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What to Keep, Move, or Delete... ENGINE BAY QUESTIONS!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adam95GT
  • Start date Start date Jan 19, 2009
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Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006
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Burlington, NJ
Jan 19, 2009
#1
  • Jan 19, 2009
  • #1
Ok well if anyone is following my engine bay clean up thread i need to figure out some things...

What can i get rid of... Where have you moved things....(CCRM, FUSE BOX)

Can i get rid of the ABS...
What about the smog...(will i be able to pass emissions in NJ)
The AC is getting tossed...

Pics would be nice guys!


Also wanted to know if anyone had an extra harness or pieces sitting around... it would help with my wire tuck.

Thanks,
adam
 

ProKiller

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Jan 20, 2009
#2
  • Jan 20, 2009
  • #2
i moved my CCRM to the passenger fender and removed the smog and EGR as well as the charcoal canister.

thought this was a really neat install....
 

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inphiniti

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Mar 15, 2003
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Jan 20, 2009
#3
  • Jan 20, 2009
  • #3
i hear deleting the motor saves a hell of a lot of weight!
 

Adam95GT

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#4
  • Jan 20, 2009
  • #4
inphiniti said:
i hear deleting the motor saves a hell of a lot of weight!
Click to expand...

The weight savings is just a bonus... i want it eye pleaseing
 

divit250r

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Jan 21, 2009
#5
  • Jan 21, 2009
  • #5
inphiniti said:
i hear deleting the motor saves a hell of a lot of weight!
Click to expand...

Especially if you take out the cooling system with it, no need for coolant if there's nothing to cool... lol
 

Adam95GT

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#6
  • Jan 21, 2009
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I was hoping for this thread to be serious...
 

divit250r

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Jan 21, 2009
#7
  • Jan 21, 2009
  • #7
Fair enough, sorry for the joke.

If you don't drive the car in the winter, you can dump the heater core and heater lines.

ABS should be able to be removed, but you'll get a light I'm sure. You will probably have to run new brake lines in the process though, just fyi.

If you're going for ultimate weight removal, you could toss the brake booster and get a manual M/C too.

Are you doing this for better times at the track or just to look 'cleaner' under the hood?

Scott
 

Adam95GT

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#8
  • Jan 21, 2009
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divit250r said:
Fair enough, sorry for the joke.

If you don't drive the car in the winter, you can dump the heater core and heater lines.

ABS should be able to be removed, but you'll get a light I'm sure. You will probably have to run new brake lines in the process though, just fyi.

If you're going for ultimate weight removal, you could toss the brake booster and get a manual M/C too.

Are you doing this for better times at the track or just to look 'cleaner' under the hood?

Scott
Click to expand...

Cleaner look under the hood. ABS is already going we are going to make custom lines... we have to pull the dash to replace the heater core mine is bad. so we are taking the whole abs system out... so no lites there... Im gonna keep the heater cause the AC is going and i need atleast one way to defrost.
 

ProKiller

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#9
  • Jan 21, 2009
  • #9
you can convert your washer fluid tank into a coolant overflow tank and then remove the stock one. of course that means now washer fluid.

basically your already removing all the stuff you can. your next thing is to replace with lighter stuff like aluminum/carbon fiber parts.
 

Adam95GT

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#10
  • Jan 21, 2009
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ProKiller said:
you can convert your washer fluid tank into a coolant overflow tank and then remove the stock one. of course that means now washer fluid.

basically your already removing all the stuff you can. your next thing is to replace with lighter stuff like aluminum/carbon fiber parts.
Click to expand...

The aluminum heads and tubular k should shed some weight... im getting rid of the washer fluid tank already... but since it is smaller i might keep it for a coolant overflow mounted in the inner fender

A+ thanks for that idea man.... do you really need an overflow... i mean if the pressure gets too high i need somewhere for the coolant to go... but how much room is really needed... Does anyone know normal temp b4 expansion IIRC the T stat opens at 180.... and if i knew how much coolant is need in the system i could calculate the thermal expansion of the water.... Thus giving me the amount of increased volume. and make an appropriate sized overflow for the job...
View attachment 276211
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
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Jan 21, 2009
#11
  • Jan 21, 2009
  • #11
Hissin had posted his replacement for the overflow tank, he just used a PVC pipe just big enough to fit the low coolant sensor & cap.
 

