What Clutch are you 650+rw guys Using?

I imagine when Killercanary said real street racers, he was talking about the NMRA Real Street class.

BTW Vipersix, looks like from your sig you should have a hell of a setup when you get it running.

Oh yeah... don't I feel like a dummy. I forget that most people don't build a car that doesn't fit into any category but Open Comp.

Yeah I'm pretty excited about this setup if I can ever get it finished. It'll be pretty unique so you can't possibly miss it at WFC or NMRA or wherever I end up racing at.
 
Remember to break the clutch in correctly or it's ruined. Should be a sticker on the box about taking it easy for 300-500 miles. Mine chattered like crazy but went away around 300 miles later. I still hate it though. Spec clutches suck.
 
Just fwiw I have a McLeod street twin in my car, and it came with it installed. It has ~ 40k miles on it and from the previous owner had 350-450rwhp through it, with a decent amount of racing. Its still holding strong and is still streetable to slip. It has never chattered for me and is prob about 25% more effort than a regular dual friction mcleod clutch.

They are pricey though, but its prob what I'll go with next time.

I've heard alot of knowledgable guys say that the spec stg 3's are too harsh engaging, and they tend to find any weak spot in the driveline. I like that the street twin allows a tiny bit of slip but also can handle 600+hp.
 
Remember to break the clutch in correctly or it's ruined. Should be a sticker on the box about taking it easy for 300-500 miles. Mine chattered like crazy but went away around 300 miles later. I still hate it though. Spec clutches suck.

Thxs Vibe..didnt know that....good grief..hahaha:lol:

My clutch is basically a modified Stg 3+ full faced disc made of carbon semi-metallic which can handle 800 plus ft lbs. The reg 4 is a puck style like the reg 3, so they call the modified 3+ a 4+
A reg stg 4 is only rated at 680 ft lbs.
 
The old Spec 3 6 puck stlye do suck for the record

I cant belive someone would run that in a street car....6 puck..lol but they did re-vamp them to cure the welding themselves to flywheel issues. haha
 
As Chris and I discussed. Peak TQ # is not the only way to look at clutch holding ability. Where the TQ comes in is important. If I had a roots blower making 800 tq at 2000 I would need a clutch that could take the motor tq AND accelerating of the car from a stand still. Car weight has alot to do with it. A heavy car with stickey tires offers much more resistance on getting the drive traim mass moving.

Guys are roasting clutch

With my new motor the peak tq is above 5000 with the it being motor alone on launch.

For me I can get away with my Spec III+ for now. Chris makes alot more TQ at a lower rpm.

Him and his Damn turbo