What Are You Guys Running For Batteries?

That sir would be incorrect.

Every car I've had in the last several years (whether it be street car, or race car) has had it's battery in the trunk. Relocating a conventional "wet" battery to the trunk requires a stupid looking and clunky battery box, and needs to be vented. In a racing application, every thing from a small crash, to a violent wheelstand usually results in that front mounted battery blowing it's load all over the engine and inner fender panel.....Even when that doesn't happen, the attractive green fungoo that forms all over the terminal posts and connections in a matter of a couple of weeks as a byproduct of a wet battery, is reason enough to NOT buy a crap, wet battery.

And that isn't even starting down the path of how a dry battery is a better tech solution for any hobby/street/racecar than a standard plate design wet battery.

The Optima has been in my trunk connected for over a year,..there is no crusty green/white junk on anything back there.

My statement was more in regard to regular street cars with engine bay mounted batteries. I won't argue with you regarding racing and/or trunk mounted applications. If wheelstands are a normal part of your day, by all means, buy a battery that can be rattled around a bit without issue.

FWIW I use dielectric grease on my terminals and have very little problem with corrosion or "green fungoo". I've never really paid attention to it before, but I don't think it takes any more than an annual wipe-down to keep it looking new.

Also, I'm another guy with less than stellar experience with Optima- my last yellow top lasted ~4 years, and my last Duralast Gold went over 7. Not only that, but the Optima was in a completely stock 4 cylinder application while the Duralast was in the Mustang- and had been fully discharged, jump started, and tasked with long cranking sessions on countless occasions. Not exactly scientific, indisputable evidence, but it still left me with a bad taste in my mouth, considering Optimas are typically twice as expensive.
 
The premium batteries labeled Motorcraft have 8 year warranties and the premium ACDelco is 7 years. These are generally the batteries that I get and I think I've gotten my 7 years out of each of them so far.
 
My statement was more in regard to regular street cars with engine bay mounted batteries. I won't argue with you regarding racing and/or trunk mounted applications. If wheelstands are a normal part of your day, by all means, buy a battery that can be rattled around a bit without issue.

FWIW I use dielectric grease on my terminals and have very little problem with corrosion or "green fungoo". I've never really paid attention to it before, but I don't think it takes any more than an annual wipe-down to keep it looking new.

Also, I'm another guy with less than stellar experience with Optima- my last yellow top lasted ~4 years, and my last Duralast Gold went over 7. Not only that, but the Optima was in a completely stock 4 cylinder application while the Duralast was in the Mustang- and had been fully discharged, jump started, and tasked with long cranking sessions on countless occasions. Not exactly scientific, indisputable evidence, but it still left me with a bad taste in my mouth, considering Optimas are typically twice as expensive.
My optima is on its way out. I've gotten 7 years out of it, but I don't think I will be replacing it.
 
I'll have to 2nd this for some, but not all, applications. In my C5 Corvette, the brilliance that is GM decided to put a wet battery over the PCM and BCM. That way when it leaked badly enough you'd have to replace both. Optima was the only way to play.



You probably weren't paying much attention at the beginning when ON3 really was junk. It may have improved, but there were so many pathetic issues that they'll never see a $ from me.

The same engineers that put the electronic control module under the water pump on i think C4's so when you replace the water pump, it floods it out.
 
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Just to let anyone know that has old car batteries.....the scrap yard by me ( Maryland ) pays 5 bucks each for old batteries. One man's junk....another mans treasure.
 
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Ok, ended up just snagging a Duralast Gold. Turned in the old Die hard as a core, and they looked identical. Probably are considering JC makes them for both.

Would have gone MC but a ford dealership is out of my way and I don't need the MC label that badly.

Onto the next reason to spend $$$