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What else to replace when doing clutch job?

  • Thread starter Thread starter nashvillebill
  • Start date Start date Nov 2, 2020
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nashvillebill

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Nov 2, 2020
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Nov 2, 2020
#1
  • Nov 2, 2020
  • #1
I have a '99 GT (160,000 miles) with a five speed and I'm about to replace the clutch. I was thinking that I should probably replace the rear crank seal when I had the tranny out, but what else should I replace? Are there trans bearings that wear out at this mileage? Is the oil pan gasket easier to replace when the trans is out?

Thanks for your suggestions, from your experience.

Bill
 

Potomus Pete

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#2
  • Nov 2, 2020
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Might as well change trans oil. Rear seal for sure
 
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TIGGER

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#3
  • Nov 4, 2020
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Only other thing I can think of is u joints. If your u joints are questionable then I would replace them while you have the driveshaft out.
 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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#4
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New flywheel?new Throw out bearing?pilot bearing?input shaft bearing retainer( steel one)clutch cable?
 
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nashvillebill

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#5
  • Nov 4, 2020
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I assume it's the trans input bearing retainer? I'll look into that.
 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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#6
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Yes
 
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MattMan02GT

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Someone please step in and correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe people have only had the Ford throw out bearings last any significant amount of time. Even ones from respectable clutch manufacturer's don't seem to last.
 
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Anytwosuited

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#8
  • Nov 7, 2020
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I just did this service in my '00 GT Vert at 160K. It sounds like you are doing this yourself? I had mine done by a local Mustang shop that is reasonable and they do good work. If you are having it done check around, my quotes varied up to 3X.

The clutch "kits" sold generally come with the pilot bearing and throw out bearing. Inspect the flywheel and have it resurfaced if necessary. Mine didn't need it at 80K but it did need it this time. That is the rub, machine shops aren't what they used to be. A good shops "relationship" with a good machine shop will save you time, trouble and money.

Fluids, of course, it is time to replace those. I'd add the rear end fluid too. Your are under there and already messy anyway.

If you are having it done and trust your shop I'd suggest this. The T-45 is a bit weak and good parts are getting hard to come by. A specialist can evaluate your T-45 and let you know where you stand. Mine is and has been troublesome since about 4K after the warranty ran out (original owner here). If I continue on with my '00 I'll be replacing the transmission sooner rather than later.

Your mileage may vary,
Paul
 
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zookeeper

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#9
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You mentioned replacing the rear main seal and pan gasket. If your car is leaking anywhere, even at that mileage or above you need to look at your PCV system. Excess crankcase pressure causes leaks but is controlled by the PCV valve. I had one pop out of the intake on my ‘88 GT and didn’t notice it for months. The car gradually started leaking everywhere and I only found it when I replaced the valve cover and intake gaskets. Replaced the gaskets, put the valve back where it belonged and it never leaked again from anywhere.
 
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nashvillebill

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Nov 7, 2020
#10
  • Nov 7, 2020
  • #10
Thanks to all of you for your input, advice!

I will be doing it all myself since I have a two-post lift and a transmission jack. I plan on having the flywheel surfaced, but I'll see what it looks like.

I'm also going to drop by a transmission shop and ask them to drive the car prior to doing the clutch. I may have them do any work they think necessary while it is out.

I'll also check the PCV.

Bill
 

zookeeper

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#11
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Yes, absolutely have the flywheel surfaced anytime you replace the clutch. Cheap insurance and no matter how nasty it looks, I’ve yet to see one not clean up. I have seen. Truck flywheels that were too thin to reuse but they’d been done multiple times. Good luck!
 
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Neuron

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OEM Cable and aluminum quadrant with firewall adjuster.
 
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nashvillebill

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Nashville, TN
Nov 17, 2020
#13
  • Nov 17, 2020
  • #13
Yes, it is easier to remove the oil pan when there is no flywheel/transmission. All I had to do was lower the steering rack (two nuts and one bolt), take two nuts off of the motor mounts, and then raise the engine about an inch. I didn't have to lower the K-member.
 

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Danny2v

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#14
  • Nov 29, 2020
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MattMan02GT said:
Someone please step in and correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe people have only had the Ford throw out bearings last any significant amount of time. Even ones from respectable clutch manufacturer's don't seem to last.
Click to expand...
I've been through 4 throw out bearings already, 1 OEM, 1 exedy, and 2 ford performance. None have catastrophically failed but they all seem to start squeaking only after a few thousand miles
 

nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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#15
  • Nov 29, 2020
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I must be easy on mine,I used bearing that came with clutch kit( no name ) lasted over 100'000 miles and never failed or made noise.I just replaced with another I'll let you know in 100,000 more miles.
 
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