What are the must do's before the 5.0 goes into hibernation?
- Thread starter 89foxtrot
- Start date
wyominghotwheel
New Member
Putting on jack stands is above and beyond what is necessary. Usually this is done if you only drive the car 3 months a year. 4 months of storage won't cause problems to your suspension.
If you have indoor storage, lay a large plastic tarp over the spot where you'll park the car. Cut 4 pieces of 2x6 wood. Center your car on top of the tarp and then back the car up far enough to lay the 2x6 wood under each tire so when you drive your car up on all four pieces of wood it'll be perfectly centered. By putting wood under your tires, you're making allowance for the tires to "sink" into the wood hence eliminating/reducing the flattening of the tires which may occur had the car been parked in one spot for a long period of time on hard concrete.
If it was possible, I'd have rust proofed the whole car first, then washed and waxed. Pour gas stabalizer/anti freeze in a full tank. Do an oil change with fresh filter.
Last but not least, throw a breathable car cover over the car (assuming it's INDOORS). If outdoors, assuming you have tinted windows all around except the windsheild, place cardboard or one of those window shades on the windshield to protect your interior from sun damage and leave the car uncovered. In this case YOU MUST rust proof the whole car as in the spring all that trapped water accumulated during the snow falls in the winter will start to melt and cause rust where it's trapped. Car Covers of any kind are a serious NO-NO for outdoor storage in wet weather.
If you have indoor storage, lay a large plastic tarp over the spot where you'll park the car. Cut 4 pieces of 2x6 wood. Center your car on top of the tarp and then back the car up far enough to lay the 2x6 wood under each tire so when you drive your car up on all four pieces of wood it'll be perfectly centered. By putting wood under your tires, you're making allowance for the tires to "sink" into the wood hence eliminating/reducing the flattening of the tires which may occur had the car been parked in one spot for a long period of time on hard concrete.
If it was possible, I'd have rust proofed the whole car first, then washed and waxed. Pour gas stabalizer/anti freeze in a full tank. Do an oil change with fresh filter.
Last but not least, throw a breathable car cover over the car (assuming it's INDOORS). If outdoors, assuming you have tinted windows all around except the windsheild, place cardboard or one of those window shades on the windshield to protect your interior from sun damage and leave the car uncovered. In this case YOU MUST rust proof the whole car as in the spring all that trapped water accumulated during the snow falls in the winter will start to melt and cause rust where it's trapped. Car Covers of any kind are a serious NO-NO for outdoor storage in wet weather.
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
If parked outside (heck or inside for that matter), get 2 pump bottles of tire silicone and BLAST the entire car. This stuff is very fluid and will collect in all of the exact same places that water from metling snow will. You can spray it everywhere where wax wont even go and it will make it smell nice. Make sure to go crazy and spray it INSIDE the fenders and inside the doors and inside the torque boxes.
Why would I do this you ask?
3 years parked outside, driven in new england snow and salt. Maybe 1 tiny rust spot since I started "pre-treating" it like this. Silcone forms a film than actually collects dust and such and uses it like that gunk on the side of your motor. Notice how the motor is not rusted where the gunk is. The floorboard will have this nice film on it protecting everything. Alas, it does burn off the exhuast so that will stay unprotected.
Plus it doubles as a darn good wax that also permeates the plastic/vinyl exterior pieces and takes off tree sap and dissolves light stains. I swear by this stuff. For laughs go inside and blast your interior plastic too. It's basically the same as armor-all but with more silicone.
Oh yeah, and it makes your tires shiny too.
Why would I do this you ask?
3 years parked outside, driven in new england snow and salt. Maybe 1 tiny rust spot since I started "pre-treating" it like this. Silcone forms a film than actually collects dust and such and uses it like that gunk on the side of your motor. Notice how the motor is not rusted where the gunk is. The floorboard will have this nice film on it protecting everything. Alas, it does burn off the exhuast so that will stay unprotected.
Plus it doubles as a darn good wax that also permeates the plastic/vinyl exterior pieces and takes off tree sap and dissolves light stains. I swear by this stuff. For laughs go inside and blast your interior plastic too. It's basically the same as armor-all but with more silicone.
Oh yeah, and it makes your tires shiny too.
willys1
Active Member
Pull in front of your house,and do a "HELLACIOUS" 2nd gear burn out 
This will remind you of your stang every time you see it over the winter 
This will remind you of your stang every time you see it over the winter Crazypete, living in New England, you should have a rust proofing outlet that'll do your whole car for $100. Like a Ziebart, or Rust Check or Krown Rust. Besides soaking a moisture repellent oil under your car, they also drill tiny holes in you door jams and quarter panels and with a pressurized "wand", spray the oil behind and inside all the panels of the car to prevent moisture from accumulating and rusting inside the panels where you can't see.
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
Maybe it's a bit of personal pride maybe even arrogance but I think I'm way more thorough than any "professional" outlet would ever be. To them, my car is one of a few dozen that ran through there that day. To me, it's _my car_. I really go crazy here. I pull fenders off and spray inside the reinforcement lattice beneath, spray beneath the carpet, behind the interior panels and under the gastank.
I doubt that it is regular policy to spray oil inside most of these little nooks and crannies but this is where the problems usually start. How many cars have I seen with the bottoms of their doors rotted out.
Plus, the silicone treatment (plus header paint on the underside: much more scratch resistant than regular paint) sort of accumulates year per year in the very same places you are trying to protect.
