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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

What are some good rear control arms?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gnx547
  • Start date Start date Sep 22, 2009
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gnx547

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Sep 26, 2006
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Sep 22, 2009
#1
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #1
What are some good rear controls arms for the 94-95 mustang that are made in the USA?
 
T

turbogt

Member
May 1, 2003
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19
Montana
Sep 22, 2009
#2
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #2
maximum motorsports..
 

Nik_95Cobra

Founding Member
Feb 5, 2002
1,677
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Tempe, Arizona
Sep 22, 2009
#3
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #3
Run the MM's on mine too
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Sep 22, 2009
#4
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #4
in terms of suspension... whatever maxium says... goes....
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
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Sep 22, 2009
#5
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #5
Maximum and UMI are made in the USA. There may be others as well.
 
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wytstang

Mustang Master
Mar 14, 2004
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Summerville,SC missing South Fl. weather :(
Sep 22, 2009
#6
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #6
MM is what's going into mine soon.
 

gnx547

Member
Sep 26, 2006
283
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Sep 22, 2009
#7
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #7
What company sells MM control arms for a good price?
 

MotiV8ed_95GT

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Monkton, MD
Sep 22, 2009
#8
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #8
UMI here. Made in the USA and very affordable. Got a good deal on them direct from UMI @ Carlisle. No issues yet.

Ross
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
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Sep 22, 2009
#9
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #9
They are great guys at UMI. They are local to me and I know a few of the guys that work there. their stuff seems to be more drag oriented, but they are constantly adding new products based on demand. i've been trying to get them to make a 3 link setup for our cars like evolution used to have.
 
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wytstang

Mustang Master
Mar 14, 2004
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Summerville,SC missing South Fl. weather :(
Sep 23, 2009
#10
  • Sep 23, 2009
  • #10
gnx547 said:
What company sells MM control arms for a good price?
Click to expand...
If you have a corral account contact artsparts (or ARTS PERFORMANCE PARTS) and ask him for a shipped quote on any MM part.
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
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Sep 23, 2009
#11
  • Sep 23, 2009
  • #11
I have Steeda upper and lowers. I'm pretty sure they are american made.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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Acworth, GA
Sep 23, 2009
#12
  • Sep 23, 2009
  • #12
Steeda now makes their control arms on site. I've known their fabricator for over 15 years.

Kurt
 

Dino Dino Bambino

15 Year Member
Jun 13, 2007
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Cyprus
Sep 24, 2009
#13
  • Sep 24, 2009
  • #13
I have MM lowers and Edelbrock uppers on mine.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
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Sep 24, 2009
#14
  • Sep 24, 2009
  • #14
Steeda's stuff is Made in USA. I've used Pro-Form (which is an off-brand like 50 resto's economy kit) and I had no issues. I had them on a bolt-on notchback, but they were just as good of quality as my HPM Mega-Bite's. I paid 179 for the set of 4 and my darn Mega-Bites were 239 for just 2 lowers only.
 

blksn955.o

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Sep 25, 2009
#15
  • Sep 25, 2009
  • #15
If you want the top of the line/best part for your money. MM or teamZ are probably at the top depending on what your looking for.

If your looking for budget...I went UPR and am happy with them. If I was going to spend some money MM or Team Z would be were I would look. Not really 100% sure if UPR is 100% american made...I want to say yes, not sure though.
 

GTA_V6_Mustang

Active Member
Nov 29, 2004
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Miami, FL
Sep 28, 2009
#16
  • Sep 28, 2009
  • #16
Hotchkis upper and lower control arms is what I have and they are freaking bad ass so far.
 
