WHAT IS GOING ON WITH MY CAR

headscam

New Member
Jun 10, 2007
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my 03 GT with P&P heads, VT stage 2 cams, 3 angle valve job, msd individual coils, BBK LT's x pipe and magna packs and BBK cold air and 3.73 gears

bold is the new stuff (just done)

with these mods my baseline was 265/290 which IMO is really low to begin with, then after several hours of tuning (a great tuner using sct hardware) - 271/294 - extremely disapointing.

Put a accufab plenum and throttle body on there that the tuner had laying around just to see and a JLT intake tube and HUGE air filter -

278 HP 305 TQ

Whats going on here guys? Somethings gotta be off. Does anyone have any ideas??? The torque curve seemed acceptable, but hp was dropping off pretty early.

In addition, after the tuning I went for a drive - only to come back to find my rear breaks glowing red, and billowing smoke????? What gives....ebrake wasnt activated......we didnt notice any wierd smells, noises, or see the brakes doing anything wierd on the dyno. I NEED HELP.

btw temperature was 102* with 30% humidity.
dynojet
 
Is your car an auto or a 5 speed? You have a similar setup to mine......I have an auto with full bolt ons....stg II heads and VT Stg II cams and HPS intake.........it put sown 288 and 294 on a dynojet in 77deg and 66% humidity.....my car was missing really bad from the EGR........if that is a 5 speed the numbers are low.....for an auto....not bad..........don't look at peak power as much......look at how much you make at 6250..??? mine made 60 more RWHP and 50+ more RWTQ at 6250 and actually pulls past that but thats where my shift points are set....still on the stock short block..........Peak power doesn't mean a whole lot to me....I know when you dump it or my stall flashes it jumps well over 300.......do a look over of all your componets......it could be possible that your brakes were binding on the dyno also......especially since your brakes were glowing.......put on some new pads, clean and relube the assembly and bleed your brake system.......could need some maintenance......

"ED"
 
Every car will respond differently to mods, so don't be disappointed. It's pretty damn hard to hit 300whp NA.

As for the brakes, I bet you hit a puddle of water or something. unless you were running it really hard and slaming on the brakes...
 
the brakes werent even being used hard at all. I have a 5 spd.

lv - half the mods as you..??? you mean i have heads and you dont? but you have throttle body, plenum, and thermo which i dont have. Not sure how you calculated that I have half the mods as you????
 
I made 292RWHP with full boltons and VT stg 1 cams all N/A. I know whats wrong though, you have a stuck break....thats killing your power. Its happened bfore to both beople on the dyno, and people at the track. Neither the dyno nor the track cause it, but its just a coincidence. Get that fixed, through on a JLT/TB/Plenum (those 3 mods are NEEDED on your app...otherwise your throwing away alot of power..the dyno wasnt showing as much of a gain as it would be due to the break problem) and you should make 310-315RWHP.
 
I made 292RWHP with full boltons and VT stg 1 cams all N/A. I know whats wrong though, you have a stuck break....thats killing your power. Its happened bfore to both beople on the dyno, and people at the track. Neither the dyno nor the track cause it, but its just a coincidence. Get that fixed, through on a JLT/TB/Plenum (those 3 mods are NEEDED on your app...otherwise your throwing away alot of power..the dyno wasnt showing as much of a gain as it would be due to the break problem) and you should make 310-315RWHP.

damn I would have never thought lol....good catch!
 
as I said I dont feel the brake thing was happening on the dyno, as wouldnt I of smelt, heard, or seen something going on back there....I happened to be paying attention to the rear wheels for most of the dyno runs and didnt notice anything......
 
Have you noticed your pads running uneven on any one wheel? If so, maybe the caliper piston is bad. To test this, take the breaks of, and get a piston depressor tool and try to depress it. If that doesn't work, the piston is locked.

Replacing calipers FTL :notnice:
 
You have a seized piston in your brakes somewhere as was stated above(not e-brake related). That is more than likely what caused your low numbers too...they were slightly seized during the runs but the time intervals between pulls allowed them to cool off enough to where you wouldn't notice it. Pull your rear calipers off and see how easy those pistons w/ rubber boot on them move in and out from the caliper. They probably don't move very well...heat it up and pop them out (be careful, hot grease + face = bad combo) and take some sandpaper or whatever that other type of sandpaper is called and clean both the piston itself and the chamber the piston slides around in. Relube, reassemble, good to go. Redyno w/ better numbers.

Same thing happened with my car about 2 years ago. I changed the pads on all brakes and took a quick trip down the interstate through town and noticed a burning smell. Pulled into a lot and walked around the car and my rear left pads were smoking. Checked the caliper and what I said above was the issue. Then noticed a weird whining noise about 2 weeks later when the car was slowing down w/out brakes on...checked the other side and that was seized up as well.