What is a good H/C/I for a stock 302? and what kinda power do they make??

[juiced_94gt]

Well i think that if my 331 is blow im just going to get a stock 302 shortblock and probably sell the AFR 185's (if there still good) since they wont clear the pistons and get either Trickflow TW's or AFR 185's (whatever is better for the combo) and is the track heat manifold i have right now too much for such a combo, let's say with a TF stage 1 cam, (or what ever cam is a better choice that will clear the stock pistons, well im bummed out right now but i need to get it back on the road i hope it's not too bad but im expecting the worse.

 

[90mustangfan]

Wut happen, did you blowd your motor? Remind me of bubba the love spong..I blowd my motor...hahaha. No but seriously what happend to the ride?

 

[juiced_94gt]

Wut happen, did you blowd your motor? Remind me of bubba the love spong..I blowd my motor...hahaha. No but seriously what happend to the ride?

not sure just yet but the valvetrain checked out ok and it still knocks, it sounds like it's in the top end but it doesent miss so i don't know if it's bent valves.

 

[5spd GT]

Well your typical good h/c/i will net you 290-305rwhp. These numbers can vary to +40 more horsepower, or -40 horsepower less.

A lot of factors depends on rpm, compression, loss of accessories, and other 'machining tricks'. That is how you see guys with 340-350rwhp in a 302.

Combos proven to make in the 300rwhp range:

Trickflow H/C/I kits

AFR Heads, Custom cam, Performer or similar intake.

Of course this is with supporting parts: Injectors, MAF, TB, Exhaust.

I have the AFR heads with a custom cam, and it used to be with stock '93 pistons and it cleared a .560"/.556" cam, if you go by lift We all know that is a very small factor in p-v clearance.

 

[BlackVert]

I'd be bummed too, bro. Mine has been out of commission for a year now and I have dumped probably 10 grand on it, and it still is not on the road. It gets old after a while.

I have an engine building book where the guy dynoed a 302 with AFR 185s, a Comp XE-282 cam (with an 850 carb) at 447 horses. This was on an engine dyno, but I'm pretty sure they had forged pistons, so I guess that might not apply here.

How about getting the pistons fly cut so you could use 185s with them?

There is a guy on hardcore with a stock bottom end 302, an off the shelf comp cam (he won't say which one tho), some stage 1 twisted wedge heads, and a SysteMax who puts down 360 at the wheels. His car runs 10.7 in the 1/4 mile.

http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=10827

 

[juiced_94gt]

I'd be bummed too, bro. Mine has been out of commission for a year now and I have dumped probably 10 grand on it, and it still is not on the road. It gets old after a while.

I have an engine building book where the guy dynoed a 302 with AFR 185s, a Comp XE-282 cam (with an 850 carb) at 447 horses. This was on an engine dyno, but I'm pretty sure they had forged pistons, so I guess that might not apply here.

How about getting the pistons fly cut so you could use 185s with them?

There is a guy on hardcore with a stock bottom end 302, an off the shelf comp cam (he won't say which one tho), some stage 1 twisted wedge heads, and a SysteMax who puts down 360 at the wheels. His car runs 10.7 in the 1/4 mile.

http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=10827

Fly-cut?? do i have to take the pistons pff to do that or can the machine shop do it if i take the shortblock to them?? Dude talk about bummed out, i spent about 10k also and i only got 1k miles out of it, i dont even have a timeslip for the thing only a dyno sheet to show for it well speed costs money and it will run again just not sure what combo it will have, and i would love to keep the AFR's if i can.

 

[5spd GT]

Blackvert - I promise you that car doesn't get good gas mileage, his brakes are no good, and he has quite a bit of weight reduction. It is more to it than the little 'signature' he has

Juiced - You can have them flycut with the pistons assembled (in the shortblock). You can 'hack' it with a dremel yourself...

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

So the valvetrain checked out ok? The knock is on the top end, have you checked piston to valve clearance? Another stupid question, did you start the car with the valve covers off? Please take them off and start the car, make surt you put a piece of plastic between you the car and the heads, they squirt a good amount of oil. I'm asking this just to answer if your rocker is hitting your valve cover. If you have already done that, check for bent pushrods. I still think it's something stupid, the tune is safe enough, I just dont see it breaking things just yet.
Then again you never know.... What does the knock sound like? Is it rpm variable?

