hotmustang331 said:
Fixed
Exibit A:
Bench racer.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4156236#post4156236
shows how little he knows about the 4.6L, rods are even weaker than the crappy pistons.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4156236#post4156236
"99+'s will fry the CPU if you let a check engine light stay on for more than 8hours"
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4146186#post4146186
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4148837#post4148837
you should chang e you name to "more misinformation than the Iraqi information minister" "There are no troops in bagdad!!"
A guy on the Mach1Registry just lost his motor to nitrious.. Fact is, nitrious isn't as safe as a lot of people want you to believe. I've seen more posts lately about people blowing something up while on giggle gas than superchargers.. "Get a safe tune" yada yada yada.. Whatever.. Anytime you stress a motor way beyond what the designers intended theres a chance something will break. May be years, may be tomorrow..
I just brought another Mach with an auto I love them so much. My son took over payments on my 02 GT with 85mm C&L and a UPR shifter.
We decided to go out on a country road and air out his GT a little and the Mach. Me in front 15mph roll he told me he stayed with me good in 1st but once he hit 2nd I was gone and that's with a car with 350 miles on it, just wait until it gets 2k on the motor and it losens up like my 03 did
I liked my GT but the Mach is a whole different car, it's very fast but some drivers aren't. It will take quite a few mod's to run with one they are .6 to a full second faster than my GT was (both being 5 speeds), a perfect run with the GT and a bad run in the auto it may be close. You just never know some think all they need to do is put the pedal to the floor.
We decided to go out on a country road and air out his GT a little and the Mach. Me in front 15mph roll he told me he stayed with me good in 1st but once he hit 2nd I was gone and that's with a car with 350 miles on it, just wait until it gets 2k on the motor and it losens up like my 03 did
I liked my GT but the Mach is a whole different car, it's very fast but some drivers aren't. It will take quite a few mod's to run with one they are .6 to a full second faster than my GT was (both being 5 speeds), a perfect run with the GT and a bad run in the auto it may be close. You just never know some think all they need to do is put the pedal to the floor.
No question a mach will run some impressive times... My 12.66 run was with exaust,cai and built rear on BFG DR's.
My car on the Dyno put 278 to the rear and I ran a 13.5 with a crappy 60' bone stock.
I don't think you are going to run with a mach with just a few bolt ons unless the mach driver it a tard. I think with DR's and full bolt on's you will give a stock mach a good run...
My car on the Dyno put 278 to the rear and I ran a 13.5 with a crappy 60' bone stock.
I don't think you are going to run with a mach with just a few bolt ons unless the mach driver it a tard. I think with DR's and full bolt on's you will give a stock mach a good run...
LOL,bench racer my butt 98 gt punk.I have seen stock GTs go against stock Z28s,have riden in both and have driven both,so dont even go there buddy.As for my spelling,I type too fast and sometimes skip or type wrong words.Your the one thats starting to sound like a ricer,because they are the ones that are low enough to start bringing up your typing when you make them mad,so do you still have that civic or did you trade it in for the 98?The rods may be weaker than the pistons,but I am MAINLY refering to higher milage engines,where the RINGS ARE weaker than the pistons and rods.Man you must be new to the hotrod world if you think its safe to put NOS on a car with over 75K miles.Just to confirm what I am saying,I will tell you what the owner/operator of a local speed shop told my cousin when he tried to put nitrous on his 87 supra with 150K miles this may not be EXACT word for word but the main point is the same.He said that he should not put over a 50 shot of nitrous on his car because it will probably blow the rings the first time he hit it,and that it is dangerous to put on a 100+ shot on ANY car with over 50-75K+ miles....SO let me ask you,do you think that you know more than him????CRAP NO.Also he has ownd it for quite a few years,so he is NOT new to the hotrod game.No for the check engine light thing,I was told that by a local mecanic,and I STATED,"A local mecanic told us that,so not sure if its true but just thought I would warn ya.".HMMM so far you have only proven to me and everyone else that you really don't know anything and that you are retarded.J/K.The point is,that this is my opinion about it,and thats yours.Everyone has had different experiences with nitrous,and noone can really say that your car will break down after this many sprays,I am just saying that it can screw up your engine,but when and where is unknown.Now here is something that we can both agree on,that nitrous is NOT going to extend the life of your engine,but it IS the BEST bang for your buck...agreed?
codyGT said:
Lets do a little math shall we? Lets assume 16% drive train loss.. Ok? So if a car is putting down 289.2 RWHP, you then add 16% to get your crank HP.. So that is 335.5 crank HP.. Sorry I was 4.5 HP off, I did it quickly in my head. Besides, that dyno was done on a very hot and humid day, I am sure I could squeeze out a bit more HP on a cooler day.. Hell, some people use 17% drivetrain loss, some use 15%.. So I just go with 16.. 17% would be over 340.. Anyways, not important.
Machs get into 12's with just DR's.. Maybe you cannot drive worth a damn..
MAC[H]Z said:
I have, Richard Wilson on the Mach 1 registry claims to have done it on street tires, and the guy isn't some BSer.. Several Machs have run low 13's.. Just like several GT's have ran high 13's.. While not the average, it can be done. Hell, I am an average driver and I got a 13.2..
If you want to beat a Mach, just refer to Bill Putnam's writeup on how to build a 12 second N/A GT.
The question is basically, how to get an NPI GT to run low 13's/high 12's.
PI swap, proven bolt-ons (full exhaust, pulleys, timing adjuster), slicks, some weight reduction (spare tire, rear seats, front swaybar), and PRACTICE.
More power needs less weight reduction, more weight reduction needs less power.
As for suspension, the stock suspension doesn't look that great, but the weight transfer is pretty good. New control arms will give you a decent setup to start out with.
The question is basically, how to get an NPI GT to run low 13's/high 12's.
PI swap, proven bolt-ons (full exhaust, pulleys, timing adjuster), slicks, some weight reduction (spare tire, rear seats, front swaybar), and PRACTICE.
More power needs less weight reduction, more weight reduction needs less power.
As for suspension, the stock suspension doesn't look that great, but the weight transfer is pretty good. New control arms will give you a decent setup to start out with.
MachOut said:
Yet again, we need a math lesson on Stangnet......
A 16% drivetrain loss would be 84% of the flywheel HP.
.84 X FWHP = 289rwhp
Therefore, FWHP= 289rwhp/.84
= 344 fwhp
You can't "add 16%" to get fwhp
I see these false HP calculations come up all the time on here.
I'm not trying to flame anyone, but come on guys, we learned algebra in school for a reason.
bennyjammin said:
Cool, you just proved my point even more than. Haha.. Well, math I've always been good at. And I even questioned the guys at the local shop about their methods but they insisted that is how you figured it. So I went with it. Being a Comp Sci major at UCLA, I had a lot of math
Ok, 344 HP then.. Good great!
Thanks for the input Gino...GinoGT said:
I'm hell bent on beating this kid one way or another. He hasn't called me out for a race (yet) but his arogance when talking to other people including myself kills me. I guess I have no choice but to go PI heads than. Now the search for a cheap set begins (again)