Drilling tiny holes....GASP! I'm the only one that gets to drill holes in my stang.
I used to do rubberizing but found it less effective than the 500 degree paint plus silicone. On year zero, I did rubberizing and found that all of the rubber was gone by the next year but the header paint was still down there where I had sprayed it. Nothing lasts in snow and salt so it is a better idea to do a regular inspection of the underside with a can of paint in hand than to rely on a single coat of rubber applied once years before.
Just my humble opinions of course.
I never knew they had rubberizing outlets though.... thanks for the heads up
I doubt that it is regular policy to spray oil inside most of these little nooks and crannies but this is where the problems usually start. How many cars have I seen with the bottoms of their doors rotted out.
Plus, the silicone treatment (plus header paint on the underside: much more scratch resistant than regular paint) sort of accumulates year per year in the very same places you are trying to protect.
Drilling tiny holes....GASP! I'm the only one that gets to drill holes in my stang.
I used to do rubberizing but found it less effective than the 500 degree paint plus silicone. On year zero, I did rubberizing and found that all of the rubber was gone by the next year but the header paint was still down there where I had sprayed it. Nothing lasts in snow and salt so it is a better idea to do a regular inspection of the underside with a can of paint in hand than to rely on a single coat of rubber applied once years before.
Just my humble opinions of course.
I never knew they had rubberizing outlets though.... thanks for the heads up
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
I'd add - I don't think the 'wood' trick will save the tires from taking a set. What I do is simply roll mine forward, and then back a foot or so alternating every week or two. That seems to help the tires not take a set. Forward one week, back the next. Air the tires up to around 38-40. As temps drop, so will pressure - you want to have at least 32 in there even when it's zero out. Over pressure won't cause as many problems as under pressure will. Lastly, be sure when you put it away, it's been after a good, long drive. You want all the condensate evaporated from the exhaust system. And if you start it periodically over the winter (which is best for one), be sure to drive it long enough to dry out the exhaust system. Water sitting in the mufflers all winter will make quick work of the metal from the inside out.
The best situation is to be able to drive it a bit when the weather is clear. I've tried to leave mine where I can take them out for 30 minutes to an hour once every 2 or 3 weeks. Don't forget to hit the a/c switch for a minute or two to move oil around in the system keeping seals lubed.
The best situation is to be able to drive it a bit when the weather is clear. I've tried to leave mine where I can take them out for 30 minutes to an hour once every 2 or 3 weeks. Don't forget to hit the a/c switch for a minute or two to move oil around in the system keeping seals lubed.
OMG, were talking about a few months, not years here. It's the salt on the road that eats your car, not the snow.
OR:
Move down south and forget about it.
OR:
Move down south and forget about it.
willys1
Active Member
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Funny - the guy from Georgia lecturing the guy from Kansas about the effects of winter weather on the car. LOL 
also i read, take out the plugs, and drip some oil down int he engine, not alot. just a dap. then crank the engine manually to lubricate the walls and rings...
also heard that every other week u should manually turn the engine over- with the coil disconnected
dont want the valve springs staying in same spot for to long, or else they will be compressed to much for a long period of time, and making there strength and or height altered
also heard that every other week u should manually turn the engine over- with the coil disconnected
dont want the valve springs staying in same spot for to long, or else they will be compressed to much for a long period of time, and making there strength and or height altered
Michael Yount said:Funny - the guy from Georgia lecturing the guy from Kansas about the effects of winter weather on the car. LOL
I'm not lecturing anyone, but I have lived up north, not native to GA. So I guess because I live in the south that means that me and my whole family were born, raised, and died in the same town? I guess the bennifits of my inbreeding were that I have extra fingers so I can change the radio station while powershifting. Nittos hook good on these dirt roads also.
LMAO.90mustangGT said:
i am prettys sure your first post was said in not total seriousness. and i think Michael posted his thoughts to yours, humerously. reading this, im not sure now. LOL.
Hey, i got ya beat Jason - i have to summerize my cars. the desert SW sees hot temps most of the year. winter is the easy time (though we have been below freezing lately).
i did not forget that i grew up in Alaska though.
HISSIN50 said:LMAO.
i am prettys sure your first post was said in not total seriousness. and i think Michael posted his thoughts to yours, humerously. reading this, im not sure now. LOL.
Hey, i got ya beat Jason - i have to summerize my cars. the desert SW sees hot temps most of the year. winter is the easy time (though we have been below freezing lately).
i did not forget that i grew up in Alaska though.
Yeah, I was just being an ass. In alaska, the first step to winter driving would be finding your car burried under the snow. I remember living in Minisota, seeing more snowmobiles than cars on the road when it got really bad. Helping my grandfather dig the driveway out, falling into snowdrifts over my head. Living in chicago and being blown into brown snowdrifts over my head. Chains on the tires, all the coats, F that, I love the South, except the humidity and bugs. One thing I noticed about this state more than any other I have been to, the air in the summer is stagnet, it never moves. If you feel a breeze, that means it's going to storm, but oh well, wait 15 minutes the weather will change, the sun comes back out and your in a sanna you can't escape.
90mustangGT said:
Sounds familiar...
Back on topic: I noticed after I did my h/c/i swap my "balance" was worse...you could feel more vibration thru the steering wheel...my car was sitting for about 3.5-4 weeks in one spot? Could that be what caused it? It wasn't a big deal but noticeable...
