wheel hop!!!!!

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Defiance GT

New Member

Aug 31, 2009

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Dec 30, 2009

#1

• Dec 30, 2009

• #1

I have a 08 with a 3.73 gear and I get a lot of wheel hop. My buddy told me I needed new stronger rear bushings is that right or what do I need to eliminate the hop. My whole dashboard looks like its going to break in half Posted via Mobile Device

 

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BackinaStang

New Member

Oct 12, 2009

23

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East Coast

Dec 30, 2009

#2

• Dec 30, 2009

• #2

Lower Control Arms should fix you right up! May as well do subframe connectors while your at it, sounds like your beating it up pretty bad.

 

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echoinsilence

New Member

Jul 22, 2009

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denham springs, LA

Dec 31, 2009

#3

• Dec 31, 2009

• #3

yep yep. lower control arms will def help, and if you wanna go all out you can add relocation brackets, an upper control arm, and a panhard bar. you shouldnt have much wheel hop at all after that

 

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Defiance GT

New Member

Aug 31, 2009

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Dec 31, 2009

#4

• Dec 31, 2009

• #4

Thanks a lot guys I do beat it pretty good I do Autocross and drag racing. Are there any really good brands of choice? Alyson will be putting on the eibach sportline springs. So should I do the arms and bars first or will lowering it not affect anything.

echoinsilence said:

yep yep. lower control arms will def help, and if you wanna go all out you can add relocation brackets, an upper control arm, and a panhard bar. you shouldnt have much wheel hop at all after that

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Posted via Mobile Device

 

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GT-John

New Member

Dec 27, 2009

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Bridgewater, NJ

Dec 31, 2009

#5

• Dec 31, 2009

• #5

Defiance GT said:

Thanks a lot guys I do beat it pretty good I do Autocross and drag racing. Are there any really good brands of choice? Alyson will be putting on the eibach sportline springs. So should I do the arms and bars first or will lowering it not affect anything.




Posted via Mobile Device

Click to expand...

all i can say is that when i purchase the lower control arms im going with steeda chromoly upper/lower and maybe CHE or BMR relocation brackets. If your lowering i would do the LCA/UCA and pinion/alignment corrections all together.

 

SpartaPerformance

10 Year Member

Nov 5, 2006

2,517

61

89

Long Island NY

Jan 1, 2010

#6

• Jan 1, 2010

• #6

Yup LCA's will do. Just make sure you get good ones. I've been through a few and most sucked so I decided to produce my own.

 

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echoinsilence

New Member

Jul 22, 2009

87

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denham springs, LA

Jan 1, 2010

#7

• Jan 1, 2010

• #7

If youre lowering be sure to also get an adjustable panhard bar, so you can re center your rear end. also relocation brackets for the LCA's that way you dont get MORE wheel hop. as far as brands, I just bought UMI cuz I've heard really good things about them and for the money theyre a great deal. LCA's and relo brackets for 200. but BMR, Steeda, Metco, UPR, theyre all great brands.

 

NastyStang113

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Sep 12, 2008

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Florida

Jan 2, 2010

#8

• Jan 2, 2010

• #8

If you're road racing or racing SCCA stuff than do not do the relocation brackets. The relocation brackets are for straight line traction and will decrease handling performance. So invest in a good set of LCAs like the BMR Billet LCAs and an adjustable UCA like Steeda's since it comes with the stepped washer. If you're running the stock shocks than when you buy new springs I'd just buy new shocks. It will probably cure the wheel hop and than you can upgrade the LCAs and UCA later.

 

SpartaPerformance

10 Year Member

Nov 5, 2006

2,517

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89

Long Island NY

Jan 2, 2010

#9

• Jan 2, 2010

• #9

If you're looking to go straight the CHE relo brackets are the way to go.

 

Ken04

New Member

May 24, 2007

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Vancouver Washington

Jan 4, 2010

#10

• Jan 4, 2010

• #10

Defiance GT said:

Thanks a lot guys I do beat it pretty good I do Autocross and drag racing. Are there any really good brands of choice? Alyson will be putting on the eibach sportline springs. So should I do the arms and bars first or will lowering it not affect anything.




