What size tranny coolers are you running?

351 82GT · Feb 17, 2006

Since I ordered my new Edge 3700 stall converter, I was wondering what size tranny cooler will suffice to cool my tranny? I DO have one now but I don't think it's very big.
I was looking at some of the ones on Summit and I was considering one that is 7.5x11
The one I have now is only like 4.5x11(guessing)

90mustangGT · Feb 17, 2006

Get the B&M Supercooler, 8x11x1.5" should keep it cool. I wouldn't even run it throught the radiator, just run the trans cooler lines directly to the cooler.

BMM-70270 or BMM-70272

The Shape · Feb 17, 2006

I have the B&M 19,000 GVW and it works great, but if I had it to do over I would have bought the 24,000.

bluevenom867 · Feb 18, 2006

Another vote for the B&M Super Cooler.

I got the 24,000,and then added a small pusher fan to the front of it later,but they do make a cooler/fan combo now.

Like Jason said,dont run it through the radiator.

351 82GT · Feb 18, 2006

Are you mounting the tranny cooler in front of the radiator with those plastic straps? Is that the best place for it?

bluevenom867 · Feb 18, 2006

351 82GT said:
Are you mounting the tranny cooler in front of the radiator with those plastic straps? Is that the best place for it?

We dont have A/C but yes,and I didnt use straps.

A piece of flat stock aluminum across the top and drill two holes on the bottom lip of the radiator support.

Nice and sturdy that way.

Michael Yount · Feb 18, 2006

If you mount it in front of the radiator, then you put the heat of the tranny right back into the engine coolant -- in other words, you need to have enough excess capacity in your radiator to reject the tranny heat too.

I'd look for a spot down low where the hot air coming off the tranny cooler DOES NOT pass back through the radiator, and certainly not through the a/c condenser. I mounted my engine oil cooler down low, with a deflector behind it to deflect the hot air off the cooler under the car instead of back through the condenser/radiator.

Also, it is possible to overcool fluids (the FL guys probably don't have to worry about this) -- the tranny operates best when the tranny fluid is the temperature it was designed to be, which is close to the coolant temp in the radiator. One way to assure that you're not overcooling the tranny fluid is to run the tranny fluid supply line to your new aux. cooler, then run the output line into the stock radiator cooler, then back to the tranny. Effectively you'll have the coolers hooked up in series - the aux. cooler first, the stock heat exchanger in the rad. second. That way if the aux. cooler overcools the tranny fluid, the heat exchanger in the radiator will 'heat' it back up a bit. It will also serve to keep the tranny fluid near the coolant temp when you're in traffic, and don't have as much airflow across the separately mounted aux. cooler.

90mustangGT · Feb 18, 2006

The heat discharged into the air will warm it up some, but it will probally still be rather cool, so all the heat won't go back into the radiator, most will still be in the air. It would be better not to run the trans cooler in front of the radiator, and for it to have it's own fan.

I don't like those zip-tie like strapps that go through the radiator, they peirced my old radiator and I have seen them rub thier way through fins on ohter cars as well.

Transmissions do not have any components that need heat to function correctly. Trans fluid properties make it where the viscosity stays very consistant, however it does change some due to temprature. In the classes I have taken, and all the trans manuals I have, as well as in my experience overcooling is never a cause of trans failure (unless of course the trans fluid actually froze) and the only side effect of a cold transmission is shift quality, it may shift a little firmer with a cold transmission. However, overheated transmission fluid is probally the leading cause of transmission failure. Heat destroys the transmission fluid's properties. 220*F is as hoter than you want to get, and over 250*F the fuild is burnt. At enging operating temp, 180-195*, your getting kind of hot, and after a pass throught he converter, it's borderline. Durring a race, it gets real hot. Powerbrake (stall check, WOT with the brake 0n) your car for 10 seconds, then put your hand on a metal transmission line before the cooler, hot ain't it?

bluevenom867 · Feb 18, 2006

90mustangGT said:
The heat discharged into the air will warm it up some, but it will probally still be rather cool, so all the heat won't go back into the radiator, most will still be in the air. It would be better not to run the trans cooler in front of the radiator, and for it to have it's own fan.

I don't like those zip-tie like strapps that go through the radiator, they peirced my old radiator and I have seen them rub thier way through fins on ohter cars as well.

Transmissions do not have any components that need heat to function correctly. Trans fluid properties make it where the viscosity stays very consistant, however it does change some due to temprature. In the classes I have taken, and all the trans manuals I have, as well as in my experience overcooling is never a cause of trans failure (unless of course the trans fluid actually froze) and the only side effect of a cold transmission is shift quality, it may shift a little firmer with a cold transmission. However, overheated transmission fluid is probally the leading cause of transmission failure. Heat destroys the transmission fluid's properties. 220*F is as hoter than you want to get, and over 250*F the fuild is burnt. At enging operating temp, 180-195*, your getting kind of hot, and after a pass throught he converter, it's borderline. Durring a race, it gets real hot. Powerbrake (stall check, WOT with the brake 0n) your car for 10 seconds, then put your hand on a metal transmission line before the cooler, hot ain't it?

Yup,and with trans that have a transbreak for racing,you NEED a large cooler and fan.

Otherwise,the trans break opperates poorly and can "jump".You could also just cook the converter on the line or when you going down the track and shut the motor off at the line.

Another thing i would like to add,is that particles (dirt,metal specs,etc.) SUCK for your trans.We got a B&M remote trans filter (looks just like a remote oil filter for you engine) and I feel so much better.When we had the pan off the PA C4 it was very,VERY clean.

90mustangGT · Feb 19, 2006

bluevenom867 said:
Yup,and with trans that have a transbreak for racing,you NEED a large cooler and fan.

Otherwise,the trans break opperates poorly and can "jump".You could also just cook the converter on the line or when you going down the track and shut the motor off at the line.

Another thing i would like to add,is that particles (dirt,metal specs,etc.) SUCK for your trans.We got a B&M remote trans filter (looks just like a remote oil filter for you engine) and I feel so much better.When we had the pan off the PA C4 it was very,VERY clean.

Wow, that would suck. If I was to get a nice auto, I would definatly have the full setup, remote filter, supercooler with it's own fan, and a TRANS TEMP GAUGE and I would keep an eye on it whenever getting on it.

Dirt and particals shouldn't ever be in your trans. Because it uses no fuels or outside air, there should never be such thing. The particals and dirt are sediments from cooked trans fluids and then resulting in your bands breaking down. One way to tell if a trans is on it's way out is if the fluid gets dirty fast. Once trans fluid cooks in the trans, the trans will never be the same. Yes you can flush it all out with new fluid and slow the decline some, but the damage is already done. There is no fix except a rebuild. SO NEVER LET IT HAPPEN.

dragnazz5.0 · Feb 19, 2006

i run two 7x15x1 coolers in front of my radiator and it doesnt run any hotter than before and the tranny fluid doesnt burn either.

What size tranny coolers are you running?

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