What to do, Bad Pro M sensor

[Mustang30240]

I bought a used 75mm Pro M MAF turns out the sensor is bad, I swapped in a stock sensor and it idles great. I have a 73mm C&L maf that I could just buy a new sample tube for and be fine. What would you all do?

 

[blackened88lx]

What does it do with the Pro-M in that makes you think it's bad. Pro-Ms are definitely not known for great quality. Is it programmed for the correct injectors??

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

send it back and have it gone over they will fix them at PMAS

 

[Flavadave4]

What does it do with the Pro-M in that makes you think it's bad. Pro-Ms are definitely not known for great quality. Is it programmed for the correct injectors??

Really?
From everything I have read they seem to be the most reliable...Mine has never given me anything but flawless operation.

OP- I'd sent it to PMAS and have it rebuilt

 

[2000xp8]

Blackened's sentence kinda reads like he didn't mean to put "not" in it. Sounds at first like he thinks it's still good.

Whether it needs to be fixed or not, use the pro m at all costs over a c&l.

 

[blackened88lx]

I was asking what he meant by "bad". I have heard a lot of bad things about the accuracy of Pro-M meters because of the way that they read the air. Not really of them going "bad", just the quality/accuracy.

 

[2000xp8]

Not sure where you read that, but pro m has pretty much been the only good meter for a fox body, pretty much ever.
The sampling tube method used by a c&l takes inaccurate to a whole new level.

 

[Mustang30240]

I can tell the sensor is bad because I put in the stock sensor I used on the C&L and it idles a lot smoother, When you unplug the Pro-M sensor the car idles the same

 

[Flavadave4]

Not sure where you read that, but pro m has pretty much been the only good meter for a fox body, pretty much ever.
The sampling tube method used by a c&l takes inaccurate to a whole new level.

LOL @ C&L

All things I have read point to the same thing, that the sample tube method that C&L uses is unreliable.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see if you get a code 66. If you do, then the MAF sensor element is defective.

If you don't gett a 66 code, then see the "Help me create the Surging Idle Checklist" at http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=698148
for help with your idle problems. The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.



Here's how to dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.