Where to buy 393w kit?
- Thread starter StaffAmerica74
- Start date
jasonn
Founding Member
I have heard good things about coast high. I bought mine through this website. Very good.
adperformance.com
adperformance.com
iskwezm
10 Year Member
67GTCOUPE
Founding Member
I just went through this.....I have all my brand new 393 components in my bedroom!
I pieced together the best parts I could find...from various sources.
What I found is: when you buy a kit: they throw in the crapola I beam rods....I went with the Pro I beam rods....I would also suggest H beams.
I got Speedomotive to price match my pistons, and I bought my crank and rods off their ebay auctions...for a savings of about $400.00! Look up "speedomotive" as the seller on ebay......you will see their auctions. I am not saying they are perfect, or the best, simply that they came up with the best package price on the parts I needed....and they balanced it for $150.00.
PS: Forged crank is a waste of money in a stock block.....you will blow the block to bits before the crank!
I pieced together the best parts I could find...from various sources.
What I found is: when you buy a kit: they throw in the crapola I beam rods....I went with the Pro I beam rods....I would also suggest H beams.
I got Speedomotive to price match my pistons, and I bought my crank and rods off their ebay auctions...for a savings of about $400.00! Look up "speedomotive" as the seller on ebay......you will see their auctions. I am not saying they are perfect, or the best, simply that they came up with the best package price on the parts I needed....and they balanced it for $150.00.
PS: Forged crank is a waste of money in a stock block.....you will blow the block to bits before the crank!
unless you are going to spray, or run a blower, you can use much less expensive parts, like cast cranks for about $400 less than a forged crank, stock rods properly prepped(polished beams and shot peened), and forged replacement 302 pistons.
67GTCOUPE
Founding Member
I would NOT use stock rods........just lost a 351w roller motor due to perhaps the stock rods with ARP bolts!
Go H beam or Pro I beam....the extra $100-$150 is well worth it!
Go H beam or Pro I beam....the extra $100-$150 is well worth it!
67GTCOUPE said:
how much power and rpm were you running at the time? i would be willing to bet that you likely spun a rod bearing, and that is what caused the rod to break, or one fo the rod bolts broke(yes even arp bolts break now and then). the stock rods are rather robust and can handle alot of torture.
dennis112
15 Year Member
jasonn said:
I second checking out adperformance.com . Brian has great prices on his kits. Hard to beat.
Dark Knight
Founding Member
67GTCOUPE
Founding Member
rbohm said:
Little over 400 FWHP.
No the rod did not break. Bearing spun.
Problem is: And this is from guys who build LOTS of race engines: they see the big ends of the i beam rods DISTORT, ovalize. This goes for Scat and Eagle as well.....that is what I think happened to my rod....it is still in the investigation phase.
My ARP bolts held with no problem.
I'd also advise aginst stock rods for performance. I mutilated one into so many pieces it broke the block, scarred the piston walls, gouged the crank,etc... I got two or three dollars out of the block at the scrap yard. The pieces of the bearing I could find looked normal (not blued or excessively worn).
Other companies to consider are D.S.S., Central Coast? performance. I recommend a stud girdle for the mains; the block really isn't that beefy on the bottom.
Other companies to consider are D.S.S., Central Coast? performance. I recommend a stud girdle for the mains; the block really isn't that beefy on the bottom.
mustangdave said:
Yeah im planning on a girdle also again just not sure on what to get, Im gonna run it na from the start but may decide to put nitrous on in the future so thats the reasoning behind all forged, I really dont mind spending the extra money on the crank as long as i know it wont ever break.
giddyup306
Founding Member
- Oct 22, 2002
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rbohm said:
Agreed. A cast steel crank will do fine for most street cars. My Scat 347 cast steel crank is rated at like 8000 RPM and 850HP. It'll be making somewhere in the neighborhood of 450+hp NA and plus another 300 in spray and I have no whims about if the crank will be strong enough.
