Whats it take to get into the 12 sec barrier.
- Thread starter Chefskeez6
- Start date
hognutz
New Member
you may wan't to elaborate what the MA inspection is.
there is more than one way to run 12's. good suspention and slicks with a stout rear and you don't have to add as much hp to hit the 12's.
I would post some of you goals with the car so someone can help you easier.
like are slicks and option? do you want to hit 12's on street tires? Are you willing to lose some weight in the car or do you want it just the way it is? all these factor in.
there is more than one way to run 12's. good suspention and slicks with a stout rear and you don't have to add as much hp to hit the 12's.
I would post some of you goals with the car so someone can help you easier.
like are slicks and option? do you want to hit 12's on street tires? Are you willing to lose some weight in the car or do you want it just the way it is? all these factor in.
StngStr
Member
I bet if the weather were perfect and I had ET streets I could hit 12.9 with my current mods. That run corrected to a 13.35@105. That was with a 2.0 60 ft. If I snagged a 1.7 60 ft, it would run 12.9s.
![MAC[H]Z](https://cdn.stangnet.com/data/avatars/s/63/63366.jpg?1322928992){kind=avatar}
Here's what it took for me...
Engine:
Apten Performance Tune (SCT Flasher)
Steeda Pullies
K&N w/ no airbox and right headlight pulled at track
Denscharger MAF to TB only
MAC o/r x-pipe
Welded in Hooker MaxFlow mufflers
Drivetrain:
FRPP 4.10's
UPR shifter
King Cobra clutch
Axle tubes welded
Suspension:
Fox-body 4cyl springs up front w/ Lakewood 90/10 struts
Fox-body V8 springs (cut) w/ Monroe Sensi-tracs out back
Airbag in RR spring
No front swaybar
UPR sub-frame connectors
Steeda 4600 Lower Control Arms
Torque boxes welded
No quad shocks
No rear swaybar
Wheels/tires
Front - 165x15 Pep Boys on 15x4 Convo Pro's
Rear - 275x50x15 BFG DR's on 15x8.5 Convo Pro's
Launch @ 5500 and power-shift @ 6000 ......best 60' = 1.71
Jay
Engine:
Apten Performance Tune (SCT Flasher)
Steeda Pullies
K&N w/ no airbox and right headlight pulled at track
Denscharger MAF to TB only
MAC o/r x-pipe
Welded in Hooker MaxFlow mufflers
Drivetrain:
FRPP 4.10's
UPR shifter
King Cobra clutch
Axle tubes welded
Suspension:
Fox-body 4cyl springs up front w/ Lakewood 90/10 struts
Fox-body V8 springs (cut) w/ Monroe Sensi-tracs out back
Airbag in RR spring
No front swaybar
UPR sub-frame connectors
Steeda 4600 Lower Control Arms
Torque boxes welded
No quad shocks
No rear swaybar
Wheels/tires
Front - 165x15 Pep Boys on 15x4 Convo Pro's
Rear - 275x50x15 BFG DR's on 15x8.5 Convo Pro's
Launch @ 5500 and power-shift @ 6000 ......best 60' = 1.71
Jay
JonJon
Founding Member
I want so bad to buy a Mustang but posts like thes really aren't helping me. Seems like you have to radically change the character of the car to get any real performance out of it. For reference my old car 92 auto vette R.I.P. ran 13.5 with a muffler replacement, Gears and a converter away from a high 12. Seems like the option just aren't there for the modular motor other than forced induction or N2O.
As far as goals. The MA inspection consists of a pretty strict emmissions test. Catalytic converters are a must have.
Can you get aftermarket cams, are there stroker motors available? Forget about cost for a second i just want to know how i can get into the 12's N/A. And not in a Mach 1.
Someone on this board must have a 12 sec gt thats not supercharged.
As far as goals. The MA inspection consists of a pretty strict emmissions test. Catalytic converters are a must have.
Can you get aftermarket cams, are there stroker motors available? Forget about cost for a second i just want to know how i can get into the 12's N/A. And not in a Mach 1.
Someone on this board must have a 12 sec gt thats not supercharged.
Hell, Bill Putnam (Mustang92) just made an 11.97 run just recently, and he's only pushing in the 280's RWHP.
It's not just about power. More weight reduction, better suspension and traction, gearing, and driving ability (above all) can and will take place of simply more power.
First thing, I would build up the rear end so you can launch hard onto slicks and not worry about breaking an axle or differential. Do some upgrading on the suspension, a little weight reduction (take out spare tire, back seats, stupid stuff like that), unhook (or better yet, remove) the front swaybar, and 12's could be yours with just some proven bolt-on mods and practice.
12's aren't going to come instantly, but some dedicated work and solid driving skill should get you there.
It's not just about power. More weight reduction, better suspension and traction, gearing, and driving ability (above all) can and will take place of simply more power.
First thing, I would build up the rear end so you can launch hard onto slicks and not worry about breaking an axle or differential. Do some upgrading on the suspension, a little weight reduction (take out spare tire, back seats, stupid stuff like that), unhook (or better yet, remove) the front swaybar, and 12's could be yours with just some proven bolt-on mods and practice.
12's aren't going to come instantly, but some dedicated work and solid driving skill should get you there.
StngStr
Member
based on your whining, I'm guessing you want to know what HP mods are needed to get into the 12's. You're not taking into account the suspension mods and weight reduction that will cut .50 1.0 seconds off the time. A bone stock GT 5 speed should be able to run 13.9s. Take some weight out, pull the front sway bar, and put on some ET streets and it should run 13.5's. Add 4.10's, timing adjuster, and exhaust and it should run 12.9's. Put some fox springs on it, launch a little harder and run 12.8s.
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