what size is our stock door speakers?

the low fronts and the rears are the same size. i'm pretty sure they're 6x8s, but i think i've heard of some people fitting some 5x7s in as well, depending on speaker brand. the tweets are 2 1/2".

i swapped mine out on my 2000 gt vert about a year ago and was glad with the results. Not the easiest switch out in the world (especially with that POS amp under the cd deck), but it was worth it.

any ideas on what your gonna get? i know infinity makes a nice set of high/low end speakers so you can still use the tweeter mounts in the door.

it depends on the speaker company... not every 5x7 or 6x8 is the same size as another... sounds wonky but its true. you can do some 5x7, some 6x8, some 5 1/4, some 6 1/2 (with a slight spacer or baffle)

the tweeters were replaced with 1" on my car. i have no idea why he said they were 2 1/2... no way.

the only one i dont know about is the "bigger speaker near the floor" i dont have a vert so i really cant help there.

Torinalth

Mazda/Ford 6x8/5x7 size in all four positions in my Mustang. I replaced all four so I know this for a fact...

Also, Crutchfield's "What fits my car" website feature is quite useful for this kind of stuff. Do not actually buy from Crutchfield though, too expensive.

+1 6X8/5X7

stock is 5x7 in the door and rear. the tweets are larger like 2 1/2 or 3.

your best bet is just to buy a set of 6 1/2 separates and get an adapter plate IMO. unless you just want a fairly cheap repalcement.

I would probaly stay 5x7 in the rear as they are just fill. cheap and easy.

I sold the mach 460 and got a 5 channel amp and aftermarket deck as well. I got close to $200 out of the facotry head unit on ebay don't know if you still can.

night and day sound quality. I don't kow why the mach 460 sounded so bad bad. the infinity in my dodge quad cab I just crossed over the front door speekers and added subs and it sounds decent. I could not make the mach 460 sound very good.

You can go 2 ways with improving the sound of the system. You can replace speakers as some have done here or lay in some dynamat and add a sub. If you look at my sig you can see that's the route I went. My system sounds way better than stock and I have no rattles at all. Do remember to buy seperates only though. If you buy a combination speaker it will sound like crap because of the internal crossovers in the amps. The speakers themselves are 5x7 but the enclosures will take a 6x8. Use Crutchfield as the previous poster said.

Here's a great website that gives specs (including the 2.5" tweeters Torinalth) along with wiring schematics, removal, and installation procedures.

http://www.flemworld.com/Mach460/Mach.html

good luck!

they're supposedly 6x8/5x7's all around (keep in mind they'll both mount the same) it's considered ford/mazda, so alpine 5x7's will mount in the exact same holes as a rockford 6x8's.. so don't think you need one or the other

I put in 6 1/2 components in my front, and 5x7's in the rear.. if you want a good sounding system go with components up front IF you have an amp to power them, or just a good set of coax's.. IE kicker s80's, rockford power 6x8s, alpine type-r 5x7's.. the stock amp or an aftermarket deck will power them alright....

last year I had alpine type-x components in the front, alpine type-r 5x7's in the rear, alpine (xx) amp only did 75 rms to each channel (underpowered the type-x components).. 2 ultimate T2 12" in sealed boxes, ultimate t3100d amp, PG 1 farad cap

this year i have ultimate 6 1/2 t2 components up front, kicker s80s in the rear, alpine 75rms 4channel, alpine mrd1000, 12" kicker l5 ported box... just sold it to my friend, so ill be getting something new in july.


now.. with respect to the head unit

Alpine head unit - try for an older model 9853

be more concerned over the amp you get, than the speakers. you can make alright speakers sound alot better with a good amp, than a ****ty amp with amazing speakers.

dynamat, brownbread, or any of the sound deadeners actually make your car quiter.. but it will sound better - dynamat is expensive, brownbread is very cheap and is virtually the same in quality. the main parts in the mustang that rattle..

in the rear the cardboard top that holds your speaker grills, that rattles on the other plastic panels and the glass.. I just stuck random things, ie: black gloves, black cloth, just to act as a dampener between the contact points.

in the trunk, the metal "layers" will vibrate where the bolts are, so tighten all your bolts, nuts, etc in the back. the spoiler will vibrate to no end, along with your license plate.

with a loud car the vibrations you hear, are almost always coming from the trunk, so dont jump to the concluson that its in the passenger compartment.

by the way, that rear amp/speaker deck is a total waste of space and heavier than hell.

it weighs about 40 pounds, most of that is the plastic its made out of I swear. it also takes up about 6 inches of trunk height near the back of the trunk for possible sub usage.

