where is the balencer located?? please help

Casino

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Nov 11, 2007
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i have been reading alot of the forums on balencers and i have that same crazy vibration. where is the balencer located and how do you change it?? please help! i have a 94 mustang 5.0
 
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open up the hood and look down at your belt. You see the bottom most pulley?

take that pulley off (4 bolts)

then get a harmonic balancer removal tool (like 10 bux at harbor freight)

remove the balancer. Make sure you back the bolt out of it first. It is a 15/16" bolt with a washer on it. if you can't break it loose, put the car in gear and put the e-brake up. use the instructions on the removal tool to remove the balancer (rather easy)

get some rtv and put it on the keyway (metal tab sticking out from crank..can't miss it)

get the new balancer and slide it on (this can be a PITA...try taking a propane torch and heating inside the balancer a bit so it expands and goes on the crank easier.

get it on far enough to where you can get the bolt and washer to go back in about 5 threads or so. From there you can draw it on SLOWLY by tightening the bolt. Torque it down to 108 ft/lb (I could be wrong on this spec). If you feel it binding up..DON'T FORCE IT ON!!!!

It really isn't that hard.

before you do this though...I'd check basic things. A bad plug wire can cause a bad vibration. do a simple tune up first (cap and rotor, plug wires, etc.) Also, I'd go ahead and pull codes and do a cylinder balance test (the instruction book will tell you how to do this)
 
open up the hood and look down at your belt. You see the bottom most pulley?

take that pulley off (4 bolts)

then get a harmonic balancer removal tool (like 10 bux at harbor freight)

remove the balancer. Make sure you back the bolt out of it first. It is a 15/16" bolt with a washer on it. if you can't break it loose, put the car in gear and put the e-brake up. use the instructions on the removal tool to remove the balancer (rather easy)

get some rtv and put it on the keyway (metal tab sticking out from crank..can't miss it)

get the new balancer and slide it on (this can be a PITA...try taking a propane torch and heating inside the balancer a bit so it expands and goes on the crank easier.

get it on far enough to where you can get the bolt and washer to go back in about 5 threads or so. From there you can draw it on SLOWLY by tightening the bolt. Torque it down to 108 ft/lb (I could be wrong on this spec). If you feel it binding up..DON'T FORCE IT ON!!!!

It really isn't that hard.

before you do this though...I'd check basic things. A bad plug wire can cause a bad vibration. do a simple tune up first (cap and rotor, plug wires, etc.) Also, I'd go ahead and pull codes and do a cylinder balance test (the instruction book will tell you how to do this)

i did a full tune up on my car and the vibration was still there. i also pulled codes and nothing comes up. A cylinder balence test i haven't done. but from what i read on all the forums i really think it is my balencer. thank you to the people that wrote back things worth reading and helpful
 
Yeah, the stock balancer has a bit of a problem.

The elastomer on it tends to go bad and start causing bad vibes

a quick (though not definitive) check is to have the engine at an idle. Look at the balancer...if you've got a wobbler...then that's def. your problem.
 
that comment wasn't neccesary.

Sorry, no offense intended. Just a suggestion, one that doesn't know what a balancer is or where it's located isn't the best candidate to change one. I know that we can give you good advice and instructions on how to change it, but it's not exactly the same as changing your oil. It can sometimes take quite a bit of torque to get the balancer bolt off and needs to be torqued back correctly or you balancer could fly off while the engine is running and screw up the internals of your engine among other things.
 
Sorry, no offense intended. Just a suggestion, one that doesn't know what a balancer is or where it's located isn't the best candidate to change one. I know that we can give you good advice and instructions on how to change it, but it's not exactly the same as changing your oil. It can sometimes take quite a bit of torque to get the balancer bolt off and needs to be torqued back correctly or you balancer could fly off while the engine is running and screw up the internals of your engine among other things.

well for the record how much do you think a shop would run me for to change it??
 
If you have a large wrench you should be able to loosen it. Use short quick pulls to get it going. You will also need a torque wrench that goes to at least 125ft/lbs.
A new balencer should be easy to find so shop around. it is a 50oz for stock.
I am guessint it is the rubber ring holding the balancer together that is your problem, so be carfull with the new one. DO NOT drop it:nono: . It has a notch on the crank so you do not put it one wrong.
A air wrench is the easiest way to get the nut off but you will prbably need to drain and remove the radiator to have enough room.:rolleyes:
So just remover the crank pully, look up torque specs, get tools, and it should pnly be an hour job, mostly because of the nut.
goodluck
 
I have to say, I think caseywan's initial caution was warranted, although it was a bit discouraging as the first comment. Even though this seems like a fairly easy job even for a newb, cross threading the crankshaft would be a biotch - and a hell of an expensive mistake.

That said, I still think a total newb (not saying you are Casino :D ) could tackle this - as long as he had some good instructions. My suggestion for Casino is, if you're still gonna do this yourself, get a Hayes manual. It will walk you through the procedure (as well as many others).

As far as the price a shop might charge you, well you'll have to buy the part either way so your really only talking labor (except the shop might charge you and extra $50 over what you could buy the part from 50resto.com for), and if a shop charged you more than 1 hour for this, it would be a crime.

Good luck.