When to change oil in a new engine

I built this stroker engine with all new parts. Today I finially got it to idle. It's the 3rd time a ran it and brought it up to temperature. I need to call the insurance agent and get it put back on the policy because I'm ready to road test it.

I put a standard M68 Melting oil pump in.
The oil pressure gauge is reading between the L and high. Sometimes it goes into high.

Should I be concerned with the pressure reading?

Should I change the oil and filter now before I road test it?

I'm correct in saying the oil is pulled from the sump to the pump and through the filter and then to the bearings? At what point is the pressure being measured?
 
I just built my 347 stroker and am getting to the same point you are. I was told by my machine shop that you should get the engine running, allowing to reach operating temperature. Then begin the break in. I recommend changing the oil immediately after the break in period, probably after 20 miles or so. Then, with the new oil in, start it up, let it reach operating temp, and then drain the oil again. Repeat this last step one time, and then change the oil within the next 200 miles. Afterwards, you could maybe change the oil once more after the next 1000 miles, and then at your regular intervals.

So, yes, chnage it before the road test.

The after.

I think youre right about the oil path.

Good luck!!!
 
Thanks, I will change my oil in the morning.

It was tough to get it tuned in when it wouldn't idle. I wanted to do it as fast as possible because this is the breaking in time for the rings.

The exhaust sounds just like it did when I had a 302. Thought there might have been a change in the tone. Hopefully there will be a noticeable change in the power.
 
I was curious about the sound myself. I have longtubes and an offroad catless H pipe, and wonder how it will sound. Let me know how it goes for you, my engine will hopefully go in soon. It seems like every time I get ready for it, I decide to do something else to the car. (K member kit, engine bay cleanup and wire hiding...) :rolleyes:
 
Don't get freaked out if you have a magnetic oil plug and there's shavings, that a given on break-in. Usually, I'd run it at about 2 grand on first start up, have buddies there to tweak timing,idle,fuel pressure, and other obvious stuff and keeping looking for leaks and "bad things". keep it that way (at 2 grand)and let the coolant burp if it has to. It's going to get hot (within reason). run it for a half hour-hour and make sure it idles. If it's doing okay, you can drive it down the road for gas or a quick cruise, but immediately change the oil before the next period of running. Change it after the first tank of gas, and the second, then go to every other for four tanks. change it at 50, 100, 500, then 1,000 miles before switching to synthetic and/or your normal oil change routine.
 
Dino oil with changes at 50/200-300/1500 miles..followed by regualar 3000 mile changes with synthetic. I have just finished my second oil change and HOPE to get enough miles on her this year for the switch to synthetic. Both above links are well written, but break-in is all a matter of personal choice..I baby mine with long warm-ups, LOTS of low RPM gear changes, and the occasional 5500-6000 romp...about one every time out (not a daily driver..more like once a week). Pretty much the break-in mirrors my driving style.
 
there are alot of theories on break-in, mostly has to do with the ring material used. bmw on there motorsport cars has 1 oil change at 1200 then call it good, but if i just spent a bunch of jack on my motor i would say that changing your oil is nver a bad thing.
 
I always swap in fresh oil and filter after that run cycle....just a habit I guess...for the price of filters against what you just invested I'd be swapping in a fresh filter at all those breakin oil changes....

347 STROKER...Must be nice... Hope she run's the balls.... :nice:
 
The stock oil pressure sending unit is nothing but a dummy switch.

Anything under 7psi will kick it to LOW, by that time, your way too late.

Get yourself a nice AUTOMETER unit to take accurate meterings.

Damn thing saved my butt from toasting my bottom end once in my Cobra... swapped out new bearings and called it a day.
 
On a fresh motor I usually heat cycle it a couple of times in the shop to let things settle and check bolts & fluid levels.

I then drive a couple of times like your grandmother does around the neighborhood for something like 5 to 10 miles on each drive with the focus on getting temps up to a normal level for a short time.

I then change the oil & filter.

I then put it on the highway but don't keep the same rpms for long time periods and slowly start to drive more aggressive with the focus being on making the rings take a seat to the cyl walls.

I'll change the oil & filter again at about 250 miles.

Later
Grady