Adam95GT

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#12
  • Jan 21, 2009
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Chythar said:
Hissin had posted his replacement for the overflow tank, he just used a PVC pipe just big enough to fit the low coolant sensor & cap.
Click to expand...

Ill have to check that out
 

Dino Dino Bambino

15 Year Member
Jun 13, 2007
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Jan 22, 2009
#13
  • Jan 22, 2009
  • #13
I have limited knowledge about the heating and AC systems so can anyone tell me if I can either bypass or remove the heater core and still be able to use the AC? It doesn't get cold enough here to use the heater but I definitely need the AC from April to October.
I'd like to remove some weight and clean up the engine bay by removing the heater lines.
 

Husky44

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Sep 27, 2006
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Jan 22, 2009
#14
  • Jan 22, 2009
  • #14
Adam95GT said:
Does anyone know normal temp b4 expansion IIRC the T stat opens at 180.... and if i knew how much coolant is need in the system i could calculate the thermal expansion of the water.... Thus giving me the amount of increased volume. and make an appropriate sized overflow for the job...
View attachment 275851
Click to expand...

Dude, you scare me.

If I had to do that much math to make a part for my car, I'd drive an Accord. At least I think that's math... If it's any help at all, your "6's" are backwards.
 

1987Rock

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Jan 23, 2009
#15
  • Jan 23, 2009
  • #15
Husky44 said:
Dude, you scare me.

If I had to do that much math to make a part for my car, I'd drive an Accord. At least I think that's math... If it's any help at all, your "6's" are backwards.
Click to expand...

I agree...I had to do crap like that in my engineering classes I suck at math and couldn't ever relate it to cars, so I'm not an engineering major any more.

If you're not gonna drive it in the rain, you could delete all the windsheild wiper stuff and just put Rain-x on the windshield for the occasional unexpected downpour.
 

Adam95GT

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#16
  • Jan 23, 2009
  • #16
1987Rock said:
I agree...I had to do crap like that in my engineering classes I suck at math and couldn't ever relate it to cars, so I'm not an engineering major any more.

If you're not gonna drive it in the rain, you could delete all the windsheild wiper stuff and just put Rain-x on the windshield for the occasional unexpected downpour.
Click to expand...

thats only minor physics/chemistry. im a chem major.
 

StinkinLincoln

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Dec 9, 2006
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Jan 24, 2009
#17
  • Jan 24, 2009
  • #17
ProKiller said:
i moved my CCRM to the passenger fender and removed the smog and EGR as well as the charcoal canister.

thought this was a really neat install....
Click to expand...

i really like the way that looks!
 

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Adam95GT

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#18
  • Jan 24, 2009
  • #18


this is what im dealing with.. i dont think i want to see that ugly box of fuses lol
 

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MysteryMachine

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Jun 21, 2003
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Jan 24, 2009
#19
  • Jan 24, 2009
  • #19
wow. I want to do mine like that when I get around to putting the 514 in. Here in PA if you remove the emissions stuff (smog pump and all that) you will fail. Not sure how it is in NJ but just a thought for ya.

A lot of guys put their fuse boxes in the fender. If you ever need to change a fuse though you gotta take your wheel off and remove the plastic wheel well thing. Sounds like a total pain in the ass
 

Dagz

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Jan 30, 2009
#20
  • Jan 30, 2009
  • #20
I am also in the process of doing the same thing. If you cut a hole in the drivers side apron you can fit the fuse box and wiring through and mount it in the inner fender. I found a site called MustangAddiction.com. he shows some ways of cleaning up the egine bay and smoothing everything out under the hood. there are some good pics there I reccommend you check it out first.

Also I heard you have to extend the passanger head light wiring after you relocte the wiring to the fender. As for the wiring that is on top of the rad apparently can go underneath the rad.

I have also seen guys use windshield washer hose with a slit down the middle to go around the sharp edges of the holes you cut in you apron

The ccrm can be moved to the inner fender aswell

If I think of anything else I will let you know.
 
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