What are good shocks to use on Classic Mustang?

oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
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Plymouth, MI
I have cheapo replacement shocks on my '69 Mustang Fastback and now that I have rebuilt the engine and added more power it is more obvious then ever that I need better shocks. The suspension was redone with urethane bushings, etc but I retained the stock swaybar (11/16"?), etc.
The problem I have is most noticible when cornering at speed (like a highway off ramp). The front of the car seems to understeer upon entering the corner and then the outside corner quickly drops and and the car starts to turn hard (near oversteer). I talked to my road racer friend and he said I need better shocks to control this. I don't plan to race the car, etc. but I just don't think it's safe to drive it at anywhere near highway speed with the poor handling it has now.

Do you agree that better shocks will go a long way toward eliminating my turning problem? What are good stock replacements? Are the KYB 'Gas Adjust' enough better than stock to justify the expense? Are there others to consider?

Thanks!
 
The biggest improvement you can make in the handling of your car would be to do the Shelby drop. Without making this change, adding less compliant bushings and stiffer shocks will not help much if at all. The best news is this mod costs nothing if you do the work. :nice:
 
No, I don't think your problem that you described is caused by shocks. I think something else is happening, but I'm not sure what it is.
What condition are the rear springs, bushings and shocks?
How recently were the front end components replaced?
Have you checked for any worn out components front or rear?
Steering components?

If all the parts are in good shape, this problem may possibly be some sort of "stiction" in the urethane components where some part of the suspension doesn't want to move smoothly. I've heard that's a common problem with urethane. Do you grease all the urethane regularly? You could jack up the car, remove the front springs and shocks and check for binding in the front suspension, if nothing is worn out.

Another thing you could do is find a large, flat, abandoned paved area. Have a friend drive your car in a big circle while you look at it and snap a picture or two. See how much the body is rolling, and what is the camber of the front wheels. The front outside wheel especially should be perpendicular to the ground. See if the limit is under or oversteer on the car. Stock geometry should understeer.

My '70 has stock replacement shocks (I think they cost $15), and it turns VERY well. I'm really happy with it. I did the Shelby drop, so that may be part of it as well. I put Milodyne front suspension parts in mine.
 
I have Edelbrock IAS shocks in mine. They ride nice and smooth when you're just cruising, but when you want to throw the car around a corner they're not too soft either.

The only problem I have had with them, was one of them blew all it's oil out after I had just installed it and took the car off the jackstands. Must just have been defective. Gotta love the lifetime warranty though.
 
I too have KYB's (and 620 drop springs) and they certainly make the car more responsive and easier to control. That said, if and when I decide to re-do the suspension, I will be going more of a "European" route. That means a stiffened body structure and softer springs/shocks that allow the suspension to travel a bit more. This should handle well while dealing with bumps and potholes better. The kidney-punishing ride I have now corners pretty well, but can be a bit "skittish" because it's so hard that would rather break loose laterally than give a little suspension travel.

If I were just going with new shocks, I'd seriously consider those Edelbrock shocks. They seem to have a good balance of ride and response.
 
I have just had Monroe gas shocks on mine, but haven't ever put any considerable mileage on it to really judge.

I read recently of the suggestion of KYB's on one end and Edelbrock IAS's on the other, I just can't remember which was which and I'm not sure if that was along with the Shelby drop and 620's or not.
 
66HertzClone said:
The biggest improvement you can make in the handling of your car would be to do the Shelby drop. Without making this change, adding less compliant bushings and stiffer shocks will not help much if at all. The best news is this mod costs nothing if you do the work. :nice:

I've actually heard from several people that a Negative Wedge kit does a better job than a simple Shelby mod. I have heard that both are excellent conversions though.

However, I can say that you will feel a major difference over worn shocks with some new KYBs. It will be a huge difference (it was with mine).
 
Thanks for the replies.

I am not familiar with the Shelby drop but I'm sure I can find out by searching the forums...

