what does a clay bar do?

ok thanks i have first off megs #2 fine cut cleaner, megs #82 swirl free polish, #7 megs show car glaze and finally megs #26 high tech wax. Is that all a good combo for a full detail. also what pad should i use for each product. Someone said to double up the coats of the glaze or the wax is that true?

1999redcobra said:

ok thanks i have first off megs #2 fine cut cleaner, megs #82 swirl free polish, #7 megs show car glaze and finally megs #26 high tech wax. Is that all a good combo for a full detail. also what pad should i use for each product. Someone said to double up the coats of the glaze or the wax is that true?

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I've never used Megs' line up before, but I've read great things about it and that sounds like a good line up. It kind of depends on what type of corrective work you are wanting to do as far as what pad to use.

There are people that apply waxes and sealant's with a machine, but I don't. I do all my sealants and waxes by hand. I seem to get a more even coat without using too much product. I used a machine one time to put on a wax and I had to wash the car 5 times before the streaking went away from over-applying. I know it was probably my fault, but it's easier for me to apply by hand and you get no benifit by applying by machine like a polish. Plus, you can get by hand all of the places you can't reach with the machine.

Do you have a lot of swirls you are trying to get out? What kind of condition is your paint in? That's what I would look at before picking what pads I wanted to use. Basically, start with the least abrasive combo you can, and work your way up so you don't cause additional marring that wasn't needed. If you have some swirls you want to take out, I would start with a white pad (very light cut, good polishing pad) and the #82 and work a small area where the swirls are more predominate and see if that does it. If not, move up to an orange pad (light cut, good at swirl removing) and try again (those colors are Lake Country pad colors, I'm not sure of the cut of the other pads out there like Meg's pads). I just went and looked up #82 and it looks like it will work fine, just don't use to agressive of a pad at first. Again, work in a small area first and then step back and examine your results before moving on to make sure you like the results or maybe even change the process up a little before doing the whole car.

Also, you shouldn't have to ever "double up" on a coat of wax or sealant. If you apply it evenly the first time, it will be just fine. After it cures (8 to 24 hours depending on product), you could apply a second coat for added depth or shine, but don't apply a second coat immediately after. Some products are different and they say it's ok to do that, but I wouldn't.

Hope that helps!

ScottM said:

No prob.

I've got to ask, what prompted you to pick that username? I started laughing when I read it and my wife asked what was so funny!

Edit: By the way, I can't let Kooldawg have all the glory D), here's an old pic after claying, polishing, then a coat of Opti-Seal. It reflected even more it seemed the next day after the sealant cured.

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The stang came out sweet Scott! I also used the Opti-Seal quite a bit. Truely an awesome product! I also think it has a better look than the Zaino Clear Seal.

ya i have a 99 cobra and the paint is pretty good still but its not perfect so i think i should just beable to use the very light cut pad, then you just use the other pads for the others. Do alot of people put on sealents and waxes by hand or is that just your preferance.

justin said:

The stang came out sweet Scott! I also used the Opti-Seal quite a bit. Truely an awesome product! I also think it has a better look than the Zaino Clear Seal.

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Thanks Justin, I appreciate it! The pictures really don't do it justice, well, maybe they would if I'd take some in some decent lighting!

1999redcobra said:

ya i have a 99 cobra and the paint is pretty good still but its not perfect so i think i should just beable to use the very light cut pad, then you just use the other pads for the others. Do alot of people put on sealents and waxes by hand or is that just your preferance.

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From what I've read and learned, a lot of people put their toppers on by hand. After doing it both ways, I like it better by hand.

Wait, that didn't sound too good!

I generally put liquid waxes and sealants on with a buffer and paste waxes by hand. Yes it is basically just personal preference.

ScottM said:

Good deal, thanks for the info. I think I'll order me some when I need to replinish some other things and try it out. Thanks!



I totally missed the last part of this, no, it is not necessary to wax in between. I've heard of people waxing and then putting a sealant on afterwards or even vice versa, but the sealant probably won't bond properly to the paint because of the wax, so I wouldn't do it.

My steps would be...

1. Wash with 2 buckets, dry with microfiber, dress wheels, clean interior (don't forget the wheel wells, but use a different mitt for them!)
2. Clay bar entire car (probably once every 3 or 4 months or so, unless I get bombarded by a flock of seagulls or turkey voltures)
3. Polish with random orbital buffer and appropriate pad/compound combo depending on swirls or lack of swirls
4. Wipe off any dust from polishing
5. Clean windows with glass cleaner (no sense doing it after washing because of the dust from the polish)
6. Top with wax or sealant, possibly next day doing one more coat for added shine/depth
7. Step back and oogle over the pretty car

Edit: I forgot to add, this is pretty much my full detail list, I of course don't polish during every detail, I only polish around the time I clay, maybe a little sooner.

Everyone has their own routine they like to follow and different things work for different people, I just thought I would throw mine out there.

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Hi: Doesn't polishing take off micro-thin layers of paint/clearcoat? If so, shouldn't there be only so many times you polish your car in its lifetime?

Vin

TheVin said:

Hi: Doesn't polishing take off micro-thin layers of paint/clearcoat? If so, shouldn't there be only so many times you polish your car in its lifetime?

Vin

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I'm not entirely sure, but as little as I polish (every 6 months or so and not very agressively), I wouldn't think it would be a big deal. Justin might better be able to answer that though.

If you are not using an aggressive pad / polish combo, the process is taking less than 1 micron off of the CC. A typical factory paint has 85 microns of clear on it... that translates to a lot of polishing! Of course, around the edges and corners the clear coat tens to be thinner.

Thanks for the insight ScottM

kooldawg6 said:

Thanks for the insight ScottM

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No problem at all man!

Like I mentioned before, I'm not a pro by any means, I've just tried a bunch of different things and found what works pretty well for me, so I thought it might for others.

I'm actually going to do a full detail of a friends new Honda motorcycletomorrow (or should I say today). I told him I'd Opti-Seal it if he helped me rake leaves and he agreed! Sucker!

I used mothers clay bar on my Mach with great results.I used to see tiny black specs in paint but now they are gone.View attachment 357401