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inphiniti

Active Member
Mar 15, 2003
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Providence, RI
Sep 28, 2009
#17
  • Sep 28, 2009
  • #17
SVT32VDOHC said:
Steeda's stuff is Made in USA. I've used Pro-Form (which is an off-brand like 50 resto's economy kit) and I had no issues. I had them on a bolt-on notchback, but they were just as good of quality as my HPM Mega-Bite's. I paid 179 for the set of 4 and my darn Mega-Bites were 239 for just 2 lowers only.
Click to expand...

im runnin a set of Mega bite lowers, i think i got them for like 125, but they were used with about 6000k miles on it... theyre awesome IMHO
 
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96darkhorse

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wilmington, california
Oct 2, 2009
#18
  • Oct 2, 2009
  • #18
i have griggs control arms....im pretty sure their made in the usa
 

Venom351R

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Apr 27, 2002
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MAINE
Oct 2, 2009
#19
  • Oct 2, 2009
  • #19
I have the Maximum Motorsports lower arms (they dont make uppers). Ive had them on since this spring. I like them quite a bit and definitely helped lower my 60' time
 

S351Saleen77

Member
Jun 27, 2002
423
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Washington
Oct 3, 2009
#20
  • Oct 3, 2009
  • #20
I have Griggs on #77.
On #58 I just put J&M arms on, the price is VERY good also!

J&M is a sponser here and the owner was one of the original owners of MM I guess. Anyway they are a 3 piece bushing so they don't bind...just like MM and Steeda's don't bind because of the bushing design. This is what you need if you are taking corners. Drag only can use the 2 piece bushings design but it does not let it articulate which is o.k. for a straight line. I had a old set of Hotchkis and sold them because of the 2 piece design. Notice below how 10 degrees of rotation only put 41.7 ft lbs of torque Vs. a 2 piece which at 10deg rotation snapped a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. Lots of stress on the torque boxes with 2 piece poly bushings.

Rear Lower Control Arms

Here is some info from their site,

"3 Piece Poly-Ball Bushing on Chassis & Axle Side

The control arm bushings found in the Mustang automobiles can have a significant impact on the vehicle’s ride, comfort, handling, acceleration, noise and vibration. When the car leans (i.e., rolls) in a turn, one side of the chassis moves upward relative to the rear axle, the other side moves downward, and the control arms must twist to allow for the axle to articulate. This causes the control arm bushings to bind. If this bind becomes excessive, it will raise the rear wheel rate and produce sudden, uncontrolled, undesirable changes in handling (e.g., snap oversteer).

Ford minimizes this suspension bind by using compliant rubber bushings in both lower control arms. These relatively "soft" bushings help accommodate the necessary motion of the control arms during body roll. However, the rubber bushings do not provide much in the way of forward and aft support, which can cause wheel hop during hard acceleration and braking.

It has become common practice to replace the stock rubber control arm bushings with solid or two piece polyurethane bushings to resolve the shortcomings of the soft rubber bushings. Hard polyurethane bushings eliminate wheel hop, reduce axle deflection, and improve rear straight line grip. However, the downside of common aftermarket bushings such as delrin, steel, stiffer rubber, solid or two piece polyurethane bushings is they prevent the necessary movement of the control arms during body roll, which in turn produces significant binding in the suspension when the vehicle is cornering. The polyurethane bushings also place unnecessary high stresses on the torque boxes, which are the attachment points for the control arms to the chassis. Standard aftermarket control arms do not allow for rotation of the control arm during cornering because of the stiffness of the bushings.

The Solution:

We at J&M Products designed and built a tubular lower control arm which will eliminate the unwanted uncontrolled control arm flex. Round tubing is harder to work with but has many other advantages over square or rectangular tubing. It is stronger in bending, torsion, and also lighter than square or rectangular tubing.

We then solved the shortcomings of the factory rubber and other aftermarket polyurethane and stiffer rubber bushings. This was accomplished with our Patent Pending 3 piece Poly-Ball bushing combination. By spending countless hours looking and dissecting the geometry and the need of the rear suspension we come out with bind-free bushings set up. Our Patent Pending Poly-Ball bushing combination incorporates a very hard inner polyurethane ball which is surrounded by soft socket outer cups. This combination allows the bushing to articulate like a spherical bearing during cornering but the hard inner ball does not allow the bushing to deflect during acceleration giving you great traction during acceleration like solid bushings but remains completely bind free like a spherical bearing during cornering for great predictable traction in the corners.

The Testing:

We built a fixture which simulated a factory control arm mounting and tested how much force was needed to make the control arm articulate (twist) in those mounts and the results where astounding.


Poly-Ball Bushings:

5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque

Standard 2 piece setup using only 85 durometer bushings:

5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. The 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
"
 
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