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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

What's the best way to fix up the suspension?

  • Thread starter Thread starter johnnyvista
  • Start date Start date Dec 18, 2004
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johnnyvista

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Jan 15, 2004
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Dec 18, 2004
#1
  • Dec 18, 2004
  • #1
what's the best way to tighten up my suspension on about $1000 budget? should i go for shocks/springs/cc plates/what else? or can i do a coil over on that budget? what other parts would i need other than the coil over kit?
 

squares98

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Aug 20, 2004
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Orange,ca
Dec 18, 2004
#2
  • Dec 18, 2004
  • #2
MM coilover grooved shocks$650 MM subframe connectors $129 Alum. steering rack bushings $30.
about 1k installed (excluding springs of choice)
Perfrect kit for later installation of coilvers.

Or you can get the mm starter kit for about 1k if you dont plan on doing coilovers later
 
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johnnyvista

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#3
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what's the point of the alum steering rack bushings?
 

tomustang

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#4
  • Dec 18, 2004
  • #4
maximum motorsport starter box is just a tad over 1 grand.
 

AirWolf87

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Dec 18, 2004
#5
  • Dec 18, 2004
  • #5
Go adjustible shocks (tokico makes great shocks, so does koni)
Progressive rate Springs
And by far one of the most important things you cad do to stiffen up the chasis is full length-subframe connectors. that will make your car handle on rails.
 
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johnnyvista

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#6
  • Dec 18, 2004
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right now, i've got springs and subframes. i want to beef up the suspension enough to handle the power i'm going to get out of a blower.

what's the advantage of a coil over set up over replacing the shocks or adding swaybars or a traction bar, etc?
 

GOLDENPONY

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Jan 23, 2002
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Dec 18, 2004
#7
  • Dec 18, 2004
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suspenson

I understand a panhard bar goes a long way toward improving handeling without killing ride.
 

hognutz

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Nov 12, 2002
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albany, oregon
Dec 18, 2004
#8
  • Dec 18, 2004
  • #8
Well suspentions are differnet animals for stait line vs curves.

in the curves you want no bind, free moving, positively locating suspention.

in a stait line you want less wieght, strong, good wieght transfer.

my .02

on your budget forget coilovers they are $$$$ that you don't have to spend. they are nice for ride hieght but unless you are auto x or something proably a bit of a waste. springs are cheaper for changing them out but most people are going to find a rate they like and stick to it.

get the MM drag rear control arms with spherical bearings. this will help locate the rear mor positively and reduce the need for a panhard rod alot. a panhards rods sole function is to locate the rear from side to side under load. these are kind of dual purpose purchase. use you subframes. get some nice shocks and struts. tockico, bilstein, koni

you already have springs make sure they are what you want to run. a good handling spring is going to be a trade off at the strip. a good spring at the strip is going to be a trade off handleling.

CC plates. these are a bit nice as if you get a spherical bering the strut is positively located so it does not mess with you camber under load. you camber setting has alot to do with you handling as that will inpact how much of the contact patch stay's on the surface.

I will say that the parnhard rod, torque are setups by griggs and mm are nice but it raises the budget sky high.

now all this being said if you want to go in strait line only. buy nice cheaper rear control arms with poly busshings. ajustable shocks and some soft springs.
 
J

Jakes

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May 8, 2004
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Dec 19, 2004
#9
  • Dec 19, 2004
  • #9
johnnyvista said:
what's the point of the alum steering rack bushings?
Click to expand...
I believe what is being talked about are the off-set bushings offered by a number of suppliers. They actually raise or lower the rack and pinion housing which helps to reestablish the correct geometery of the tie-rods.
 
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