When braking, the car shaking...

MatteMan · Apr 28, 2006

Chili said:
Never heard of those.. I have the 3 bolt UPR plates, which run $160 - $180. Ther 4 bolt maximum motorsports from that link I posted are supposed to be good as well, but cost even more.

Ok, maybe I bought this MM c/c plates when I have saved some money, how much do this plates weight? I think it would be quite expensive shipping cost to Sweden also...

Torinalth · Apr 28, 2006

plates are somewhere around 4-8 pounds... cant remember if mine were 4 for the set of 4 a piece.... also, the ones listed are the steeda 4 bolts... i suppose they will work however i have seen many places that the MM ones are the only real choice when using a coilover setup because of design, strength, and materials used. i know the steeda is a direct copy in initial design, but i do not know of the workmanship. i decided not to take the chance and go with the MM ones.

i have had that vibration many many times and fixed them with most of the solutions given here. the rotors being out would be my main thing.... this coveres a MASSIVE area though... most of those given here are only the most comon issue... mine was not. the rotor not being completely flat is just one issue. the second and well, others are as follows:

hte calipers may be the culprit. this can happen in a few ways.... 1 is that the pistons in the caliper are not engaguing correctly. this will put pressure on one part of the pad more then the other. this will cause the pad to wear at an angle (check this) and when it engagues strait on initial clamp then moves to fit the pad flat to the rotor (with more pressure) it will wobble back and forth as it changes up between flat and angles contact between the pad and the rotor. this issue will NOT effect the rotors wear pattern.

next go ahead and remove the calipers all together, remove the pad retainers and all. then put it back together and retorque (make sure all the bolts used are the correct type, a haynes manual is great for this). i had a broken bolt holding the caliper on and this is also can cause the same situation as aboveas hte caliper is forcing its backing away from the hub. also if can be caused if the bolts are not torqued down correctly.

another issue that it can be (but to a point) is the fact you have slotted rotors. from my friends usage of his prelude he noticed as the rotors wear down you will start to get a light vibration from the groves in the rotor. this will be noticable and felt through the wheel, but not extreme by any means at all. if its noticed easily by any passenger riding in it for the first time then i would rule this one out. also, since you have drilled slotted rotors it is recommended that you NEVER machine them. i dont know why really, but i know every company i have seen so far states this for their gear. others may have different personal experience.

another semi possible issue... depending on year, usage, and luck; is your wheel bearing may be going out. this is kinda a longshot as it typically will not cause vibration akin to what you are describing. you can test this by jacking up the car, and with the wheel off the gound pressing hard against the top of the wheel while pulling out on the bottom of the wheel, then do the reverse of pulling on the top and pushing on the bottom. if you get play in the wheel then you might want to look at fixing this issue. i have heard others say that it can be caused if the wheel is hot when you finish a normal drive (friction of the beraing heating the hub which heats the rotor and wheel beyond normal). this is best tested with a laser thermometer on each side to see if one side is hotter then the other by a good margin. however this is kinda useless if BOTH sides are having problems... mine are.

thats about all i can think of off hand. hope i have given some ideas to check into.

Torinalth

DTNODYA · Apr 28, 2006

Wouldn't having only four lugs be a factor in this???

... or tie rods, sway bar bushings, end link bushings, ball joints, and what not?

Torinalth · Apr 28, 2006

tie rod ends... i doubt it. a no on the sway bar bushings.... ball joints could theorhetically.... i cant really say for certain... though if they are really shot... i could see it as possible.... and in all fairness LCA bushings could do it as well i suppose, thouse at the bottom of the list.

as far as the lugs, as long as its tight no. i've gone with 4 lugs for around 40k and had no issues. just got 5 on each and its the same. so if its tight i think it'd be fine, no ideal, but fine.

