What Next

[1-slow-5.0]

Ok I'm looking for some input on what I should do next? I have a 99% all stock 92 5.0 t-5 with a fresh paint job & Im just need some ideas on what to start with.. only mods that I know of is the gt40 intake "that's what I'm told it is anyway I'm not so sure myself but any input is welcome

 

[boostfrk]

Suspension...

 

[a91what]

Well what kind of budget do you have and what are you looking to gain?
The intake off of a explorer is basicaly a cobra intake. If you go to a junkyard to get one of these go ahead and grab the heads off of the engine as well. The 96 1/2 and lower engines have GT 40 heads. The 97 and up have GT 40 P heads. The P's make better power but require special headers due to the plug angle.
The GT 40 heads and intake are worth about 30+ HP... give or take.
Or grab some subframes for about 130 bucks and weld em in. These are a must before you get into power production.

 

[1-slow-5.0]

Definitely gonna do the sub frame connectors next.. and that's a pic of my bay not sure what's all done or not done I was just told its a gt40 intake... idk tho.

 

[boostfrk]

Definitely gonna do the sub frame connectors next.. and that's a pic of my bay not sure what's all done or not done I was just told its a gt40 intake... idk tho.

I'd get rid of that aftermarket intake as well. Go back to a stock airbox and tube, or at an absolute minimum a fender well intake system. The way it's currently set up you'll get terrible heat soak with that cone filter.

 

[a91what]

That is definantly a explorer intake. DONT make any changes to your intake tract setup. your car may have an aftermarket maf on it that is designed to be used with a conicle filter mounted directly on the maf. Do a little researching before you make any changes as this can cause some unsavory issues.....

 

[1-slow-5.0]

Yea its some kinda aftermarket maf don't remember without looking but it comes with interchangeable "tubes" and I know the car has been on a Dino before b/c of all the paperwork I found in the car after I bought it no number sheets tho :-( I know it has still has 2:73 gear... but idk what else is done looks like a underdrive pully set too.. how can I tell if the heads have had work? Or have been changed out? Is flashing the computer possible too? Only reason I ask all this is because even with the 2:73 high gear I'm blowing away other fox body's with a lot of bolt on's and 3:73 anyone have any kinda help with all that? Everyone around here say b/c its only got 53k original that's y it runs so hard.. I think they all are wrong.. thanks again for any help on this

 

[a91what]

You have a C&L maf on the car... this unit is designed to run the way it is setup so i would not make any changes to the intake tract.. check the heads and see if they have any (bars) on the front of them gt 40 heads have 3 bars that run verticly on the ends of the heads... this is the only way i know to tell the differance without pulling the head.
Also pull the maf housing and let me know what color is on the tube and ill let you know what size injectors the car is running.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

New rear end gears - 3.55 or 3.73 since you have a 5 speed.
Electric fan with 3G alt. upgrade. (frees up a lot of HP)
Subframe connectors.
Upper and lower rear control arms with new shocks.
New struts.

This will make for a very fun car that can handle decently.

 

[jrichker]

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD. It measures 45 ½” center of the front U-joint to center of the rear U-joint. You will need the U-joint, part #PUJ353 from NAPA. The Canadian NAPA pat number is 1-0134BF. It should bolt right up after the U-joint swap.

Note: This driveshaft is not an exact duplicate of the Ford Racing part. It is 3” in diameter while the Ford Racing part is 3.5” in diameter. There is no guarantee that the balance will be any better than the stock part.

Use a piece of string and wrap it around the driveshaft. Make a mark on the string where the ends overlap. Measure the length of the string:
On the 3" AeroStar driveshaft the string will be 9.42" or about 9 7/16" long.
On the Ford Racing 3.5" driveshaft the string will be 10.99" or about 11" long

*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/components.html Buy the TR70 for $40. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.