What's better, Dry or Wet ZEX Nos????

stunner6910

New Member
Oct 31, 2003
580
0
0
south texas
Because of another thread i have going, i have decided to buy the ZEX kit instead of the stall, but what's the difference between the dry and wet kit and what's better? i can get the kit brand new for under $500 so i think it's worth it.
 
The dry kit only pumps in nitrous and uses your stock injectors to pump more fuel depending on bottle pressure etc. where the wet kit actually pumps in nitrous and fuel. Im not sure about the zex wet kit in particular but most have two seperate sylinoids (sp?) one for nitrous and one for fuel. I've heard the Zex dry kit is the best and safest because it monitors bottle pressure and heat to determine how much extra fuel to use. And the installation is supposed to be really simple because there is only one box to mount not two seperate sylinoids. I would say just upgrade your fuel pump if you havent, get and AFPR and get the dry kit.
 
No the dry one. It uses the computer to determine how much fuel your going to need and then bumps up f/p when needed. Really simple and safe since your not running fuel through your manifold like the wet kit will.
 
stunner6910 said:
ok, so i could probably install the kit. i'll speak to gcomfx to see what he says,
thanx

Yeah he has all the info as far as retarding the timing and gapping the plugs. But as far as the install it will be cake. That's what is so great about it.

Good luck! I'll be getting the same kit as soon as funds permit.
 
GCOMFX told me he runs it like that all the time just so he is ready whenever he wants to run the NOS. But it will hurt performance some when your not using it. I would probably wait till I was getting ready to head to the track and then retard the timing instead of running it like that all the time. But he told me he runs his at 6* for daily driving without problems.
 
The bottle warmer helps get the nitrous up to proper operating temperature quickly. I forget what that temp is but thats what its for. As far as unexpected street races what you need is a remote bottle opener and a purge valve for affect. Nothing like making a guy sh** his pants when a huge nitrous cloud comes out of your hood at the line. Plus it actually serves a purpose for getting all of the air out of your lines for a cleaner shot of NO2
 
that would be pretty cool. i might regret asking this, but would it be too much to set up a purge valve. about the remote bottle opener, i have a rear seat delete kit and am planning on settin it up on the so i'll be able to reach the bottle with no problem. wait, is that safe or should it go in the trunk???
 
Hey guys.... Looks like I need to add to my Zex tutorial for some of these questions. :D

I use the Dry kit because that is what was available when I bought mine.

Personally would go for their new wet kit now. To make sure my car doesn't detonate I have to run 43 psi on 91 octane gas and 6* timing.

My car shows a rich condition and the CEL light will randomly come on. To make it stop I drop my fuel pressure to 39 psi. The new wet kit would solve this problem as the Zex kit can only bump your fuel pressure so much from the idle setting. Which BTW - it took it to 80+ on the dyno!!!

The thing you need to think about is what size of shot do you want to use? I ran the 75 shot about 6 months. When I tried the 100 shot, that lasted a few months, before I went to the 125 shot. I wouldn't spray above 100shot with the stock setup. I could tell my car needed the bigger fuel pump and adj. regulator no matter where I put my timing.

My car has 165k miles on it and I'm embarrassed to count the numbers of bottles I've gone through. I was buying 2 bottles a week for a while. :D The stuff is definately crack for your car. Very addictive.

One question is, how easy is the kit to "hide" -- No offense to the guys out there with the STEALTH kits.... I've been around juice enough over the past 2 years to confidently tell if someone has used it. No need to look under the hood.

One whiff as the car screams across the finish line and you can tell it's there. It's worse without cats... but you can smell it on my car with cats and full exhaust emisions. So if you can only hide it when you are NOT using it Why bother with relocating things and covering the hoses in black tape, and so on?

They call it torque in a bottle for a reason. It's really hard to get THAT much torque out of any other power adder that doesn't "scream" look at me under your hood. Such as a turbo or supercharger. You can't hide those very well either. LOL

My car will be back on the road in 2 weeks. I'll be making some videos when it is.... on and off the bottle. Plus I'll do a run down of where and how I hooked it all up. :nice:
 
The night we went to the track (Movies page linked above)... we didn't retard the timing at all. Which is what the Manual said on the 75 shot.... however I had no way to up my fuel pressure at the time. I bet I could have bumped the fuel pressure a few psi and got better results than dropping the timing a degree or two.

So a fuel regulator is a definate good idea even on a small shot. :nice:
 
Just make sure you get a good pump with a dry shot, my ZEX DRY kit made good numbers at the [email protected] to a [email protected] on the 100 pills with 900-950psi in the bottle, sprayed right off the line and never looked back, was alot of fun. Untill the 3rd run, where my pump hesitated just a little causing my mix to go WAY lean casuing the piston to slap the hell out of my plugs demolishing them. But I am slowly getting faster and faster with this new 01 Motor, so I am good, no more nitrous for me.
 
As far as the timing thing goes, I ran a MSD digital6+ they have a feature that when activated (or given a 12v source) the box retards timing by an amount you set. That way I could run around N/A at the 14* and then when I turned on the n2o the power wire also powerd the box and bam down 4*, also the digital6 has all the features of the 6a and 6al boxes, there is also a 2 step deal, and a dial for cold startup retard or valet(sp?). cool box.

I acutally just traded it for a 6al and $40 as I am getting a tweecerR/T and will make a tune without the timing to switch to (and if I can slow the adv. I will do that too in order to get a killer 60ft.).

I also sug. reading this months MM&FF (or was it 5.0) article on fuel press. (fuel pressure forensics(sp?), it tells about the pros and cons of higher press, and the effects on inj, and pump output.