If you've got 3.55s, I'd save your money unless you go up to 4.10s. The rule of thumb when replacing gears is that if you don't go up at least two gear sizes, it's almost a waste. I agree with it completely.
Now I'd suggest doing Steeda UDPs and CMCVs. Now you'll need a tune for the CMCVs and I highly suggest Justin at VMP Tuning. It'll be $50 for a single tune file. I usually recommend Justin but I'm highly recommending him for the tuning of CMCVs. I've never seen someone tune for them better than him. No loss of part throttle power, no loss of mileage. I gained power all over the curve. Both of those will net you about ~12 rwhp.
I'd highly recommending getting a short throw shifter if you don't have one. I'd go with the MGW. I had a lot of buddies who tried to talk me into the Hurst because it was so good or so they thought. I spent the extra money on the MGW. Once you receive it and open the box you'll be completely impressed. Once you go for a drive, you'll be even happier. Once my friends drove my car with the MGW, they said it was hands down better than the Hurst. A few of them even switched to the MGW. Point is, do it right from the beginning. The only downside to the MGW is the price.
I'd also highly recommend getting the CHE K-Member Brace with Torque Limiters. I got the ones with rod ends and I kind of regret not getting the poly ends. I thought I'd need the rod ends with the way I drive but they do make a lot of noise on bumpy roads. I think I would of been able to get by with the poly ends now. After getting the MGW, I started missing third and couldn't understand why. The shifter was supposed to fix all of that. Well the transmission was under a great amount of deflection so after getting the CHE K Member Brace with TLs the problem was fixed. It's only ~$130 so it's money well spent.
No problem. The CMCVs mount underneath the intake manifold. All you do is remove the intake, pull the injectors, all the wires mounted to the manifold, etc and pull that off. Once that's off you take off the stock charge motion plates with the butterflies and motor. Remove the motor. Take the o rings off of the stock plates and put them in the new ones. After that just do everything in reverse. It comes with instructions so you're going to be alright. The reason why you're seeing two different prices is that you're looking at the billet plates from Steeda, you don't need those. They make a set called the econ plates, those are what you want. They are the same price. Ninosport is probably selling the Steeda ones anyways.
The tuner just plugs into your ODB-II port underneath the dash by the steering wheel. If you look you'll see a little black plug, it just plugs into that. Tunes can be sent via email. Once you receive them and save them, you use a program called Live Load which can be downloaded on the SCT website and you just load them on the device. It's easy.
Most tuners do it that way unless you don't know your PCM Code. If you don't know it, they send it to you so you can read it and send it back and than send you the tuner loaded with tunes. Once you know your code than you can have tunes emailed, easily. Tunes are only $50 from VMPTuning.com.
Also don't waste your money paying someone to install the CMCVs. It's only about a hours worth of work. Super easy, only need hand tools. I did mine on the dyno.
after ordering the jlt intake w/ sct x3, what should come next. i have about 1k left to spend.
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