What Valve Spring Tool To Use?

gnx547 · Jun 15, 2013

I'm trying to remove the valve springs and I have a valve spring tool but it does not compress the top part of the spring so I can remove the keepers. I'm thinking the part that compresses on top of the valve spring should be flat like the one from Summit. Is this the right valve spring tool I'm using?

Or is this one from Summit the correct one to use?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/li...FWJlMgodtmYAgg

MFE92 · Jun 15, 2013

the one you're using is fine, just compress it more, and make sure there's something under the valve to keep it firmly in place while you do. If the retainer isn't moving down and releasing the keepers, it's because they're stuck, like they always are. Try giving the retainer a few taps with a hammer and they should come loose. If not, back the compressor off, put a socket on top of the retainer, and give it a mighty smack with a hammer, then try the compressor again. BTW a magnet-on-a-stick comes in real handy for getting the keepers out once they're loose.

mikestang63 · Jun 15, 2013

As always good advice from MFE...Couple of things to add

Make sure the valves are closed and that you have either compressed air in the spark plug hole to keep the valves from dropping, or the old school method we used back in the day of stuffing rope in the spark plug hole to keep the valves in place. Obviously the shop air is the best method.

Also, after you have the spring reassembled and removed the tool, with the valves still held in place give the spring a few good taps with the plastic hammer. Better to know the retainers were not seated properly at that time than later.

Gearbanger 101 · Jun 16, 2013

mikestang63 said:
As always good advice from MFE...Couple of things to add

Make sure the valves are closed and that you have either compressed air in the spark plug hole to keep the valves from dropping, or the old school method we used back in the day of stuffing rope in the spark plug hole to keep the valves in place. Obviously the shop air is the best method.

Considering his head is sitting on what looks like his coffee table, I'd say that method of valve removal doesn't apply. The method you described above is for removing the valve springs with the heads still on the engine.

mikestang63 · Jun 16, 2013

Gearbanger 101 said:
Considering his head is sitting on what looks like his coffee table, I'd say that method of valve removal doesn't apply. The method you described above is for removing the valve springs with the heads still on the engine.

lol,. thats what you get for replying at 11pm on Saturday. Didn't look at the picture close enough. He should still rap the assembled spring a few times to make sure the keepers are in place.

7991LXnSHO · Jun 16, 2013

I have a NAPA spring compressor that compresses when you fold down the handle. It works but yours is nicer. Good advice on the retainers all around. I have used shop air, but will try the rope next time. I would hate to drop a valve.

As far as the table, I thought he was using a new maple block. It is lightweight and recycle able.

gnx547 · Jun 16, 2013

I tapped the retainers with a socket and it worked. I got all the valves removed and I will be cleaning them all up and lapping them. And how can I tell if a valve is bent? Is there a method I can do to determine if a valve is bent?

7991LXnSHO · Jun 16, 2013

Psychological evaluation will usually tell if it something is bent.
A run out gauge while rotating it or a straight edge and feeler would be other, quicker, appropriate tools.

Gearbanger 101 · Jun 16, 2013

You might even be able to tell when lapping them. If the valve has an irregular ring around it where the lapping compound is and seems to ride higher up the valve face on one side, than it does the other, it may indication damage. Why, are you under the impression these valves made contact with the pistons at some point?

Inspect the valve and seat faces closely when you clean them up. If you see any excessive pitting on either, or are unable to make out the individual cuts in the seat from the previous valve job, you'd be better off to suck it up and send it out for a fresh valve job. Lapping bad valves won't last long. The only way to know for certain they'll last is with a fresh cut.

gnx547 · Jun 17, 2013

No, the valves did not make contact to the pistons. I have a slow leak in one of the combustion chambers. I put water in the combustion chamber and all but one held water. The one leaking is a slow leak and the valves seals look new on the heads. So I want to do a light valve lapping and see if it seals. And at the same time I want to inspect the valves to make sure they are 100 percent straight.

MFE92 · Jun 17, 2013

first thing I'd do is roll each one of them on a very smooth surface and look for any wobbling.

mikestang63 · Jun 18, 2013

7991LXnSHO said:
Psychological evaluation will usually tell if it something is bent.
A run out gauge while rotating it or a straight edge and feeler would be other, quicker, appropriate tools.

"Psychological evaluation"? lol This some new technique?

What Valve Spring Tool To Use?

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What Valve Spring Tool To Use?

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