You need brackets if you lower the car to any degree, regardless of the control arms. Look under the rear of the car and your control arms will be pointing upwards instead of slightly down. BMR do them although if you're not going back to stock ever, it's worth welding them on due to the high stresses placed on them. Plenty of places do them advertised thus:
# Allows rear control arms to be adjusted lower for increased traction at the drag strip.
# Improves street and race car performance coming out of turns.
# Brackets weld on with ease. ( We do not recommend bolting this type of bracket on
due to the high loads placed on them).
# A must for lowered cars. (Brings back your instantaneous center that was lost
when you lowered it).
Each one of these cars must be different. I had severe hop when new/stock suspension was in the car. I was told to add LCAs. They reduced it a little but it was still there. So I added relocation brackets-down one hole from stock location--and an UCA. Adj upper, non adj lower. Better but instead of hopping-it has more like a chatter. This usually happens on damp roads when I give it gas at a slow roll. It will chatter like a newly arrested hooker. If I dump it at 5K rpm there is no hop/chatter/stuttering. No matter--that's all I plan on spending on my rear. next time I get it on jack stands I'm gonna go for the lowest hole. Understand it IS way better, but I've done less to other cars and hop was gone. Maybe longtubes will help the wheels spin thru the hop stage-lol. LTs and D/S are coming up next.
I got rid of wheel hop by totally overwhelming the tires... Install one KB turning 11 pounds of boost, AR LTs and little Nitto 255/35/20s and you're guaranteed to spin them through 1, 2, and 3rd gear. No wheel hop.
Nonetheless, I have BMR LCA (poly front w/bushingless rear) with adjustable BMR poly UCA and brace.