What do I need to do to get to 12s w/ 2000 GT

get some suspension mods, sticky tires, and nitrous and your car should be capable of low 12's.

how much power would you need to hit low 12's? probally right around 420 at the crank right? thats bunches o power. you would have to spray the crap out of that. i personally dont like spray, i think its kinda cheatin. thats just me. also, that would kill your motor within a year too. the bottom line is, you want low 12's, your gonna have to spend some cash. i think you should just do all the normal boltons first, get used to drivin it, then some small motor stuff, you know like cams and maby gettin your heads p&p'd, and i think, if you could drive then, i bet you'd be in the 12's. not low twelves, but 12's. after that, id go with a turbo setup, they seem to be the new hot ticket to these mod motors. after that, i could see 12's all day long.
dont spray tho.
racing has more to do with the driver then the car. i talked to a guy last week that has a 740rwhp car, and he cant manage anything below a 11.5. i asked him why, and he showd me his time slip with a 3 something 60ft time. he bought it that way and cant drive it worth a crap.

I have a 2000 GT with cold air intake, exhaust, nitto drag radials, and ZEX nitrous kit. I ran a 13.3 this weekend but was not launching at all. The good thing about nitrous is you can only run it when you are racing vs blower that is always on. Just something to think about.

ah my blower is not always on

slow96mustang said:

how much power would you need to hit low 12's? probally right around 420 at the crank right? thats bunches o power. you would have to spray the crap out of that. i personally dont like spray, i think its kinda cheatin. thats just me. also, that would kill your motor within a year too. the bottom line is, you want low 12's, your gonna have to spend some cash. i think you should just do all the normal boltons first, get used to drivin it, then some small motor stuff, you know like cams and maby gettin your heads p&p'd, and i think, if you could drive then, i bet you'd be in the 12's. not low twelves, but 12's. after that, id go with a turbo setup, they seem to be the new hot ticket to these mod motors. after that, i could see 12's all day long.
dont spray tho.
racing has more to do with the driver then the car. i talked to a guy last week that has a 740rwhp car, and he cant manage anything below a 11.5. i asked him why, and he showd me his time slip with a 3 something 60ft time. he bought it that way and cant drive it worth a crap.

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please do us all a favor and never post in tech again.

DBMSTNG said:

please do us all a favor and never post in tech again.

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why not mister 380hp and 12.6's? i dont like nitrous. as stated, thats just me.
if he wants low 12's, hs gonna need atleast 420 at the crank. that would equate to about what you have right? you dont think he could hit low 12's?

slow96mustang said:

why not mister 380hp and 12.6's? i dont like nitrous. as stated, thats just me.
if he wants low 12's, hs gonna need atleast 420 at the crank. that would equate to about what you have right? you dont think he could hit low 12's?

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When you start questioning DBMSTNG you head down the wrong path grasshopper... His Mustang knowledge > 99% of the rest

Kilgore Trout said:

When you start questioning DBMSTNG you head down the wrong path grasshopper... His Mustang knowledge > 99% of the rest

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hey, he just told me to not post anymore. i aint gonna take that. im not calling him dumb, nor am i calling myself smart.
it is acheivable with nitrous. i just dont like it. as stated. i posted my oppinion. i wasnt saying, oh yeah, if you dont do that your a dumb a$$. i would never say that, cause i wouldnt want anyone sayin that to me. he pretty much said that tho. read the thread.

no offense to mr trout

here is my path to 12's

sticky tires nitto's with a nice set of welds
cat-back exuast,mid-pipe
cai
nitrous express 100shot
with all the safe stuff

i always run my car at full combat weigth(thats with my spare and tools in the trunk)

going to take a trip to the dyno to get the nitrous and a/f correct just to be on the safe side

You don't need a blower to run 12's.
From Modular Depot. 5 Components to a 12 sec NA GT.

http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?threadid=1877

1.) Power – If you listen to some old school drag racers they may say you need at least 300+RWHP to hit 12’s in most cars. In some heavier cars that may be true but fact is suspensions are more refined these days and cars don’t weight 4,000 lbs. Most PI headed cars will hit the 245-255RWHP mark with basic mods (Pulleys, Timing Adjuster or chip, O/R H or X, K&N or other type of high flow filter and although not a power mod…gears 4.10s or 4.30s). For a bolt on GT this is enough power to get the car into the 12s after you follow the other steps. Keep in mind more power will make it easier to reach your goal or help offset more weight (see next section) but it can be done with less.