Posted via Mobile Device

Click to expand...

probably won't have any wheel hop after you lower it. It changes the angle of the LCAs enough to get rid of most of it. It will make your autox handling suffer however. If you plan to drag and road course you'll need to think about some LCAs and an adj UCA. I wouldn't buy frame connectors for the S197.

 

VF143Falcon

New Member

Jan 23, 2009

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Jan 8, 2010

#11

• Jan 8, 2010

• #11

I did the J&M Race LCA and UCA setup with all heim joints, J&M Adj Panhard bar and the steeda swaybar on the back. The ride is def. harsher but the burnouts are not just hop free but super controllable. Its made the rear end way more predictable on the road courses

 

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Rob72

New Member

Jan 2, 2010

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0

Jan 8, 2010

#12

• Jan 8, 2010

• #12

You want your rear lower control arms to be parallel with the ground for the least amount of hop.

 

VF143Falcon

New Member

Jan 23, 2009

30

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0

Jan 12, 2010

#13

• Jan 12, 2010

• #13

Rob72 said:

You want your rear lower control arms to be parallel with the ground for the least amount of hop.

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No... Just no. The control arms being parallel to the ground is going to affect traction. Not wheel hop. The links bouncing and flexing in those big soft rubber bushings seems to be the cause of it. No rubber on my rear axle and NO wheel hop. 2nd gear burnouts are smooooooooth.

 

Grabber07GT

New Member

Nov 17, 2006

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0

Jan 18, 2010

#14

• Jan 18, 2010

• #14

I did the BMR upper and lower arms. Eliminated 90% of the wheel hop. Also installed 4.10's at the same time. I was REALLY surprised at how well they handled the steeper gear. I did buy slightly wider tires too, but only 255, so I'm fairly certain that it's all due to the upper/lower arms. Doe the U/L CA's and you won't look back.

 

89hatchlx

New Member

Oct 9, 2008

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Dirty South Jerzzzz

Jan 18, 2010

#15

• Jan 18, 2010

• #15

I did the J&M lowers purchased the upper but didnt waist my time installing. Just looked cheesey. The lowers did nothing but increase the wheel hop and the car dont hook for crap now they will be coming off and cut up may use them for a breaker bar, or throw them in the trash. I wouldn't even resell them to someone, to purchase a higher quallity LCA.

 

08GTCSTurbo

New Member

Jan 17, 2010

24

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4

Rockford Illinois

Jan 18, 2010

#16

• Jan 18, 2010

• #16

i have steeda upper and lower..the upper will probably eliminate most of it because the upper bolt on the 3ed link is about an 3/16 smaller than the holes drilled in the mount..the steeda upper gives you bushings to eliminate the gap

 

Wraith413

Member

Jul 1, 2009

418

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16

Galveston

Jan 19, 2010

#17

• Jan 19, 2010

• #17

I thought J&M had pretty good LCA's, from what I've heard?

 

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echoinsilence

New Member

Jul 22, 2009

87

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0

denham springs, LA

Jan 19, 2010

#18

• Jan 19, 2010

• #18

I just added UMI LCA's and relo brackets and it made a HUGE difference. much much much better, no wheel hop at all.

 

VF143Falcon

New Member

Jan 23, 2009

30

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0

Jan 20, 2010

#19

• Jan 20, 2010

• #19

The J&M Race LCA's are amazing... They don't look cheesy... Its all business.

 

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fallenauthority

New Member

Jun 28, 2009

72

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0

Hughesville, MD

Jan 20, 2010

#20

• Jan 20, 2010

• #20

89hatchlx said:

I did the J&M lowers purchased the upper but didnt waist my time installing. Just looked cheesey. The lowers did nothing but increase the wheel hop and the car dont hook for crap now they will be coming off and cut up may use them for a breaker bar, or throw them in the trash. I wouldn't even resell them to someone, to purchase a higher quallity LCA.

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I will buy them. Its probably cause you didnt do the UCA's and only put the LCAs on.