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Where to get 289 parts?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pootiestang
  • Start date Start date Mar 31, 2004
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Pootiestang

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#1
  • Mar 31, 2004
  • #1
Hey guys, just drifting in from the 4.6 forums but I have some questions regarding my 1966 289 engine. The engine was originaly taken out of a Mustang back in the 70s and put into my late step father's CJ 2a.

I am currently in the process or restoring the jeep as it sat for close to 20 years. I would like to keep the 289 in it if possible or maybe replace it with another 289. I was wondering where I can find a good set of resources for this engine? I am looking to rebuild it this summer over the course of a month or so.

The engine turned but since the parts have been out I have seen a spot of rust on the crankshafter and the heads, intake, and block are covered in grease and dirt. Some rust spots. Is this engine worth salvaging? If not what are my alternatives?

Thank you!
 
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Pootiestang

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Just another question I though I would bring up. Because this engine is in a Jeep with the carb hurt me on inclineded situations? What are my options otherwise?

Thanks!
 
U

UNVMATT

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COLUMBUS
Mar 31, 2004
#3
  • Mar 31, 2004
  • #3
The 289 was last put in a Mustang in 1968..

Most 302 and 351W parts are interchangable. Summitracing.com, Jegs.com, Performance Automotive Warehouse, and most Classic Mustang sites have parts for 289 engines.
 

TireSmoknWindsr

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#4
  • Mar 31, 2004
  • #4
Pootiestang said:
Just another question I though I would bring up. Because this engine is in a Jeep with the carb hurt me on inclineded situations? What are my options otherwise?

Thanks!
Click to expand...


A holley truck avenger can cure that. Even the stock 2 barrel Ford carbs do very good at extreme angles offroading. I am going to run a quadrajunk on my F-150 until i can get a truck avenger and they are pretty decent on the trail. As for your question just look through a summit racing catalog or their site. a 289 is the same as a 302 just with a different bore/stroke and practically everything interchanges from intakes to fuelpumps.
 
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Pootiestang

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#5
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Thank you for the hasty replies! While I have the engine apart and do a whole rebuild is there anything I should be looking for or checking? What are some common problems I might find while running the 289? Should I make any modifications to anything whiles its apart? Thanks!
 

Edbert

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#6
  • Mar 31, 2004
  • #6
The biggest killer of 289 blocks is the overbore. Check the cylinder diameters with a micrometer, if they've been taken out 60 already then it may be done (unless it only needs a cleaning/honing). Word to the wise, if you need to bore your 289 do a 30, then you can always have it punched 30 again if needed for a later rebuild 20 years later.
 
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Pootiestang

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#7
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Edbert said:
The biggest killer of 289 blocks is the overbore. Check the cylinder diameters with a micrometer, if they've been taken out 60 already then it may be done (unless it only needs a cleaning/honing). Word to the wise, if you need to bore your 289 do a 30, then you can always have it punched 30 again if needed for a later rebuild 20 years later.
Click to expand...

Im sorry but I am not quite familiar with those terms. I hope to be taking my block to a Napa machine shop for any of the work needed to be done, maybe even the assembly if the cost isn't too high.

By bore I assume you are talking about the size of the cylinders. If they are untouched and I have them cleaned out to 30 (units?) more, then would I need bigger piston rings?
 

1967coupe

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#8
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They are refering to .030". If you were to get it bored out this is how much wider the diameter of the cylinder would be. This would require getting new pistons/rings.
 
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Pootiestang

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1967coupe said:
They are refering to .030". If you were to get it bored out this is how much wider the diameter of the cylinder would be. This would require getting new pistons/rings.
Click to expand...

ok thanks! How much is a micro meter going to run me? What was the original bore of the 289? Thanks

Would it better to throw a 302 with fuel injection instead of the 289? I would guess more parts, maybe even cheaper, and better performance on unlevel ground.
 

TireSmoknWindsr

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#10
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289 bore and stroke 4.000 2.870
 
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Pootiestang

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#11
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TireSmoknWindsr said:
289 bore and stroke 4.000 2.870
Click to expand...

so if it were 30 or 60 over then it would be a 4.030 or 4.060 right? Im assuming the stroke will be stock. Thanks for all the info guys.

Do any of yall have estimates on what it would cost to have the engine rebuilt, or replaced? Are their any companies that I can get a new or built 289 from? Thanks!
 
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GaPonyFarm

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#12
  • Mar 31, 2004
  • #12
Let the machine shop check the bore for you. If you're not familiar with the terms, you won't be able to accurately measure. Before committing to a rebuild, check Autozone, Advance auto, etc, for the price of a 302 longblock. All your 289 external parts will fit on it with no problem, and you may save a bunch of money, compared to the cost of a machine shop rebuild.
 

Edbert

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#13
  • Apr 1, 2004
  • #13
Thanks for filling in the terms fellas, you got the correct answers from them pootie. If your block has not been bored I would go with a 0.030, this will not require new pistons (assuming yours are in good condition) but will require new rings (which are part of ANY rebuild anyhow).

You can buy a shortblock from Autozone or Advanced for less than a quality machine shop will charge you to repair yours. That is not bad advice for low power low RPM applications, heck they even come with a warranty good nationwide! If you find out that your 289 block has in fact never been bored it becomes somewhat valuable to concours restorers. Not big bucks mind you but worth far more than salvage parts.

Regarding using a 5.0 with EFI, that is an excellent idea if your budget and skills will allow it. I expect it will cost you twice as much as the 289 rebuild when you try to retrofit all of the computer stuff and wiring harnesses and fuel pumps etc.
 
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broncobran68

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#14
  • Apr 1, 2004
  • #14
Don't even mess with a carb. EFI is way better and not that hard or costly to do. I have spent less than 300 on my EFI system so far and don't plan on going above 375. Entire EFI kits on Ebay have been going for 150. When you compare this to a good off road carb the price is about the same but the Truck Avenger wont perform near as well as EFI.
 
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