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whats this part in the exhaust?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Doc Mitch
  • Start date Start date Nov 23, 2007
D

Doc Mitch

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Nov 23, 2007
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Nov 23, 2007
#1
  • Nov 23, 2007
  • #1
could anybody tell me what this part of the exhaust is? if i were to use this pipe how would i delete this part?

View attachment 346503
View attachment 346505
View attachment 346507
 
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Doc Mitch

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Nov 23, 2007
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Nov 23, 2007
#2
  • Nov 23, 2007
  • #2
oh, its on a 89 mustang 5.0 lx vert.
 

wythors

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Nov 23, 2007
#3
  • Nov 23, 2007
  • #3
Air injection tube from the check valve by the right side header to the h-pipe.
 
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Doc Mitch

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Nov 23, 2007
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  • Nov 23, 2007
  • #4
ok, i thought it was emissions equipment. how would i go about blocking this off to put on the new pipe? do they make some type of block off plate?
 
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facemelter71

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cincy
Nov 23, 2007
#5
  • Nov 23, 2007
  • #5
The air injection tube is nothing special,just leave it there for now.Whizz wheel the end by the crossover pipe on the -H- and just use some heater hose and clamps to re-connect it to the new pipe.The pipes there dont get hot enough to burn the hose.Thats what i had on my car for a long time.Then i just got rid of the air pump all together and used some rubber b-off's to plug the end up at the x-pipe.
 
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Doc Mitch

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Nov 23, 2007
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#6
  • Nov 23, 2007
  • #6
so basically just stuff something up in there to plug it? sounds simple enough.
 

SVT32VDOHC

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Nov 23, 2007
#7
  • Nov 23, 2007
  • #7
You can removed the hole thing. Heat up the end of it at the stock h-pipe, then pull it out....then un bolt it at the header. Do it this way because those pipes are pricey new if you go back to stock.

If you want to ruin it....just cut it off with a grinding disc, and pinch it closed.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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Nov 23, 2007
#8
  • Nov 23, 2007
  • #8
I see cats in your pictures.....


In that case...leave it alone. It sort of technically is emmissions equipment anyway. What's your reason for wanting to delete it?
 

jrichker

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Nov 24, 2007
#9
  • Nov 24, 2007
  • #9
If you have catalytic converters, the tube needs to be in place and have a working smog pump. If you don't, the cats will fail and clog.



Some review of how it works...

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAB & TAD solenoids prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the control valves or pump in case of a backfire. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the dump valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. The dump valve reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT.






Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.
 
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