What carb for 289?

pwcracer

Founding Member
Jun 13, 2000
347
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16
Hastings, MN, USA
I am posting this message here since my motor came from a classic stang.


I have a 72 Bronco, that my Dad built back in the mid 70's. He installed a Cobra 289 from a Mustang GT 350. Until recently, it has been in storage for many years. He used to run the truck in dirt drags, so he installed a 2 barrel carb on it, so he could run in a certain class. I am interested in getting a 4 barrel for it, but I am not sure what I need to look for. I have read some things about the Holley T/A's. Would that be the thing to get for my motor?

Thanks in advance.
 
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I guess reliability (and price) would be my main concern. Performance wouldn't hurt either though.
I guess what happened, was the original car, was totaled, and the guy that owned it salvaged as many parts as he could off of it, and my Dad was able to pick up the motor back in 1973.
 
Does your motor have the original solid lifter cam in it? (I'm thinking the 2bbl wouldn't run as well with it, so I'm guessing not) Does he still have the original manifold or carb for it? (I'm guessing he has neither since your asking about a carb, or your dad got the motor minus the carb and intake)

I'm agreeing with David, I'd go with a 650DP.
 
I ask if that motor is a real GT 350's because if it is, then it's worth A LOT of money. You could sell and build a even nicer motor with the $$$ (or buy one). Plus, for the Shelby purests here it would be nice to see the motor where it belongs. Just my .02
 
I would go with a Holley Street Avenger. These are incredible. As soon as you bolt it on and crank her up you'll see a huge difference. for the motor you have I would guess maybe the 570 cfm or the 670 cfm. you dont wanna over-carb it. you'll lose HP.
 
I'm guessing 3-5 G's to the right person. And I'm not sure the early Shelby blocks got a serial number stamped on them, that would be the car's serial number and if it were totaled, then there's no original car to put it back in, its just a Hipo 289. It should have a date code on the block and you'd have to remove the heads to see the part number on them. The part numbers and date codes on the heads and block are what make it valuable to certain parties. The right crank, cam, rods & pistons that are original make it more valuable. It you had the motor sitting on a stand, freshly pulled from the Shelby with all accessories and factory wiring connects, even sitting for all these years, it'd be worth some serious coin.