Torinalth

MatteMan · Apr 30, 2006

Torinalth said:
plates are somewhere around 4-8 pounds... cant remember if mine were 4 for the set of 4 a piece.... also, the ones listed are the steeda 4 bolts... i suppose they will work however i have seen many places that the MM ones are the only real choice when using a coilover setup because of design, strength, and materials used. i know the steeda is a direct copy in initial design, but i do not know of the workmanship. i decided not to take the chance and go with the MM ones.

i have had that vibration many many times and fixed them with most of the solutions given here. the rotors being out would be my main thing.... this coveres a MASSIVE area though... most of those given here are only the most comon issue... mine was not. the rotor not being completely flat is just one issue. the second and well, others are as follows:

hte calipers may be the culprit. this can happen in a few ways.... 1 is that the pistons in the caliper are not engaguing correctly. this will put pressure on one part of the pad more then the other. this will cause the pad to wear at an angle (check this) and when it engagues strait on initial clamp then moves to fit the pad flat to the rotor (with more pressure) it will wobble back and forth as it changes up between flat and angles contact between the pad and the rotor. this issue will NOT effect the rotors wear pattern.

next go ahead and remove the calipers all together, remove the pad retainers and all. then put it back together and retorque (make sure all the bolts used are the correct type, a haynes manual is great for this). i had a broken bolt holding the caliper on and this is also can cause the same situation as aboveas hte caliper is forcing its backing away from the hub. also if can be caused if the bolts are not torqued down correctly.

another issue that it can be (but to a point) is the fact you have slotted rotors. from my friends usage of his prelude he noticed as the rotors wear down you will start to get a light vibration from the groves in the rotor. this will be noticable and felt through the wheel, but not extreme by any means at all. if its noticed easily by any passenger riding in it for the first time then i would rule this one out. also, since you have drilled slotted rotors it is recommended that you NEVER machine them. i dont know why really, but i know every company i have seen so far states this for their gear. others may have different personal experience.

another semi possible issue... depending on year, usage, and luck; is your wheel bearing may be going out. this is kinda a longshot as it typically will not cause vibration akin to what you are describing. you can test this by jacking up the car, and with the wheel off the gound pressing hard against the top of the wheel while pulling out on the bottom of the wheel, then do the reverse of pulling on the top and pushing on the bottom. if you get play in the wheel then you might want to look at fixing this issue. i have heard others say that it can be caused if the wheel is hot when you finish a normal drive (friction of the beraing heating the hub which heats the rotor and wheel beyond normal). this is best tested with a laser thermometer on each side to see if one side is hotter then the other by a good margin. however this is kinda useless if BOTH sides are having problems... mine are.

thats about all i can think of off hand. hope i have given some ideas to check into.

Torinalth

Wow thanks for all the information... I´m gonna check some of it up.
Return if I fix something!

TruBluGT · Apr 30, 2006

I have the same problem with my '97 Cougar. I've had the brakes (Rotors & Calipers on all wheels) replaced in the Past & it didn't solve the problem. I've had the Alignment and balancing done , the tie rods & Wheel bearings replaced & I still have the vibration. Now I've had the car like this for quite some time & every shop I've taken it to says it one thing or another & No one has figured it out. Not even the Dealer. Too me it can only be the suspension, but every mechanic said the suspension is fine. SO I'm stumped.

MatteMan · Apr 30, 2006

TruBluGT said:
I have the same problem with my '97 Cougar. I've had the brakes (Rotors & Calipers on all wheels) replaced in the Past & it didn't solve the problem. I've had the Alignment and balancing done , the tie rods & Wheel bearings replaced & I still have the vibration. Now I've had the car like this for quite some time & every shop I've taken it to says it one thing or another & No one has figured it out. Not even the Dealer. Too me it can only be the suspension, but every mechanic said the suspension is fine. SO I'm stumped.

ohh.. stranges

StangPro · Apr 30, 2006

Even new rotors can be warped, and if the pads aren't bedded properly, new pads can instantly trash even new rotors.

It's brake related. Have the from rotors checked/replaced and it should be fine. It's not the struts or alignment or any of that if it's fine when you're just rolling.

When braking, the car shaking...

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