only with slicks and hard launch's (in my experiences.But also... the cheaper ones will damage my torque box? Even in street use? Again this is a daily driver.
Ok now I'm stuck here.
Spend some cash and get the quality ones (MM/Ford Racing) or save some cash and get the LRS ones like SVT32VDOHC says...
This really will be mostly a street application. If I never plan on taking my car to the track, should I still go with MM? Or go with the $149 set and maybe afford some Eibach pro-kit springs too
But also... the cheaper ones will damage my torque box? Even in street use? Again this is a daily driver.
Alright bottom line:
I decided to not be cheap and just spend the extra money for peace of mind knowing the parts on my car are quality pieces. I'm getting the MM lowers and FRPP uppersI'll place the order tomorrow, though... or whenever I see how much more credit I have on my card, lol... a few recent expenses haven't gone through, and I'm more than halfway towards the limit lol... I should be ok, but I just want to make sure and calculate the exact amount. It's a resolution I made to take better care of my money. Spend on some good stuff but know how much I spent hahaha!
My POS car will be a badass Mustang eventually!
Is that TA setup mainly for hardcore roadracing or is it pactical for a mostly street driven car? I've been having my eye on UPR uppers and lowers...I've heard mixed reviews on UPR's quality so I really don't know what to think. My car is definately a budget build for now.
It can be used for both... I have a buddy with an 04 Mach with a full TA setup, & he has been daily driving his car that way for years with no issues. Of cousre there will be more NVH or road noise, but a TA setup will have better ride quality than a 4 link setup.
Look at it this way, Camaro's & Trans Am's come with a Torque arm/ Panhard bar setup from the factory & they do just fine on the street, strip, & road course. It is a far superior setup to the stock mustang 4 link....
Does anyone think Ford dealers still carry brand new bolts for UCAs? Or know where I can find some? Part #?
Good point. I'm seriously considering going with a TA setup after reading this thread. With a panhard bar would I have to get rid of my tailpipes? I DO NOT want to get rid of tailpipes on my car....I HATE DUMPS. Are the TA and Panhard bar meant to work together or is it an either/or type setup?
I'm just wondering if it makes more sense(function vs. cost) to stay with the 4-link setup or go with a TA/panhard setup. Oh, my other concern with the TA is ground clearance. I'm going to have Eibach Pro-springs(1.5" drop).
well depends on how low you go, i modded alot of my hangers and even my sub frame connectors to get everything to sit closer to the car, and IIRC the standard duty torque arm bolts to the car without subframes whereas the heavy duty one bolts to the subframes, but subframes ARE needed in both applicationsAs long as your catback is either stock, flowmaster, or dynomax, the tailpipes will be guaranteed to fit. Some other brands will fit, but just might need modification.
The TA/PHB are meant to, & have to be used in conjunction. They TOTALLY replace the upper control arms.
A TA/PHB setup is far more costly than a 4 link setup, but is FAR better in every way. Another thing that you MUST have with that setup is a good quality set of full length subframe connectors because that is what the torque arm crossmember bolts up to.
Ground clearance will not be any different than having the stock dogbone still installed on your differential(which the TA replaces) & the midpipe hangs below the rest of the TA so it shouldn't be an issue...
Good news:
I just made my order a while ago. I'm excited as hell and can't wait to see those parts on my doorstep! Here's what I ordered.
Item Number Quantity Unit Price
M5500A 1 119.99
79-98 UPPER CONTROL ARMS, HEAVY DUTY
MM-MMRLCA1 1 249.99
79-98 LOWER CONTROL ARM, REAR NON-ADJUSTABLE WITH SPRING PERCH & SWAY BAR MOUNT
Just one thing, if you plan on doing the installation yourself I would strongly recommend you getting the MM tool for removal and installation of the bushings in the UCA's.
Hi-Po said:Just one thing, if you plan on doing the installation yourself I would strongly recommend you getting the MM tool for removal and installation of the bushings in the UCA's.
Mustang5L5 said:I don't think i saw upper axle housing bushings on his list.
OP, if yout axle bushings are dry rotted, consider replacing those. I wouldn't go poly here. I'd stick with Ford
The bushing install on the LCA is easy. Don't worry about that at all. No tool needed.
On the UCA, take a look at it. One end has a bushing. The other end is open. The bushing end bolts to the body UCA mount. The open end bolts to the axle. On the axle, is a bushing. If yours are dry rotted or torn, you should replace them. Not needed, but a decent idea. Crawl under and take a peek at the condition.
Here's an example, your's will look different, but the bushing is pressed into ears on the axle
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