Wheel Question
- Thread starter mattmm04
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08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi,
The perimeter flange screws are added to avoid the rim spinning within the tires under high HP/TQ launch scenarios. As they are mounted on the outer perimeter rim flange, their location has nothing to do with the Tire’s bead located lower & internally which maintains the tires actual seal.
Simply stated- No, it has nothing to do with the sealing ability of new tires. Many rims mfg’s cast these in for non-functional aesthetics. Just to be extra cautious, pls post a picture of the existing tire/rim assembly?
Best!
- John
The perimeter flange screws are added to avoid the rim spinning within the tires under high HP/TQ launch scenarios. As they are mounted on the outer perimeter rim flange, their location has nothing to do with the Tire’s bead located lower & internally which maintains the tires actual seal.
Simply stated- No, it has nothing to do with the sealing ability of new tires. Many rims mfg’s cast these in for non-functional aesthetics. Just to be extra cautious, pls post a picture of the existing tire/rim assembly?
Best!
- John
Thanks! I read up about these screws and other bead locking items. So I understand now why they’re on there due to the slicks that we’re being run in the car at one point
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Well I thought that had them in the picture. Anyways. They’re right on the outermost of the wheel right before the lip. I kind of hate them cause these are the original wheels with the 01 cobra and the screw heads make them look tacky
08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi,
Yeah, close to seeing them in the 1st pic, not quite. Close only works when playing Horseshoes or throwing hand grenades, lol. Yes, hex head screws stick out like a sore thumb, unfortunately.
As typical tubeless tires rely on air pressure to thrust the tire firmly against the seal surface (bead) of the rim, sidewall’s absorbs some of the shock. Running bead-locks creates an equal mechanical clamp force across retaining the bead when purposely dropping air pressure(s) very low.
Without bead-locks, the tire would not only go completely flat, it’d likely fall off the rim & destroy both.
WHY BEADLOCKS?
Extreme Rock-climbing, Enduro, high HP Drags with Street or Race slicks are a few examples of conditions of which bead locks are really useful, otherwise..mainly aesthetics.
Pictured below is what headlocks generally consist of, some run tubes inside the tires so they can drill & tap the rims & punch a hole in the tire, run the screws in & have no concerns about leaks..
ELIMINATE THE UNSIGHTLY APPEARANCE
You can rid the rims of the holes using a few methods....
1) Easiest, while looking good..Tires removed from the Rims (or mounted using a positive stop on the drill bit & a bottom tap) Drill & Tap the holes in the rim, run stainless button head Allen drive screws of appropriate length, or flathead screws; countersunk (only need a few threads)-apply threadlocker, blue (removable) or red (permanent) loctite.
2) If they’re Aluminum Rims, not Magnesium, (unless you want it to catch fire) and you’re handy with a TIG (or MIG), discern the base metal & select your filler & plug weld the holes & grind level, finish with an orbital sander, prep, prime, wetsand & spray the rims with the appropriate color right to the Rim’s line where it has a definitive edge, wont be visible. You can also Silversolder or Braze the holes, if you’re very handy with welding, it’s an option. If not, don’t want an excessively large HAZ, go with #1 or #3.
3) Using a standard sized Dowel Pin cut to the rims thickness, smooth out the end(s) or cut on a Lathe or Mill, carefully drill the Rims holes open to a light clearance (-.0.002-0.004). Install carefully with Cylindrical locking compound (by Loctite), prep & spray per outlined on #3.
By far, #1 is the easiest & is aesthetically pleasing, using Stainless button heads cut to length & threaded in. Button heads would look good, painted or not. Stainless screws made of 303,304, best being 316 which will not rust & aren’t magnetic.
Good luck! Any questions or concerns, feel free.
-John
Yeah, close to seeing them in the 1st pic, not quite. Close only works when playing Horseshoes or throwing hand grenades, lol. Yes, hex head screws stick out like a sore thumb, unfortunately.
As typical tubeless tires rely on air pressure to thrust the tire firmly against the seal surface (bead) of the rim, sidewall’s absorbs some of the shock. Running bead-locks creates an equal mechanical clamp force across retaining the bead when purposely dropping air pressure(s) very low.
Without bead-locks, the tire would not only go completely flat, it’d likely fall off the rim & destroy both.
WHY BEADLOCKS?
Extreme Rock-climbing, Enduro, high HP Drags with Street or Race slicks are a few examples of conditions of which bead locks are really useful, otherwise..mainly aesthetics.
Pictured below is what headlocks generally consist of, some run tubes inside the tires so they can drill & tap the rims & punch a hole in the tire, run the screws in & have no concerns about leaks..
ELIMINATE THE UNSIGHTLY APPEARANCE
You can rid the rims of the holes using a few methods....
1) Easiest, while looking good..Tires removed from the Rims (or mounted using a positive stop on the drill bit & a bottom tap) Drill & Tap the holes in the rim, run stainless button head Allen drive screws of appropriate length, or flathead screws; countersunk (only need a few threads)-apply threadlocker, blue (removable) or red (permanent) loctite.
2) If they’re Aluminum Rims, not Magnesium, (unless you want it to catch fire) and you’re handy with a TIG (or MIG), discern the base metal & select your filler & plug weld the holes & grind level, finish with an orbital sander, prep, prime, wetsand & spray the rims with the appropriate color right to the Rim’s line where it has a definitive edge, wont be visible. You can also Silversolder or Braze the holes, if you’re very handy with welding, it’s an option. If not, don’t want an excessively large HAZ, go with #1 or #3.
3) Using a standard sized Dowel Pin cut to the rims thickness, smooth out the end(s) or cut on a Lathe or Mill, carefully drill the Rims holes open to a light clearance (-.0.002-0.004). Install carefully with Cylindrical locking compound (by Loctite), prep & spray per outlined on #3.
By far, #1 is the easiest & is aesthetically pleasing, using Stainless button heads cut to length & threaded in. Button heads would look good, painted or not. Stainless screws made of 303,304, best being 316 which will not rust & aren’t magnetic.
Good luck! Any questions or concerns, feel free.
-John