 

[Venom351R]

Id find out whats wrong with your current 331 and see what it would involve to fix it before you start to build a new motor.

 

[mojopony]

I've got the AFR165's with a GT40 intake and small Ultradyne cam. I did most of the other bolt on stuff also. MAF/TB/injectors/underdrives/exhaust/balancer/driveshaft/gears/etc. I've never had it on a dyno, but going by seat-of-the-pants it pulls way harder than my stock '06 GT. It doesn't take much to break the tires loose in the lower gears. I know that's pretty vague, but I had a 400HP (flywheel) Nova SS and my '94 GT while not quite as fast is almost as fast as the Nova was.

 

[StinkinLincoln]

Juiced, you aint the only one in that boat. im further in crap than you are.
i built my 331 myself and i just got the tranny rebuilt, i got 401 miles on it.
guess what, something is messed up in the bottom end and my bearings are getting eatin alive, and my tranny is dead. i spent 2,155 on the tranny alone and a grand total of 13-14K on this mustang, i have driven it like 600 miles and im about to pull the motor for the 4th time, im going to college full time and working as much as i can, im broke and got 14K plus my time sitting in my yard and i cant drive it. hopefully by next weekend ill have it out and see whats up with the bottom end and bring the tranny to the shop for them to fix.

 

[juiced_94gt]

So the valvetrain checked out ok? The knock is on the top end, have you checked piston to valve clearance? Another stupid question, did you start the car with the valve covers off? Please take them off and start the car, make surt you put a piece of plastic between you the car and the heads, they squirt a good amount of oil. I'm asking this just to answer if your rocker is hitting your valve cover. If you have already done that, check for bent pushrods. I still think it's something stupid, the tune is safe enough, I just dont see it breaking things just yet.
Then again you never know.... What does the knock sound like? Is it rpm variable?

The rockers arent hitting the valve covers for sure, i spun the pushrods when i redid the rockers but they seem fine, as a last resort i think im going to put new pushrods and lifters and fire it up one last time before i tear it down...i would think that with it beign tuned and not ran like hell (that was the first race) it would last more than 1k the knock is hard to desvribe, it'ds not faint at all by any means but it does sound like it's up top and it does seem to knock more when i rev it.

 

[juiced_94gt]

Juiced, you aint the only one in that boat. im further in crap than you are.
i built my 331 myself and i just got the tranny rebuilt, i got 401 miles on it.
guess what, something is messed up in the bottom end and my bearings are getting eatin alive, and my tranny is dead. i spent 2,155 on the tranny alone and a grand total of 13-14K on this mustang, i have driven it like 600 miles and im about to pull the motor for the 4th time, im going to college full time and working as much as i can, im broke and got 14K plus my time sitting in my yard and i cant drive it. hopefully by next weekend ill have it out and see whats up with the bottom end and bring the tranny to the shop for them to fix.

I know what your going through, i feel like i have a 10k paper weight

 

[StinkinLincoln]

i got a 13k pain in the ass lol
when working on the mustang, well becomes work, well it sucks. we all know that work sucks. its fun to drive the stang and kick ass, its not fun to work on the stang b/c its kicking ur ass!!!!!

*edit
sorry, done ranting lol needed to vent*

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

the knock is hard to desvribe, it'ds not faint at all by any means but it does sound like it's up top and it does seem to knock more when i rev it.

If you're getting proper lifter preload on all the lifters, that'll virtually rule out a valvetrain problem. I suspect the knocking may be due to a broken wrist pin in one of the pistons, and that could be the reason why you have oil blowby and high oil consumption.
Do a compression test of all the cylinders. If one cylinder's low, it'll be engine teardown time.

 

[rj95svt]

Let's say it is something in the bottom of the motor. I would look into what it would take to fix it. You might just need to have the crank turned buy one rod have it matched in weight hone the block and put it back together. You might not even have to do that much. It's probably a much better option than throwing away all the money you already have invested in that combo.

 

[GTA_V6_Mustang]

Juiced, This might sound like another dumb suggestion, but by any chance is it coming from the top front? Might be your timing chain. I had a similar issue with the stang before this one and people kept telling me its the bottom end it needs a new shortblock, and others would tell me it was the top end and i should just get a long block. Well "I rejected their reality and substituted my own" and found it to be the timing chain slapping the toasted guides under quick high acceleration and holding at mid to upper RPMS. Just my 0.02