull lot to explain here so I'll try to give you the basics:
You need to figure out what the RMS power rating is on your subs. I'm guessing that if they are rated at 500w MAX then they are probably running in the 300w RMS range.
Once you've figured that out you need to find an amp that has an RMS rating at 12v of about 10-20% more than that. If my earlier guess was correct then you should get an amp that runs at about 500w RMS. You don't want to buy too much amp because you will just be wasting your money. At the same time you don't want to buy too little amp because then you will underpower the subs and risk blowing them. You also want an amp that is Class D rated. MTX makes a decent amp that fits these specs (I'm not at work so I don't have the catalogue in front of me and I can't give you the exact model number and MSRP on it).
For the best bass reflection, yes, you should point it at the hatch window or at the far rear panels and make sure that you insulate the sound if you're pointing them at body panels(Dynamat).
Make sure that you get a good enough wiring kit as well. Rockford, Stinger, and Monster all make single amp wiring kits that will give you everything you need.
Make sure that you run the RCAs from the back of your head unit along one side of the car and the power cable from the battery along the opposite side of the car, otherwise you will get a bunch of interference (buzzing/whinning sound).
I don't think that you will need a capacitor for this application, you aren't running enough power to really warrant it. The guy at the store will probably try to sell you one (I would if you came into my shop), but you don't HAVE TO HAVE one unless you've already got a weak electrical system. If you've had problems with dim lights or slow power accessories you may want to get one.
If you've never wired an amp before I would highly recommend finding a friend who has and giving them a couple of beers and a pizza for thier time. If you don't have this I suggest you take it in to a shop and have them do it. If you are really insistant on saving the money then go out and buy yourself a book at barnes & noble on the basics of mobile audio install.
Good luck and enjoy!
You need to figure out what the RMS power rating is on your subs. I'm guessing that if they are rated at 500w MAX then they are probably running in the 300w RMS range.
Once you've figured that out you need to find an amp that has an RMS rating at 12v of about 10-20% more than that. If my earlier guess was correct then you should get an amp that runs at about 500w RMS. You don't want to buy too much amp because you will just be wasting your money. At the same time you don't want to buy too little amp because then you will underpower the subs and risk blowing them. You also want an amp that is Class D rated. MTX makes a decent amp that fits these specs (I'm not at work so I don't have the catalogue in front of me and I can't give you the exact model number and MSRP on it).
For the best bass reflection, yes, you should point it at the hatch window or at the far rear panels and make sure that you insulate the sound if you're pointing them at body panels(Dynamat).
Make sure that you get a good enough wiring kit as well. Rockford, Stinger, and Monster all make single amp wiring kits that will give you everything you need.
Make sure that you run the RCAs from the back of your head unit along one side of the car and the power cable from the battery along the opposite side of the car, otherwise you will get a bunch of interference (buzzing/whinning sound).
I don't think that you will need a capacitor for this application, you aren't running enough power to really warrant it. The guy at the store will probably try to sell you one (I would if you came into my shop), but you don't HAVE TO HAVE one unless you've already got a weak electrical system. If you've had problems with dim lights or slow power accessories you may want to get one.
If you've never wired an amp before I would highly recommend finding a friend who has and giving them a couple of beers and a pizza for thier time. If you don't have this I suggest you take it in to a shop and have them do it. If you are really insistant on saving the money then go out and buy yourself a book at barnes & noble on the basics of mobile audio install.
Good luck and enjoy!
If the wire kit is made for amps it should be ok. Its all wires as long as they are thick enough (gauge of wire) name should not matter. The guy above is right on with what he said.750-800 range will suffice sure. I suggest the capacitor anyway if you canit can only herp with the dimming effect (will have none
if you use) I had a 1981 Toyota CorrollaSR5 .....bored....stroked.
...balanced...blue printed......supercharged
....turbo......721 fwhp..
...750HP to the wheels
....I ran a cap in that....cured the dimming
no more problem. They do work.
I got older one "lightning" PM me if interested..
if you use) I had a 1981 Toyota CorrollaSR5 .....bored....stroked.
...balanced...blue printed......supercharged
....turbo......721 fwhp..
...750HP to the wheels
....I ran a cap in that....cured the dimming
no more problem. They do work.
I got older one "lightning" PM me if interested..
mr_tinkertrain said:
If I were you I would get a 300-500 watt RMS amp...if it is wired in parallel as you said, it will push the same ammount to each sub.
I would recommend MTX Audio Thunder 801D which will run at about 400wRMS at a stable 4ohm load which gives you plenty of room for voltage drop. They run right around $450-$500 and they will match your subs.
You can find comparable amps from different companies (e.g. Alpine MRD-500 and JL500.1). Also, sounddomain.com has a great sale on Rockford's "Power 501bd" amp right now. All of these would work for your set-up.
To clear up the misconception...not all wiring is the same, even if they are the same gauge there are big differences between brands and levels. Some of the companies don't do the QC that the good companies do and you end up with wiring that corrodes faster because of O2 introduced into the copper and doesn't use the technologies that have been proven to be more efficent in providing signal. I would really recommend using a bigger name like Monster, Stinger, or Rockford.
ok ordered rockford fosgate 4-gauge wiring kit for dual amps (i plan on adding an amp for speakers later on) and the mtx 801d amp. Now what gauge speaker wire do i want? will 16 gauge suffice? can i get the connectors to hook into the speaker box from somewhere like radio shack? i think they are called banana plugs or something like that.
Hmmm I'm confused.
Why 300-500 watts? If each sub is capable of handling 250 watts (actually, it's probably 225 watts if it's the box I'm thinking of), then he'd ideally get a box that'll push 750 watts into 4 ohms (he mentioned the speaker cup says 4 ohms... and if it's the MTX box it think, it really is 4 ohms). It doesn't really matter how it's wired because the final impedance is 4 ohms - each sub will handle 250 watts...period.
He needs more power
Get a PG Tantrum 1200 - they're awesome - you can get a refurbed one at sound domain for like $369.
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHORT12001
Go to www.knukonceptz.com
Lots of quality wiring at 1/2 the price of the "bigger names" - it's the same stuff. Monster is overrated and their QC sucks. Every wire I've ever bought from Monster (for both car audio and home audio) has had the connectors fall off. I wouldn't buy another Monster product for anything.
I've used Stinger with good luck. Rockford makes decent wiring kits too. KnuKonceptz is awesome quality for the $$ and gets my $$ if I'm not in an "immediate" need - meaning I have the time to order it.
Phoenix00GT said:
Why 300-500 watts? If each sub is capable of handling 250 watts (actually, it's probably 225 watts if it's the box I'm thinking of), then he'd ideally get a box that'll push 750 watts into 4 ohms (he mentioned the speaker cup says 4 ohms... and if it's the MTX box it think, it really is 4 ohms). It doesn't really matter how it's wired because the final impedance is 4 ohms - each sub will handle 250 watts...period.
He needs more power
Get a PG Tantrum 1200 - they're awesome - you can get a refurbed one at sound domain for like $369.
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHORT12001
Go to www.knukonceptz.com
Lots of quality wiring at 1/2 the price of the "bigger names" - it's the same stuff. Monster is overrated and their QC sucks. Every wire I've ever bought from Monster (for both car audio and home audio) has had the connectors fall off. I wouldn't buy another Monster product for anything.
I've used Stinger with good luck. Rockford makes decent wiring kits too. KnuKonceptz is awesome quality for the $$ and gets my $$ if I'm not in an "immediate" need - meaning I have the time to order it.
