what pushrods do you recommend?
- Thread starter Billy8380
- Start date
SQUEEZE&STROKE
New Member
I just bought a set of comp cams ones. I got the thickest ones they make, but my spring pressures are crazy...
DO NOT just get a set of stock replacement.
Get a high quality chromemoly thick walled set.
DO NOT just get a set of stock replacement.
Get a high quality chromemoly thick walled set.
Any hardened aftermarket should do just fine. You're still running stock heads, so you should need one in the 6.250" range, IIRC. Pick up an adjustable pushrod and either a solid lifter, or weld the plunger in place on an old hydraulic lifter, so it doesn't collapse under tension. Then you'll want to measure what you get at zero lash with a good pattern on your valve stem.
blksn955.o
Founding Member
I have trickflow PR. They are nice but the measurement is off of the total length. They were supposed to be longer than the adj. and were shorter. Each company will probably measure them a little different.
SQUEEZE&STROKE
New Member
Very True.
Buy an adjustable length checker from the company you plan to buy the pushrods from. I have one from comp. I would be willing to loan it out, just pay shipping...AND I BETTER GET IT BACK!
the right pushrod is the correct length pushrod!
get a checker and adjust it to zero lash.
since your using stock heads, its a little trickier to adjust the rocker for the best pattern since your utilizing pedestal style rockers. you either shim the rocker to move the roller towards the exhaust side or mill the pedestals down to bring the roller tip towards the intake side. generally you want to roller just a TAD off center towards the intake side. the roller tip moves in an arc in relation to the centerline of the trunion, once the rocker pushes down the roller will move towards the center of the valve tip. the idea is to keep the roller as centered as possible. too much to either side promotes early valve guide wear as there is side load on the guides.
once you have that set, all you need is to get the right length pushrod that will put proper preload on the hyd lifter.
now take your checker and adjust it to zero lash, where all slack is take up, take your measurement and then add .030" this is a good preload number. then order your pushrods and bolt them down, its best to bolt each one down with that particular lifter on the base circle of the cam. it should bolt down and push the plunger in the lifter .030" (what we added)
with stock heads and headgaskets etc ( stock dimension parts) the pushrod will be around 6.250" like stated above. but there are alot of things that affect it, valve height, HG thickness, camshaft. once you start changing parts its reccomended to check and verify proper valvetrain adjustment.. dont fall into the myth that pedestal rockers arent adjustable and you just bolt them down. i used to believe thats and its all hogwash.
the whole adjustment process is made 10x easier with an adjustable stud rocker setup, you just need the adj pushrod to find the pushrod length you need, all of the adjustment is done with the pushrod length in a stud setup. with a pedestal setup the rocker is bolted down so you have to shim or mill the pedestals to get the rocker in the ideal spot where the roller is centered over the valve. on the stud setup the rocker simply held up by the valve spring and pushrod and pivots on the underside of the polylock
also i would investigate as to WHY all your pushrods managed to bend. something causes them to bend they dont just bend for no reason.
get a checker and adjust it to zero lash.
since your using stock heads, its a little trickier to adjust the rocker for the best pattern since your utilizing pedestal style rockers. you either shim the rocker to move the roller towards the exhaust side or mill the pedestals down to bring the roller tip towards the intake side. generally you want to roller just a TAD off center towards the intake side. the roller tip moves in an arc in relation to the centerline of the trunion, once the rocker pushes down the roller will move towards the center of the valve tip. the idea is to keep the roller as centered as possible. too much to either side promotes early valve guide wear as there is side load on the guides.
once you have that set, all you need is to get the right length pushrod that will put proper preload on the hyd lifter.
now take your checker and adjust it to zero lash, where all slack is take up, take your measurement and then add .030" this is a good preload number. then order your pushrods and bolt them down, its best to bolt each one down with that particular lifter on the base circle of the cam. it should bolt down and push the plunger in the lifter .030" (what we added)
with stock heads and headgaskets etc ( stock dimension parts) the pushrod will be around 6.250" like stated above. but there are alot of things that affect it, valve height, HG thickness, camshaft. once you start changing parts its reccomended to check and verify proper valvetrain adjustment.. dont fall into the myth that pedestal rockers arent adjustable and you just bolt them down. i used to believe thats and its all hogwash.
the whole adjustment process is made 10x easier with an adjustable stud rocker setup, you just need the adj pushrod to find the pushrod length you need, all of the adjustment is done with the pushrod length in a stud setup. with a pedestal setup the rocker is bolted down so you have to shim or mill the pedestals to get the rocker in the ideal spot where the roller is centered over the valve. on the stud setup the rocker simply held up by the valve spring and pushrod and pivots on the underside of the polylock
also i would investigate as to WHY all your pushrods managed to bend. something causes them to bend they dont just bend for no reason.
MattZ281LE
Founding Member
Setup your geometry with a pushrod checker and get the exact length from Smiths Bros. get a couple of extras for emergency. when using a solid lifter you must account for lifter preload on the plunger also when you switch back to the hyd lifter after the check. Better to be slightly loose on a ped system than too tight. (less preload)
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