As far as the condition of the suspension - I converted to power disc brakes from manual drum brakes about 8 years ago. I used Granada spindles, etc (before everyone started making conversion kits :rolleyes: ).
I reused my front springs and upper control arms (used new body attachment rods and end caps). The rear springs were shot so I replaced them. They are stock ride height but perhaps just a slight bit stiffer than stock. As I mentioned, all the bushings and end links are urethane. I honestly have not greased them because they were graphite impregnated. It said in the instructions not to grease them.

I had the steering system rebuilt last winter when I did the engine rebuild and the car was aligned after I did the brake swap and bushings. The tires are old, hard, tired radials on 14" Mag 500's. I have never pushed it in an open parking lot to see if it oversteers or understeers. It is winter in Michigan so that will have to wait until spring...

To describe the condition furthur - it feels like the weight transfer to the outside wheels is not smooth. It seems to happen all of a sudden. As I enter a corner and turn the wheel, the car feels like it is going straight. When it does finally turn, it is abrupt and surprises me sometime.
Might the front springs be shot too? The car sits at the right ride height.

The car probably only has 800 miles on it since the generic replacement shocks and suspension were new (8 yrs).

Based on the replies so far, better shocks may not solve the problem but they couldn't hurt...
 
i would go with KYB's, I run gas adjusts myself and love them but my car is rather stiff. You should check your balljoints. Also the upgraded front sway bar and montecarlo bar did wonders for my car. Not to mention old ****ty tires arent helping you out either.

From a friend who works in a supply house they warranty more monroes than anything else.
 
does it feel like the front end is rising and then all of a sudden drops down? if so i think your problem may be with the granada spindles not allowing the right camber curve in the front end geometry. several have experienced these types of problems with their granada spindles. if the spindles aren't the problem and it is just the shocks, i'd recommend either gabriel stryders at all 4 corners since they are adjustable and about the same price as the kyb gas-adjusts or kyb gas-adjusts up front and gr-2's out back, really any low pressure gas shock in the rear would be ok even the cheapie gabriel red-ryders you can at autozone, which is probably what historic is using. also do you have a rear swaybar installed on your car?
 
66 BLAKE 96 said:
I too have KYB's (and 620 drop springs) and they certainly make the car more responsive and easier to control. That said, if and when I decide to re-do the suspension, I will be going more of a "European" route. That means a stiffened body structure and softer springs/shocks that allow the suspension to travel a bit more. This should handle well while dealing with bumps and potholes better. The kidney-punishing ride I have now corners pretty well, but can be a bit "skittish" because it's so hard that would rather break loose laterally than give a little suspension travel.

If I were just going with new shocks, I'd seriously consider those Edelbrock shocks. They seem to have a good balance of ride and response.

The European ride was the route I took. I added TCP subframe connectors plus an Export brace and the monte carlo bar. I used Promotorsport progressive rate springs and a HD 4 leaf in the rear. I used KYB gas adjust shocks front and rear. I honestly have only a few miles on the car since theses parts were installed but I was very pleased with the results.

Another thought on the ride problems you describe, what condition are your spring perches in? The original units can bind and this might caused some of the ride problems you have described.
 
I have the KYB's and I guess they're alright, they've gotten mushy with old age so I'm replacing them in the spring. I found a great price on generic heavy duty shocks at CarQuest which turn out to be debranded Gabriels--which I've heard is a great brand.
 
bnickle,
That actually kind of sounds like the problem... like the front stays raised into the corner and then drops. If I hold the wheel steady, the car quickly grabs and turns as the drop happens.... It's strange because I used the correct Granada ball joints, etc and the spindles were the same height (between the lower and upper attachments) as the original ones. What do people do to fix the spindle/camber issue with Granada parts? Can I improve this with different alignment specs? If so, does anyone have them?

I do remember the shocks being red... I think they may be red-riders.

I looked at the Stryders and the only drawback to adjusting them is that they have to be taken off the car. Sounds easy but I have a pretty bad back so projects like these have gotten less attractive. I would prefer to change them once and then leave them alone. I have Tokico adjustables on my 5.0 and I have never changed them.

I do have a monte carlo bar (curved) but I do not have a rear sway bar. The suspension was a stock rebuild w/ urethane components. The car was originally a 'grocery getter' 302 2V w/ 3 speed so the original sway bar is small (11/16"?).

Thanks!