I just have my 2 speakers mounted on the metal with brown bread to stop the high frequency rattling that would ensue... and with that I can fit sub boxes

in mustangs you're guaranteed to almost always need custom boxes.

in regards to your ipod, almost all decks come with AUX inputs, so you'd just get the ipod output (phono type deal) to rca.. the downside to that, is it has to go in the back of the deck....alpine's come with AI-NET which require like a $20 cable, and that connects directly to your ipod (that input is on the front of the deck)


Try to get matching sets, as it's usually balanced.... you won't have to worry about under or over powering, or not having good pre-outs for the amp you purchased.

if you have the money, go with alpine.. (NOT THEIR CHEAP DECKS! THEY LACK ON FEATURES WHICH WILL HURT SOUND QUALITY)

If you're looking for a cheap deck with good SQ and features, get a sony fx7710/fx7715. it has 4v preouts, 6 or 8 way equalizer, with treble/bass/sub settings. it looks good, and it works nicely. I actually enjoyed that deck more than my current alpine 9851 (grr) and it was also $200 cheaper.

most car audio stores.. just give them a price u want to pay. most car audio equipment is generally marked up twice the cost. so say for a 400 sub, say ull pay like 275, and most likely they'll do it.. because theyre still making 30-75 on cost, and it's helping their sales numbers.

McTeague said:

Mazda/Ford 6x8/5x7 size in all four positions in my Mustang. I replaced all four so I know this for a fact...

Also, Crutchfield's "What fits my car" website feature is quite useful for this kind of stuff. Do not actually buy from Crutchfield though, too expensive.

Click to expand...

Actually I like Crutchfield. Their prices are on par with best buy, CC, etc and you get free isntall kit, harness, tools, and shipping sometimes. I get the stuff from then in 2 days after the order.

McTeague said:

Do not actually buy from Crutchfield though, too expensive.

Click to expand...

+1,000

I also like alpines stuff as well. I like my Sony deck but if i had the money id definitly get a touch screen Alpine with some type x subs. You said your looking to get clairty. Id definitly go with a JL audio sub and JL amp. Most of their amps are underrated (power wise) so when the advertise 1000 watts they really mean it and then some, unlike a lot of other cheap brands. Theres other factors to look into when purchasing a sub amp. Always read the fine print, if the amp is rated at lets say 500 watts from 40hz to 20khz then all the frequencies below 40 will not be produced at a true 500 watts of power, this could cause the amp to distort the signal which could lead to your subs blowing easier. An example of that is I ran a 1200 watt (peak) amp to a sub thats recommended power was 2400 and i blew the sub because of the amps lack of power. Definitly get an amp with more power than you need you wont regret it. Also on a personal note i love my infinity subs they sound amazing. They hit pretty hard but I got them because I love how accurate they are.

Earth quake makes some nice home subs, i didnt know they were into car audio. Bostons Acoustics sound great I absolutly love the clarity and precision their home stuff offers.

I like JBL

for your speakers.. keep in mind, an averaged priced premium speaker, might not be better than the high priced regular speaker.

ie: low end infinity's won't sound better than higher end alpines - even though they'll cost the same.

audiophile components from infinity, mb quart (don't mistake mb quartz for mb quart. kicker bought out mb quartz, and is inferior to mb quart), focal etc. require the utmost quality in wiring, amp and decks to be wortht he money you pay for them.. which means for good sounding mids and highs (without bass included) you're looking at a couple thousand. when you can have a complete mid-end (high end to regular stereo goers) for that same price - and unless you're completely anal and can detect any discrepency in your music, you won't notice much of a difference.

so basically.. alpine type-r's properly powered will sound great for someone who's looking for a great sound with a general budget in mind.

if you got loads of money though... go for those q-lins's components or kappa perfects or focal xx's

spend $500-1000 on a set of speakers lol. another $100 on perfectly sealed/shielded wiring, and $800 on the ultra low distortion 4 channel amp