2.) Weight - You basic 5 speed coupe without driver weights 3250lbs. So with an average driver weighing about 180lbs that puts your race weight at 3430lbs. At that weight and a power to weight ratio of .075 you would need 258RWHP to hit 12’s. Power to weight is the power of your car (rear wheel) divided by race weight of the car. Using my car when I broke into the 12’s first time I was making 246RWHP and had a race weight of 3250lb, which worked out to a .075 power to weight ratio or .075RWHP per pound of the car. From what I’ve seen a car can get into the 12s with a .075 to .080 P/W ratio. So if your race weight is 3430lbs then 3430 * .075 = 257.25RWHP. As long as you keep this ratio in the .075 to .080 range you are fine plus keep in mind you can drop weight instead of adding power. An example of this is a car with a 3000lb race weight could break into the 12s with 225RWHP (close to stock power on a GT).

Now I’m sure some of you are asking about weight reduction. Basic weight reduction would be rear seat delete, removal of spare tire, jack, tire iron…these would knock a good 70-80lbs from the car. Add a set of welds or light weight race wheels and you are looking at another 60-80lbs. For more information about specific weights and more ideas look here… http://users.adelphia.net/~mustang-...20Reduction.htm

3.) Suspension - I feel that this component has the most leeway so to speak. I’ve seen near stock suspension cars get good weight transfer. I honestly believe a car that meets the other requirements could hit 12s on the stock suspension. However those of you that want to get an edge should read on. First thing I would do is look at springs since most of us want a better stance but still want weight transfer. For that look at fox body 4cyl front springs I usually look to the junkyards for these but most buy stock replacements at a local shop (avoid Moog brand though they are taller than stock specs). For the rear end I go with fox body v8 rear springs cut anywhere from a ¼ to 1 coil to level out the car. Just keep in mind that it’s easier to cut too little than too much spring.

Next I would highly recommend a pair of sub-frame connectors welded in to tie the chassis together. Hard launches on slicks will twist the body and this will help keep it straight. Last piece to really help out is struts I went with Lakewoods because they are readily available and affordable but adjustables can be used as well if you have the budget for them. 70/30s and 90/10’s both work well and I stick with fox body specific struts since the car is lowered. Fox body specific springs are ¾” shorter than stock SN-95 springs so the lower fox body specific struts are shorter.

4.) Traction – I’ll cut to the chase here and just skip over street tires and drag radials and go right to slicks. Not that it can’t be done on these tires but it will take more power, more patience and much more writing on my part so we’ll stick to slicks. Cars in this weight range and power level only need a 26x8.5x15 ET Drag for traction. It’s close to stock tire height and is more than enough to make our cars hook on the track. A better suspension will result in better 60 foot times but even on stock suspension a good burnout on slicks will not spin unless the track is poorly prepped or fluids are on the track. Some people opt for cheap steel wheels which I don’t necessarily recommend since you are keeping extra weight on the axles. This opens you up for possible breakage so I would go with a weld wheel instead even if it’s a pair of used ones for track only purposes. Regardless a 15x8 with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern and 5.5 backspacing will fit perfect, or if you insist on a wider tire like a 10” then a 15x10 with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern and 6.5 backspacing will also work on our cars.

5.) Practice – This is one component that you can’t buy at any store, you can learn it from a text book and you can’t ask your friends about you simply have to get out there. I’m not saying everyone should be like me and hit every test and tune but don’t expect to make one trip and bingo your in the 12’s. I race on slicks for 3 months before hitting my first 12 second pass. Going to slicks alone was a big change that I had to adjust to before I got the hang of and learned to shift better, etc… Take your time, get comfortable in the car and have fun with it. Do that and you’ll achieve your goal.

CaliLifeStyle said:

You don't need a blower to run 12's.
From Modular Depot. 5 Components to a 12 sec NA GT.

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Damn it! I really wanted to post this especially after Mr. "You need 420hp at the crank to run 12s" posted.

You don't need to "spray the crap" out of the car. With a couple of boltons, tune and 75 kit with decent drs you can run mid to low 12's all day long without power shifting. That combo should give you 110-112mph pretty easily

nickthegenius said:

Damn it! I really wanted to post this especially after Mr. "You need 420hp at the crank to run 12s" posted.

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Sorry about that.