Where to position strut rod brackets?

I am restoring '68 Fastback. The car was a piece of rust with many missing parts. I need to weld front strut rod brackets. But I don't know the correct position. Can someone help me and give me correct dimensions side-to-side and front-to-back (i.e. how many inches from framerails and from lower radiator support)?
 
You can still install a strut in the front with the lower kit. Use the CCP lower kit and an SN95 spindle/strut and you are there. The only thing you would have to fab up is the camber caster plates. You could provably buy a set of Maximum Motor sports camber caster plates and use a set of Bilstein struts for a Fox body or an SN95 Mustang. You would provably spend about 1000 bux on everything instead of the Fatman fabs 2000+ cost.

Any reason you want to switch to a strut type front end ? The suspension geometry in the classic Mustangs front end is arguably better then the Fox/SN95 geometry.
 
the reason for struts - I have a donor SN95, wrecked car that I got for free. And since I plan to install IRS from Cobra, front struts and spindles from SN95 will give me the same wheel bolt pattern.
are there any spindles with SN95 bolt pattern that can be installed in classic stang with factory-style front suspension?
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but prett much all Ford 5 lug bot patterns are the same aren't they? A few to mention 60's-70's cougars, 60's-200x's mustangs, 70's-80'sGranadas, comets, falcons, trucks, etc.

The big thing is the correct offset backspacing when you talk about the wheel fitment. but lug spacing should be pretty much the same for the ford 5 lug pattern 5 x 4.5 if I am thinking straight.
 
Unless you want to go rack and pinion with this conversion as well, I'd say just use the donor car materials and the CPP lower arm subframe kit and you will be done up front. If you are going with R&P in the front then I understand buying one of those kits. You are going to do coil-overs right ?
 
Unless you want to go rack and pinion with this conversion as well, I'd say just use the donor car materials and the CPP lower arm subframe kit and you will be done up front. If you are going with R&P in the front then I understand buying one of those kits. You are going to do coil-overs right ?

now I am confused - AFAIK I cannot use SN95 spindles because they are for forward-mounted R&P, but CPP kit allows only for stock steering or rear-mounted R&P. Am I right?
 
Sorry, I forgot about that. You have to swap to R&P in order to make that work. There is a spindle adaptor bracket that lets you use the SN95 spindle with the factory arms but you have to have R&P for the position of the steering arms. I was thinking you could swap the spindle from right to left but now that I think about it I believe that it doesn't work because the angles are off.

bnickle should know for sure, I'll message him.
 
Fatman uses their own steering arms that bolt to the SN-95 or Fox spindles that allow you to run a rear steer rack, swapping the spindles from left to right will screw up all kinds of stuff in regards to the geometry.

if Fatman will sell you just the steering arms and the top strut mounts then you can still run the SN-95 donor car pieces.

BTW, the SN-95 and early mustangs both use the same 5x4.5" bolt circle so swapping the SN-95 front suspension just so you can use the wheels on it is not the way to go. any suspension designed for the early mustang will work fine and still allow you to use the SN-95 wheels, though you will likely need wheel spacers up front to compensate for the deeper offset wheels, this will hold true even if you the SN-95 front suspension as well.
 
I have the same issue on my 67. No one really answered the original question. Can anyone give some dimesions to locate the brackets properly (also note where you are measuring from)?

Thanks.